I certainly will when I get to it. Might be a little while, currently setting up my shop.
I've done some basic test fitting, it should just be a matter of modifying the upper bracket.
1HDT alternator output
- Thread starter tweeek
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I've done some basic test fitting, it should just be a matter of modifying the upper bracket.
So I just measured a couple of things. With ground on a bolt to the engine block, all loads that could be turned off, turned off:
- 13.7-8 at both positive battery terminals
- 14.1 at the alternator positive post
This would indicate that I have a resistance somewhere, right? I also measured with ground at the battery posts and got the same results.
- 13.7-8 at both positive battery terminals
- 14.1 at the alternator positive post
This would indicate that I have a resistance somewhere, right? I also measured with ground at the battery posts and got the same results.
What is the condition of your batteries? Have you tested the standing voltage of each battery with it disconnected from the vehicle?
Thanks, and I'm in no rush either.
Unless I am doing a poor job of measuring things, I found a 0.4V drop between alternator positive and the other end of the wire connected to it.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
13.8 is absolute minimum, sustained voltage under that will shorten battery life as they will never be fully charged, 14.4 -14.7 are good numbers, again go over this for long periods of time and battery will be overcharged.
If you are running battery technology that can use the higher voltage then fit a manual voltage regulator, you can adjust to suit your particular batteries.
Regards
Dave
If you are running battery technology that can use the higher voltage then fit a manual voltage regulator, you can adjust to suit your particular batteries.
Regards
Dave
Do you have any info on how to do this? I've seen some nice looking voltage regulators (sterling power) but I'm not clear on how to adapt them to an alternator that is internally regulated.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Your HDJ 81 has a physical internal regulator but is not machine sensed, it is voltage sensed, that is it adjusts output according the reference direct from the battery terminal.
I use wet cell marine batteries so the typical 14.4v is fine for my use.
As the 80 uses a battery sense cable IIRC you put an adjustable resistor in that cable, then you use a decent MM and set your voltage.
The alternator will continue to charge to the voltage you set. I can't see any reason for me to use one in the near future however, it may help someone who has a particular need.
Here is a typical example, there are some cheaper 'inline' versions that are a lot cheaper.
STARTERS AND ALTERNATORS
Regards
Dave
I use wet cell marine batteries so the typical 14.4v is fine for my use.
As the 80 uses a battery sense cable IIRC you put an adjustable resistor in that cable, then you use a decent MM and set your voltage.
The alternator will continue to charge to the voltage you set. I can't see any reason for me to use one in the near future however, it may help someone who has a particular need.
Here is a typical example, there are some cheaper 'inline' versions that are a lot cheaper.
STARTERS AND ALTERNATORS
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Check fusible links are clean and good, the alternator has a battery sense wire, if that is damaged the alternator will be regulating output incorrectly.
At your own risk, locate the sense wire (not the heavy B+), and with the engine running and MM connected to the battery disconnect the sense cable, the voltage will (should) jump up to around 17v.
That will confirm your VR is up to snuff. I would clean every connection, and as a quick test put a jump lead from clean part of engine block to battery negative, watch what happend to the MM.
Regards
Dave
Thanks, that is super helpful. I will check.
However, regarding the voltage drop from the positive output on the alternator to the other end of the wire, that has to be corrosion on the screw terminal itself, no?
Disconnect the battery, test ohms between the battery terminal and the alternator. It should be less than 1 ohm.
I don't think testing ohms for a high current cable is a a great test. Even if you have a single strand of copper connecting the two points, you will get 0 ohms. Voltage drop is the way to go.
You're totally right. A .4 volt drop is only like .1 ohms, too low to really measure.
It's early still.
I cleaned up the terminal and post on the alternator: no effect.
Best option is to replace the alternator - the stock 80s alternator is kind of weak. Direct replacement is from Altezza part number 27060-70490. 120AMPS
But if you want real output and energy go with Valeo 021 903 026L they usually comes with VW Tuareg - 180AMPs output but need to work on it to get it fit.
But if you want real output and energy go with Valeo 021 903 026L they usually comes with VW Tuareg - 180AMPs output but need to work on it to get it fit.
That's drop in for an 1994 HDJ81 with the 1HDT?
I don't think alternator output is my issue.
Yes it is bit bigger, but straight bolt on. Even the connector is the same.
It looks like you'll have to swap the pulley off your current alternator.
In my case I used custom machined pulley with smaller diameter. It gives me stable high output on idling.
Ghostrider I
I wear many "heads" as I have many vehicles.
Damn, that is impressive that it fired up with that low of voltage. Interesting that you mentioned that you have a high amp alternator, I have been wanting to upgrade to that but many say that you should up the batteries. What is the best way??
