1HDT w. 3" exhaust - incredible results

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I modded and "de-crimped" the exhaust on a friends 80 and there was not much gain, if any. I don't believe the torque restriction story, all toyota diesels are starved for fuel before anything else.
 
Hi Martin.

Do you have an EGT gauge?
That'd tell an interesting tale.
 
2H it's a IDI and the 12H-T it's a DI engine .. huge diference .. Anycase I was so scary to put 27 psi in any toyota engine with stock internals ..

3B modify with ar48 turbo, last time, the engine was screwup wuahaha stock with 15psi without cooler. one day i drive it, suddenly the car no sound and brake, then i know the engine was blown up, silent die:whoops::whoops:

then change engine to 12H-T stock internal with boost 1.9bar the result was scary hahaha, but as i know the boost until 1.5 or 1.6 was best and same as 1.9 bar different is 1.9bar that turbo sound was scary :P
if 12H-T boosted with stock internal was great, if 1HJ or 1HD those engine mostly will got problem, mostly is the blown head
 
To get that big an increase, there must have been something badly wrong with your old exhaust.
Aeroturbines don't work, it's not that.

Do you run a boost gauge? If so has there been an increase with the bigger pipe?

what i know the turbo outlet is about 2inch, so make the exhaust pipe 2.5 inch to middle, then 3inch till end. this which i found out very great pick up power and end power as well:cheers:
 
You're only going to get an improvement if your current system is really restrictive.
Measure the backpressure after the turbo and see what it is.
Anything less is guesswork.

yeap agree. make a exhaust to prevent backpressure, for turbo engine no back pressure was best, but due to stree using, need those midbox and other thing, those also will cause backpressure
so in best result for offroad is 2.5inch front till mid, and 3inch mid till rear, just put a 3inch exhaust box, or muffler:cheers:
 
What about the turbo seal? I thought that exceeding 13 PSI would blow the seal (causing oil to be pumped into the intake manifold)

yeah its stock internal and everything, sure is best if got a intercooler, u mean turbo seal is which one?? never head any big problem, just scare overhead if non intercooler, long period of this may cause blown head
 
IDI = indirect injection; DI (which I think you transposed) is direct injection diesel engine.
 
IDI = indirect injection; DI (which I think you transposed) is direct injection diesel engine.

:beer:
thanks for da information, because i not so familiar or so detail with my engine, thanks
now i scratching my head about modification about the fuel pump, got any race spec to modify inside or change part inside the fuel pump? need for drag racing or street race :cheers:
 
I'd move!

Don't mention it, I could end up on your doorstep!!! Seriously, the thought often crosses my mind... Trouble is, everything is so expensive out west it's unreal!

Aluminized pipes can last for a long time. If you don't have the cash to pony up for SS, you can paint your exhaust with high heat paint each year.

That paint lasts only three months... Tried it last time I went to the muffler shop! So now I'm definitely going with SS, even if it means making it myself. Maybe a trip to the Ottawa area is in order ;)

Also living in salt belt you should be having your truck oiled each year.

Actually, I had one of those 'Metropolitan Oil Treatments' done on my old BJ60, it washed away in three onths. OK, it probably still protected the inside of the doors OK. Even the thick Shell oil treatment that cost $120 a pail didn't make it past winter. It's a real struggle...
 
mean direct injection is more power full?? now i still finding information about modify the fuel pump, to race spec or more fuel will inject to engine and bit higher RPM power

More fuel will give you more power throughout the whole rev range. But too much can melt your pistons or blow black smoke.
It's a good idea to get an EGT gauge (if you haven't already) so you can monitor what's going on.

Yes direct injection is more efficient and more powerful. But it's also noisier than IDI, kind of a grumbling sound.
 
More fuel will give you more power throughout the whole rev range. But too much can melt your pistons or blow black smoke.
It's a good idea to get an EGT gauge (if you haven't already) so you can monitor what's going on.

Yes direct injection is more efficient and more powerful. But it's also noisier than IDI, kind of a grumbling sound.

hehehe soon i'll get EGT, not now.
now the engine also blow a lot of black smoke, but still not efficiency, i think need modify it, thats why finding part or other thing to replace inside fuel pump to give more fuel to engine, i try the best for da engine, if piston melted, i think i gonna change to petrol engine :P

hey share with u guys, a 80series landcruiser, with 12valve 1HD-T the engine with original turbo those is that call 1HD-T?
the car with that engine, modify drag race make 13sec on 0-400m
modify turbo, externalwastegate, cooler, and other stuff
 
More fuel will give you more power throughout the whole rev range. But too much can melt your pistons or blow black smoke.
It's a good idea to get an EGT gauge (if you haven't already) so you can monitor what's going on.

Yes direct injection is more efficient and more powerful. But it's also noisier than IDI, kind of a grumbling sound.

u know anything to modify to give more fuel?? standard with adjust the timing of fuel pump is not enuff for me, hope to get more
 
hehehe soon i'll get EGT, not now.

too bad ..

now the engine also blow a lot of black smoke

Probably it means you have plenty fuel and not eouight air to burn it and produce power ..

, but still not efficiency

I thought you need to read plenty about diesel and turbo engines.. this statemnt confirm my teory that you have not eought aire right now to burn all diesel that you have in the chamber ..

Boost gauge, Pyro gauge and air fuel meter are a must to proper adjust your engine at " hight " performance ..
 
too bad ..



Probably it means you have plenty fuel and not eouight air to burn it and produce power ..



I thought you need to read plenty about diesel and turbo engines.. this statemnt confirm my teory that you have not eought aire right now to burn all diesel that you have in the chamber ..

Boost gauge, Pyro gauge and air fuel meter are a must to proper adjust your engine at " hight " performance ..

thanks you for correct me alot of thing, but i boost the turbo to 1.9bar the power didnt shw any good, then how and i need to correct this thing?i close more fuel pump, its no more power, i think the fuel pump of my engine is maximized due to standard, thats why need to upgrade to race spec or other may give more oil per second, i think some said that how many drop per how long time something like that
 
too bad ..



Probably it means you have plenty fuel and not eouight air to burn it and produce power ..



I thought you need to read plenty about diesel and turbo engines.. this statemnt confirm my teory that you have not eought aire right now to burn all diesel that you have in the chamber ..

Boost gauge, Pyro gauge and air fuel meter are a must to proper adjust your engine at " hight " performance ..


as u can see, one is fuel one is air, so fuel is fuel pump. then the air is how?? turbo?
 
as u can see, one is fuel one is air, so fuel is fuel pump. then the air is how?? turbo?


then u mean the air fuel meter, is it air fuel ratio meter??i thought that only for petrol car, diesal suit too?
pyro meter? pyro is that EGT???
 
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