2.5" lift what all do I need?

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I just think we need to be careful as to what define as "half-assing it".

For a mainly unloaded truck...somebody who wants to keep it near-stock though have extra ground clearance and run a bigger tire...it costs almost nothing to accomplish it and it'd not be "half-assed".

*Crank T-bars
*Add 50mm rear spacer
*Do a diff-drop
*allignment

That setup on that kind a 100 for that kind of use is 100% perfect. Near factory ride...still RTI's at 563 and for a low cost.
 
I think the lift would be nice, is the diff drop pretty important?

My wifes 100 series has a the super charger and now sports 285 75 16 tires down from the 305s.

Rob
 
This thread states 2.5 inches...then absolutely the diff drop is needed. At 1.5-ish...nope...though I would do it even then.
 
Well hello everyone. I appreciate all the advice. Sorry to say thank you so late.

I think I will try the makeshift lift to accommodate a slightly larger tire. I'm just looking for a beefier stance first. I like the idea of doing this for some time then putting an actually lift on it.

Thanks again.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
I just think we need to be careful as to what define as "half-assing it".

For a mainly unloaded truck...somebody who wants to keep it near-stock though have extra ground clearance and run a bigger tire...it costs almost nothing to accomplish it and it'd not be "half-assed".

*Crank T-bars
*Add 50mm rear spacer
*Do a diff-drop
*allignment

That setup on that kind a 100 for that kind of use is 100% perfect. Near factory ride...still RTI's at 563 and for a low cost.

Hi, with this set up do you know if it will fit a 315/75/16 tires.
Thanks
 
We need this as a moticon Woody! Even mobetta with a little movement :D
merry-go-round-70621.webp
 
What is the most comprehensive thread for installing slees 2.5" OME kit with diff drop? Also at some point I will add bumpers but not immediately, so I am thinking of installing the heavy kit. Will I hate the ride until I add the bumpers?
 
So the only way to do this without paying for it twice is to buy bumpers and lift at the same time?
 
Run the cheap lift, spacers and crank t-bars until you get the bumpers. :meh: I'm running 295's like this now.
 
I just think we need to be careful as to what define as "half-assing it".

For a mainly unloaded truck...somebody who wants to keep it near-stock though have extra ground clearance and run a bigger tire...it costs almost nothing to accomplish it and it'd not be "half-assed".

*Crank T-bars
*Add 50mm rear spacer
*Do a diff-drop
*allignment

That setup on that kind a 100 for that kind of use is 100% perfect. Near factory ride...still RTI's at 563 and for a low cost.

Is it possible to "part way" a lift like this if it has AHC?
 
Thanks nnnnnate

I've got a 98 LX470 with 176k I bought for $7700 2 months ago from a used car dealer. They had no maintenance records, so I've got some preventative maintenance ahead of me (90k service and change all fluids). My AHC has a pretty bouncy ride in comfort setting, but more tolerable in sport. My ultimate goal is to run 35"s and fully remove the AHC due to what I've read about the globes going bad over time. However, I don't want to spend all that money this year, so baby steps are preferable.

From what I've read, including the link you posted, I'm thinking of doing the following for "stage one":
Install a spacer on the rear springs (size recommendation?)
Flush the AHC system and adjust the sensors
Install slee diff drop
Adjust torque rods
And while I've got this stuff apart I'll change my steering rack (current one leaking badly) and front brakes.
Possibly do a 1" body lift at the same time if I'm close to 35"s after the above work is done.

I am aware the front diff is a weak point, and if the above goes well, that will be addressed in "stage two".

Does this plan make sense, or am I missing something?
 
I can't comment on your plan as I am totally content with my stock height and haven't looked into lifts. However, for a couple details...

I think a 30mm coil spacer for the rear is pretty common.

For the AHC flush it'll take about a can and a half of fluid. I bought mine from Kurt at @cruiseroutfit. I did it with a buddy and between the two of us we used just under 3 cans. (I got my coil spacers from him as well.)

I don't know about the other stuff. If you search for it here though you'll find it. Good luck.
 
Thanks nnnnnate

I've got a 98 LX470 with 176k I bought for $7700 2 months ago from a used car dealer. They had no maintenance records, so I've got some preventative maintenance ahead of me (90k service and change all fluids). My AHC has a pretty bouncy ride in comfort setting, but more tolerable in sport. My ultimate goal is to run 35"s and fully remove the AHC due to what I've read about the globes going bad over time. However, I don't want to spend all that money this year, so baby steps are preferable.

From what I've read, including the link you posted, I'm thinking of doing the following for "stage one":
Install a spacer on the rear springs (size recommendation?)
Flush the AHC system and adjust the sensors
Install slee diff drop
Adjust torque rods
And while I've got this stuff apart I'll change my steering rack (current one leaking badly) and front brakes.
Possibly do a 1" body lift at the same time if I'm close to 35"s after the above work is done.

I am aware the front diff is a weak point, and if the above goes well, that will be addressed in "stage two".

Does this plan make sense, or am I missing something?

Go to the Lexus drivers website and set up a profile with your vin and you'll get everything that was done at a Lexus dealer. I just picked up a 98 with 195k miles for $7300 and found the previous owners did EVERYTHING. Bonus!
 
Thanks mattafact,
Just signed up for Lexus drivers. While there is a 40k gap, I did find the 90k service was done at 133, so I needn't worry about that for another 50k miles! That helps speed up the other steps. I'll keep searching for what others have done to lift their AHC rigs before they gutted the system.
 

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