1st Land Cruiser

[cyberfalco]

I got to use my new brass hammer and drift

 

[fountainhead]

For some reason I was thinking that grinding was only required with 5.29 gear sets. Guess not.

 

[cyberfalco]

So probably thinking back on it I may have been able to pry up on it while someone else hit the back of the pin with the drift. I don't know. It just didn't seem like it was going to come out. The previous owners did not install them himself but he says he has a c clip rear. Maybe the shop he took it to knows a trick. It seems a lot of people on this forum seem to think that with 4.88 you will most likely have to grind the gears a little.

 

[Bossman]

I remember Bomars being a fight but we did not have to grind them. But, I've slept since then...

 

[cyberfalco]

I can see where you could get it in by banging on it. I just couldn't think of a way to get it out.

 

[Bomar]

I remember Bomars being a fight but we did not have to grind them. But, I've slept since then...

I used that one for the front I think. The rear had been ground..

 

[cyberfalco]

Rear axle is complete minus fluid. Front third member is in. I picked up the rest of my front brake parts today and cleaned the remaining front axle parts. Everything just needs to be lubed and installed in the front axle. I cut up the front dust shields just leaving the center intact for proper hub spacing.

Waiting to pick up some small parts tomorrow. A wheel stud, some lock-out studs, and a misc bolt for one of the plates that hold the knuckle ball wiper gaskets on.

Getting so close to bleeding the brakes and putting the wheels back on.

 

[cyberfalco]

Drivers side is buttoned up and passenger side spindle is on. I had to stop and be a web admin so hope to finish tomorrow.

 

[cyberfalco]

Front end is finished and the brakes are bled. One issue I ran into when bolting the rear drive shaft to the rear third member. The pinion flange is smaller than the old third member. Can I just swap the flanges or do I need to get a new pinion nut and stuff?

 

[Bossman]

Should be able to just swap the pinion flange. Just get a feel for the preload b4 you back the nut off, try to bring it back to the same point and re-stake if with a punch.

 

[cyberfalco]

Too bad I didn't notice it earlier I have an open carrier here with 4.88 gears. I could have used that one and installed the Aussie in it. If I feel industrious I may still do that.

 

[cyberfalco]

So there were some cruisers that had smaller flanges on one drive shaft?

 

[Bomar]

40s I think...or atleast eariler. Like earlier 60s and 40s.

 

[cyberfalco]

Took Sunday off from working on the cruiser.

Today I swapped the pinion flanges and got it all back together. Kind of nervous about tightening it too far. I am going to take the wheels off and see if it feels too tight again. I can't quite tell. Maybe it just feels odd because of the Aussie locker. Well if I ruin the gears I have another carrier that is open with 4.88 gears in it.

The brakes still need more bleeding and they are pulsing when stopping. Makes me wonder if maybe the bearing races are not seated all the way or the rotors are not flat on the hubs. I am sure I checked to make sure the races had bottomed all the way into their seats. I am going to bleed the brakes some more tomorrow to get them solid and spin the rotors without the wheels on to see if they are moving in back and forth in the calipers.

New-to-me shocks all the way around now. One if the rear shocks was blown out. I wouldn't rise to the occasion when fully compressed.

The two rear seat heater hoses are leaking. The hose clamps completely rusted away.

Checked out the fuel gauge sender in the tank. It was stuck all the way down. I wiggled it and it freed up and floated when I stuck it back in but the fuel gauge still reads empty. So I will check the resistance at the sender and the voltage coming from the gauge tomorrow.

 

[Bomar]

Take rear heater out. You can cap it off by motor.

 

[cyberfalco]

Take rear heater out. You can cap it off by motor.

This will most likely happen and be added to the parts I may keep or just resell.

 

[cyberfalco]

So I disconnected the vacuum advance because of a studder while accelerating. That cleared that up. The brakes have a bad pulsation. Both rotors have runout. The rotors are new. I guess I need to take them off and check the hub surface really good.

 

[cyberfalco]

Oh, I drove it around a few miles and the fuel gauge seems to be working now.

 

[Bomar]

I hate to say it....it almost pays to get new rotors turned to be sure

 

[cyberfalco]

I hate to say it....it almost pays to get new rotors turned to be sure

Yeah. I have the old ones that I am going to get checked tomorrow to see if they can be turned. In te meantime I am going to pull the new rotors.