200 series - trouble spots versus 100 series

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Joined
Feb 14, 2016
Threads
11
Messages
55
Location
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Guys – quick question I am going to have to make a decision very quickly on a cruiser. I know the 200 series is nowhere near as popular as the 100 series for various reasons. I'm leaning towards the 200 due to having two little girls and the additional size and safety features. The reality is I'm not going to be doing any Wheeling, just a few trips so my remote into Canada.

Is there any reason I shouldn't consider a 2008 with 150,000 miles for the right price?

If I can get this for 24K it seems like a good bet I could on it for five years and sell with 200 K for around 19k

I have viewed plenty of forum threads and haven't seen any major issues, but I can't tell if that is based on the fact that the 200 series is just Newer. Is there anything like NAV or AHC issues that I should be aware of? I appreciate any help as I am forced to make a buying decision in the next few days
 
I have 1 of each. They are great trucks. I have enjoyed the extra 100 horses in the 200 series. I have not owned my 200 long enough to know if it is as dependable as my 100. I don't think you could go wrong with either truck.
150k miles on a well maintained 200 series truck should be no problem in my opinion.
 
I noticed you are up north. You might check for undercarriage rust. Especially the KDSS valves.
 
top (plastic part) of radiator cracked, water pump leaks and starter going out is the only items we've had pop up in the 200 section. I replaced my water pump @ 90,000 miles prior to a big road trip as a safety measure. One guy on here replaced his own start and I think his clock is around 150,000.miles (+-)....while those aren't cheap fixes they certainly are expense to note and throw into your cost of ownership. with any vehicle you'll have to drop some coin here and there.
 
Guys – quick question I am going to have to make a decision very quickly on a cruiser. I know the 200 series is nowhere near as popular as the 100 series for various reasons. I'm leaning towards the 200 due to having two little girls and the additional size and safety features. The reality is I'm not going to be doing any Wheeling, just a few trips so my remote into Canada.

Is there any reason I shouldn't consider a 2008 with 150,000 miles for the right price?

If I can get this for 24K it seems like a good bet I could on it for five years and sell with 200 K for around 19k

I have viewed plenty of forum threads and haven't seen any major issues, but I can't tell if that is based on the fact that the 200 series is just Newer. Is there anything like NAV or AHC issues that I should be aware of? I appreciate any help as I am forced to make a buying decision in the next few days

Having owned a 100 for 13 years (until it was 16 years old)...and now a 200, I really believe that the 200 is everything the 100 was in terms of capability...especially if you do NOT plan major mods.

FWIW...re cost: I bought my 2008 one year ago for $39k with only 48k miles on it. So for another $16k...you'd be getting 100k more miles before you even reach that 150k Cruiser. $16k more is nothing to sneeze at... I'm just mentioning it because there's a huge mileage difference there.
 
I own both trucks. For family use, I would get the 200. It has more room in the middle row for the kids. Both trucks are very comfortable and so far (I have only owned my 100 for 13 years and my 200 LX for less than 1) they are reliable. As was stated, expect to drop some cash on a few items given the mileage of either vehicle.
 
top (plastic part) of radiator cracked, water pump leaks and starter going out is the only items we've had pop up in the 200 section. I replaced my water pump @ 90,000 miles prior to a big road trip as a safety measure. One guy on here replaced his own start and I think his clock is around 150,000.miles (+-)....while those aren't cheap fixes they certainly are expense to note and throw into your cost of ownership. with any vehicle you'll have to drop some coin here and there.

I have a 100 and a 200. My experiences are exactly as described by Willy. My 200 has needed a radiator, water pump and a starter.
 
That's a great price. If I could find something like that in the Bay Area I would be ecstatic.
 
$25k sounds like a deal if it is in great shape. Go for it. Don't look back.

:-)
 
As having just bought one I can say the advances over the 100 is night and day. Also if you have kids in car seats I found the rear seats seem roomier and accommodate car seats much better. Make sure you get a PPI through your nearest Lexus dealer. The things they come up with are eye opening and proved a great bargaining chip but $25k is a good deal already. At 150k also check steering rack as I was looking at a higher mileage one that had a bad rack and evidently the engine has to come out to change the rack in a 200 is what the dealer told me even though I find it hard to imagine someone would engineer it that way.
 
Thanks boys - He is allowing me to get it inspected but I have to say I'm incredibly excited to pick it up tomorrow. It literally looks and drives like it has 50k not 150k
 
Thanks boys - He is allowing me to get it inspected but I have to say I'm incredibly excited to pick it up tomorrow. It literally looks and drives like it has 50k not 150k

Don't forget to get underneath looking for rust. Do you use a lot of salt in Minnesota?
 
$hitloads. I'll make sure I look. The good news is it looked immaculate today and he took it to the car wash. Based on the impeccable history I think he washed regularly and staved the winter salt. If not should I immediately do a sealant every 6 mo?
 
As having just bought one I can say the advances over the 100 is night and day. Also if you have kids in car seats I found the rear seats seem roomier and accommodate car seats much better. Make sure you get a PPI through your nearest Lexus dealer. The things they come up with are eye opening and proved a great bargaining chip but $25k is a good deal already. At 150k also check steering rack as I was looking at a higher mileage one that had a bad rack and evidently the engine has to come out to change the rack in a 200 is what the dealer told me even though I find it hard to imagine someone would engineer it that way.
Any Reason to do a PPI with Lexus vs my Toyota dealer?
 
$hitloads. I'll make sure I look. The good news is it looked immaculate today and he took it to the car wash. Based on the impeccable history I think he washed regularly and staved the winter salt. If not should I immediately do a sealant every 6 mo?

I'm no salt expert, as I'm in the SouthWest and basically rust free.
You might want to post photos here if you find a lot of rust.
There's rust...and then there's C-r-u-s-t...
 
Any Reason to do a PPI with Lexus vs my Toyota dealer?

Toyota would be fine, just realized you are porbably referring to a LC and not an LX. Reason I went to the Lexus dealers for a PPI for the two cars I looked at remotely was the owners were a lot more agreeable to take their cars to the dealers they normally went to.
 
Yeah I'm getting a bit of a sweetheart deal as he is giving me a 3 day out. I doubt I will find anything but it's nice peace of mind. I doubt I could find one in this condition anywhere in the next year. It looks new. I'm hoping to get another 100k miles out of it. Some trepidation around the 5.7 being aluminum but the overengineering hopefully will show its true colors as usual here.
 
hope it works out for you - you're gonna love that truck
 

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