1HDT w. 3" exhaust - incredible results

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Ok lets start ..

1. Pyro = Pyrometer = gauge that reads EGT ( exhaust gas temp ) that it's a pretty acfcuracy reading of the temp on your pistons ..

2. Max Safe temp on your pistons 1250 ºF ( more than that= melted pistons )

3. Proper fuel / aire ratio keep estequiometric mix 14.5:1 it means yuu can't goo up more far from 1250 ºF at any driving condition ..

4. Usually, black smoke in your exhaust means more diesel in the chamber than the engine can burn ..

5. Usually more boost with proper amunt of diesel means more power .. you compensate fuel with boost ( that means more air =0 Oxigen in the chamber )

6. More than 14 PSI usually iin our Toy aplication require intercooler, and you must need to check the turbo map to see when ( at which point ) your turbo goes out of the performance islands.

7. More boost = more compresed air = more heat = less Oxigen
 
Ok lets start ..

1. Pyro = Pyrometer = gauge that reads EGT ( exhaust gas temp ) that it's a pretty acfcuracy reading of the temp on your pistons ..

2. Max Safe temp on your pistons 1250 ºF ( more than that= melted pistons )

3. Proper fuel / aire ratio keep estequiometric mix 14.5:1 it means yuu can't goo up more far from 1250 ºF at any driving condition ..

4. Usually, black smoke in your exhaust means more diesel in the chamber than the engine can burn ..

5. Usually more boost with proper amunt of diesel means more power .. you compensate fuel with boost ( that means more air =0 Oxigen in the chamber )

6. More than 14 PSI usually iin our Toy aplication require intercooler, and you must need to check the turbo map to see when ( at which point ) your turbo goes out of the performance islands.

7. More boost = more compresed air = more heat = less Oxigen

@thanks for all da information, thats help me a lot, hehe :popcorn:
and my toy got intercooler too, as i now boost up at 1.5 or 1.6bar

@then with the psi i got, but the engine show black smoke too, thats mean is more fuel supplied, so i try to reduce little by little?? because i dont have a pyrometer

@i understand pyrometer or EGT thats the sensor weld on down pipe there rite?\

@so how about the air fuel ratio meter?? how it work, and related in engine which part which mean which part will plug and used???

p.s my english no good very embrassing :cheers:

AUTOMETER AIR FUEL RATIO METER (SILVER) • Size: 2 1/16" (52.4mm), Type: Digital, Range: Lean - Rich • Will work with most factory narrow-band O2 sensors. • LED digital display. • Will not work with Wide Band O2 sensors, please check your application. • Gauge has no provision for lighting.

@here da info and pics, is this one suit my engine?? 12H-T, and what i need after i bought this meter?? find an aftermarket narrow-band O2 sensor and plug at where?? air and fuel ratio, so how about the fuel?? they stated that Gauge has no provision for lighting, then what mean of this?? cant see the gauge at night or cant see the meter moving??
i last time thought that air fuel ratio meter for petrol car, thats why i didnt notice and no get more information about this meter,
thanks for who helping me :)
and what is wide band what is narrow band?
which suit me?

spend u beer if i could,:beer::beer::beer:
autometer air fuel meter.webp
afmeter on.webp
 
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@then with the psi i got, but the engine show black smoke too, thats mean is more fuel supplied, so i try to reduce little by little?? because i dont have a pyrometer

get a pyro installed first .. I prefer it preturbo, means in the exhaust manifold.

here is mine ..

pyrosender.jpg


After instalation, try a test ride .. and check your EGT and let us know.
 
Greg, thanks for the link on exhaust diameter. Just read through the whole thing. Very interesting. From that thread, I'd have to conclude that the power gains I've seen are coming from the removal of a significant restriction in exhaust gas flow, probably either a combination of the crimp, an unfound obstruction, and possibly tubing a bit too small for the engine. John at Ateb did say that he had used 2.75" tubing in Malaysia and that the power increase to 3" was no greater, but he uses 3" here because of sourcing issues. So in summary there is an optimal point for this engine and I think I've found it.

I drove it all day yesterday and I'm still amazed at the difference. Like I said I should have done this long ago!

Great contributions to this thread from all. It's been very informative and interesting.

I'm already waffling but now I'm starting to think about intercooling again....
 
@so how about the air fuel ratio meter?? how it work, and related in engine which part which mean which part will plug and used???

p.s my english no good very embrassing :cheers:

AUTOMETER AIR FUEL RATIO METER (SILVER) • Size: 2 1/16" (52.4mm), Type: Digital, Range: Lean - Rich • Will work with most factory narrow-band O2 sensors. • LED digital display. • Will not work with Wide Band O2 sensors, please check your application. • Gauge has no provision for lighting.

@here da info and pics, is this one suit my engine?? 12H-T, and what i need after i bought this meter?? find an aftermarket narrow-band O2 sensor and plug at where?? air and fuel ratio, so how about the fuel?? they stated that Gauge has no provision for lighting, then what mean of this?? cant see the gauge at night or cant see the meter moving??
i last time thought that air fuel ratio meter for petrol car, thats why i didnt notice and no get more information about this meter,
thanks for who helping me :)
and what is wide band what is narrow band?
which suit me?

spend u beer if i could,:beer::beer::beer:

I don't think an air/fuel meter is any use on a diesel.
You'll be blowing black smoke before you get anywhere near 14.5:1 and the EGT gauge will let you know when your temperatures are nearing the danger levels.

I also wonder if a lambda probe will still work when it's covered in diesel soot.
 
get a pyro installed first .. I prefer it preturbo, means in the exhaust manifold.

here is mine ..

pyrosender.jpg


After instalation, try a test ride .. and check your EGT and let us know.

hey, thanks for the pics man, help me too :)

@yeap thats place i modify with an external wastegate already, i will took a pics see which place more suit, i think end of the year only can buy one, around us$170 ? does the EGT meter come with sensor? if non sensor how to find a aftermarket?
 
I don't think an air/fuel meter is any use on a diesel.
You'll be blowing black smoke before you get anywhere near 14.5:1 and the EGT gauge will let you know when your temperatures are nearing the danger levels.

I also wonder if a lambda probe will still work when it's covered in diesel soot.


ohh thanks mean slowly adjust manually, step gas and have a look on exhaust rite? ok great. i will try this next 2 week, and i boost to 1.5bar how we know the black smoke rate if we test step gas only, or we need to drive out and have a spin..

and a air/fuel ratio meter cant use in diesal engine?
 
EGT's will be your limiting factor. You will be shocked how quickly temps can get out of control even on a fully stock engine if the fuel is turned up too far.
 
EGT's will be your limiting factor. You will be shocked how quickly temps can get out of control even on a fully stock engine if the fuel is turned up too far.


what mean by the EGT will limiting factor??

is that a good thing or bad thing?
and what mean of fuel is turned up too far???

thanks man :):cheers:
 
Ok lets start ..

1. Pyro = Pyrometer = gauge that reads EGT ( exhaust gas temp ) that it's a pretty acfcuracy reading of the temp on your pistons ..

2. Max Safe temp on your pistons 1250 ºF ( more than that= melted pistons )

3. Proper fuel / aire ratio keep estequiometric mix 14.5:1 it means yuu can't goo up more far from 1250 ºF at any driving condition ..

4. Usually, black smoke in your exhaust means more diesel in the chamber than the engine can burn ..

5. Usually more boost with proper amunt of diesel means more power .. you compensate fuel with boost ( that means more air =0 Oxigen in the chamber )

6. More than 14 PSI usually iin our Toy aplication require intercooler, and you must need to check the turbo map to see when ( at which point ) your turbo goes out of the performance islands.

7. More boost = more compresed air = more heat = less Oxigen


now yeap, which i said that my engine is a lot smoke, thats because pick up that time, when boost reached, the smoke are very less, this mean my engine is less fuel supplied rite?, i say a lot of smoke is be4 boost reach,
example i boost 1.5bar, be4 that around 0.x bar the smoke is a lot, but then when final boost reach in 2nd or 3rd gear, the smoke are less, thats why be4 i say i need to modify fuel pump
 
Any chance of you taking a picture from under the hood of the connecting flange at the turbo elbow? I'm curious whether they sort of cheated there and welded to the 2.5" part that is already attached to that flange or if they actually cut it off flush, bored out the hole in the flange to 3" and went from there...

Hey martin, also interested in this. I went to the shop beside wendys and they figure about 300 bucks from the down pipe back, I supply the muffler. They said if I source the flange piece and flex piece it would be antoher $50 to come right frome the turbo. Hard to tell from your pic what they did. Interesting read.:cool:
 
hey, thanks for the pics man, help me too :)

@yeap thats place i modify with an external wastegate already, i will took a pics see which place more suit, i think end of the year only can buy one, around us$170 ? does the EGT meter come with sensor? if non sensor how to find a aftermarket?

I prefeer buy one ( pyro ) with the sender unit included as a kit .. it make much more simple the instalation.
 
I prefeer buy one ( pyro ) with the sender unit included as a kit .. it make much more simple the instalation.

yeap~ thanks man,
so a petrol engine is that same?? because my fren got one on his last time CELICA. can i take it out and put in my exhaust and the meter show same thing?? rite?:cheers:
 
If you can really get a 3" system installed for 400 ish bucks you are doing very well...if you go ahead let us know the final cost. I spent a LOT more than that.
 
yeap~ thanks man,
so a petrol engine is that same?? because my fren got one on his last time CELICA. can i take it out and put in my exhaust and the meter show same thing?? rite?:cheers:

Yes an EGT gauge off a petrol motor is exactly the same.
 
Hey martin, also interested in this. I went to the shop beside wendys and they figure about 300 bucks from the down pipe back, I supply the muffler. They said if I source the flange piece and flex piece it would be antoher $50 to come right frome the turbo. Hard to tell from your pic what they did. Interesting read.:cool:

Ya.. they did the exhaust on my 13B-T converted BJ 70 and they mashed the 2.5" tubing into 1.5" at best in the curves. Not doing that on my 80.

Smooth mandrel bent elbows in all the curves when I do my 80 exhaust.

S
 
That is about the same as a high quality analog unit. It's just personal preference. I'm really happy with my ISS Pro guages which are on the A-pillar.
 

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