200 Series Remote Start (2 Viewers)

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Interesting update. I had drone mobile installed on my 2021 HE and was told they were going to have to research how to tie into the trunk release because it is different than the 2020 HE I had before. They will figure it out and then wire it up soon. They also did not need to add a Mercury hood switch like last time. It turns out that there is an integrated one from the factory in the actual hood latch now. I started looking into it more and the ODB port is in a different location on the 2021 compared to 2020. It’s tucked up on the far left hand side of drivers area. Where on a 2020 it was towards the right. Other differences it almost feels like the stock head unit runs a bit faster, but it is purely subjective and I cannot compare it with my totaled 2020.
Totaled 2020? Any picture?
 
Totaled 2020? Any picture?

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Ouch, hope everyone is okay! That’s a lot of air bags!
 
Thankfully we were fine. Some lady was drunk and ran a stop sign going 40ish. Didn’t slow down before she hit us with a Ford Escape. I was in car with wife and 3 kids. Luckily no major injuries and my wife only had a couple small bruises on her leg. These are safe vehicles.
 
I’m surprised that insurance totaled it. The repair estimates must’ve been astronomical.
 
I’m surprised that insurance totaled it. The repair estimates must’ve been astronomical.
The whole car frame actually bent/shifted over towards the drivers side. The front wheel was pushed in and the motor was tipped toward the drivers side. The moon roof was sitting uneven and sticking up on one side, suggesting more structural damage. The total repair cost was roughly 62K, added to depreciated value of vehicle and they ultimately totaled it. I followed the insurance auction and is sold for roughly 36K.
 
Random input, but the real reason to avoid always remote starting is your engine runs fairly rich when first started. It's very common to end up with fuel diluted oil when you start an engine and let it warm up on its own. You're better off starting it, letting it idle for 30-40 seconds, then driving easy until the engine is warmed up. If the intent of remote start is to run it at idle until the motor/heat/hvac is warm, not a great thing to do long-term.
 
Random input, but the real reason to avoid always remote starting is your engine runs fairly rich when first started. It's very common to end up with fuel diluted oil when you start an engine and let it warm up on its own. You're better off starting it, letting it idle for 30-40 seconds, then driving easy until the engine is warmed up. If the intent of remote start is to run it at idle until the motor/heat/hvac is warm, not a great thing to do long-term.
Is this really a thing to look out for? If so, it's the first I've heard of it.

It's hard for me to discern driving easy vs. idling IMO. Please elaborate if it's legitimate.
 
Back in the days of yore, when carburetors ruled the land, a choke plate partially covered the throttle inlet during startup to richen the mixture and keep the engine running until it warmed up. The choke plate was usually connected via a linkage system to a bi-metallic coiled spring that uncoiled when warm and pulled the choke plate open. Because the mixture was so rich there were concerns that a sticking choke would cause too much fuel to enter the cylinders, washing the oil off the rings and scoring the walls.

When fuel injection came along, it was touted as always supplying the correct fuel/air ratio - even to a cold engine - and the world was instructed to not worry about washing the cylinder walls down with gas.

Marketing hype? Dunno.

But I have slept better ever since. :rofl:
 
Is this really a thing to look out for? If so, it's the first I've heard of it.

It's hard for me to discern driving easy vs. idling IMO. Please elaborate if it's legitimate.
Long story short, yes it is definitely a thing. It has to do with getting the cat up to temp asap. Idling until the engine is to temp takes a lot longer than driving it until it’s up to temp. The oil forum folks notice a very direct correlation between fuel dilution and letting a car warm up on its own.

Now does it cause measurable intention wear, or is the wear so minimal that you’re looking at issues with 550k miles instead of 575k, who knows. But the people doing lab oil analysis claim you’re far better off letting the motor idle for 30-40 seconds then driving tame until the engine is to temp.
 
Long story short, yes it is definitely a thing. It has to do with getting the cat up to temp asap. Idling until the engine is to temp takes a lot longer than driving it until it’s up to temp. The oil forum folks notice a very direct correlation between fuel dilution and letting a car warm up on its own.

Now does it cause measurable intention wear, or is the wear so minimal that you’re looking at issues with 550k miles instead of 575k, who knows. But the people doing lab oil analysis claim you’re far better off letting the motor idle for 30-40 seconds then driving tame until the engine is to temp.
I'll have to take your word for it. My usual AM commute is either:

A- remote start and let idle for 2-5 min, then drive 60mph shortly after leaving garage

OR

B- start, let idle for 15-30 seconds, then drive 60mph shortly after leaving garage

Not a lot of leeway for tame driving in my circumstance, so it looks like I will definitely be testing the tolerances and longevity of this platform and fuel/oil dilution.
 

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