1HD-FT. The Story of an Engine That Wasn't Allowed to Breathe

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Nice to see a civil honest conversation, thank you both…. Two different approaches same problem….

I have done some searching and learned a little on the turbo issue, some of the newer holset designs look good.. the he221cw that is fitted to the 4.5 Cummins motors looks like a good fit for a modern turbo with a billet cold side and iconel hot..at a reasonable cost, being TD05 based, I have been looking for a Toyota exhaust housing that will work on them,

being that Vadus is in Russia he has to work with what he has access to,

On that check out what ATS is doing with the ct26 might give you some ideas…
 
Thank you for advice, RAYJON. I read about ATS CT27 turbos - it is great. If I have extra 1300$, I'll probably buy it to try, however, its compressor is not good enough for my low-end target with 1HD-FT (needs to be replaced together with a cold housing). But for now, I'm happy with my CT20B. I am also going to fit Billet type wheel, only a Chinese made. And as I wrote in message #20, I'm trying to find the ceramic wheel. If I find it, it will be the best option. I do not need a maximum boost pressure over 1.2 bar, which I'm running at this moment (18psi), so the CT20B is more than enough reliable for this pressure. And another very important detail - we don't have any throttle valve (venturi) on 1HD-FT, and it makes any turbo shaft to last longer.

Billet.webp
 
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And that is how we increased the spring force. Anyway, Den and me decided to make custom wastegate valve shaft out of the stainless steel, so we increased a diameter a bit and made a new bushing. Then we weld in a longer lever for wastegate actuator, so the spring force on shaft had been increased.

lever.webp
 
Nice to see a civil honest conversation, thank you both…. Two different approaches same problem….

I have done some searching and learned a little on the turbo issue, some of the newer holset designs look good.. the he221cw that is fitted to the 4.5 Cummins motors looks like a good fit for a modern turbo with a billet cold side and iconel hot..at a reasonable cost, being TD05 based, I have been looking for a Toyota exhaust housing that will work on them,

being that Vadus is in Russia he has to work with what he has access to,

On that check out what ATS is doing with the ct26 might give you some ideas…
I've run the ATS turbo on MR2s. It's great for that because it bolts on, would be kind of cool to weld in a divider to the stock manifold to convert it into a twin scroll, Toyota already put about 1/2 of a divider in there. the MR2 turbine is nice because the wastegate works on both scrolls unlike most other twin scroll turbos with an internal waste-gate. For me converting to the industry stand T3 flange is the way to go. tons of options from garret/holset/borg others


the HE221 is TD04 based not TD05, there is no Toyota housing that will work without major machining. It wouldn't be hard to cut the flange off the stock manifold, weld a new flange on or make an adapter (might even be an adapter for sale) I haven't run a he221 on a 1HD before but I would want a larger turbo then that, i have the much bigger 8CM he250 on mine now with air/water intercooler and auto-trans. I can't imagine something else spooling quicker, if anything I would want a slightly larger exhaust housing possibly (they do make a 9cm and 11cm twin scroll also) I'll know more soon after I change out the break in-oil and turn up the fuel here soon.
 
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I've run the ATS turbo on MR2s. It's great for that because it bolts on, would be kind of cool to weld in a divider to the stock manifold to convert it into a twin scroll, Toyota already put about 1/2 of a divider in there.
Unfortunately, you won't be able to convert 4-cil. manifold into the Twinscroll that simple way. Because the cylinder order is 1-3-4-2. So you need to group 1+4 and 3+2. That simple way of welding in a divider works only with inline 6-cil. engine's manifold, because the fire order is 1-4-2-6-3-5, so you need to group 1+2+3 and 4+6+5.
 
Unfortunately, you won't be able to convert 4-cil. manifold into the Twinscroll that simple way. Because the cylinder order is 1-3-4-2. So you need to group 1+4 and 3+2. That simple way of welding in a divider works only with inline 6-cil. engine's manifold, because the fire order is 1-4-2-6-3-5, so you need to group 1+2+3 and 4+6+5.
I know I was talking about a 1hd manifold. The mr2 manifold is already twinscroll from the factory.
 
I know I was talking about a 1hd manifold. The mr2 manifold is already twinscroll from the factory.
I just looked at your build thread, nicely done,
 
I know I was talking about a 1hd manifold. The mr2 manifold is already twinscroll from the factory.
Excuse me for misunderstanding) And by the way, I have a question about the ATS compressor wheel: as far, as I could google it, ATS is using either 50/68 wheel 6+6 with very high trim 55 or 46/60 wheel 6+6 with huge trim 59. Correct me if I am wrong. It is clear, that 50/68 is for top-end performance, and 46/60 is for low-mid range for gasoline motors like 3SGTE. I suggest, that both of them are not suitable for 1HD-FT application, since:
1. 6+6 design is heavy and has big inertia for quick start at low-end
2. 50/68 does NOT fit at all to our rpm range - it will start working good after 3000 RPM.
3. 46/60 looks much better for low-rpm, but still has 6+6, that is heavy and more restrictive for low-end, and not good enough after 3000 rpm with 1HD engine air flow.

That is why I am considering 5+5 machined wheel 48/68. Due to 5+5 design this wheel is significantly lighter and less restrictive at low-end. It makes it a winner for response time with 1HD-FT rpm range 1000-2000. And also it has TRIM 50 and big exducer 68, that provides a very good flow at 2000-3000 rpm range and enough flow at 3000-3600, providing high HP withdrawal form the 4.2L 1HD-FT engine, which needs lots and lots of air at 18PSI.

So, it might be better to order custom ATS CT27 modification, with machined compressor wheel 5+5 48/68 I've posted above.
 
The only thing is, that machined compressor wheel probably needs to be hard anodized (if it is 2024 or 2618 aluminum). Especially, If you are living in humid and cold climate, where the road services are spreading around the anti-ice salty chemical compounds. I asked the seller about it, and he answered, that they do not apply any protective treatment at all. I think, that 50 mkm depth of hard anodizing will be enough.
 
I was sharing what others were doing to get more flow out of a ct26, their application is track cars and high hp street cars, very different but good for info..

I like your thought process, on the pin wheel, and middle rpm air flow for drivability, curious how it works if you can get a wheel machined and assembly balanced,

Please keep us updated..
 
Sure I will, and I got your point regarding CT27. I was only describing the risks of plain CT27 installation. My friend Den has already installed the machined wheel. But, he has big CT26 Twinscroll and Automatic Transmission - this is important. So he used very big compressor 49/71 6+6, and it works fine with his 10mm turbo-shaft and A/T. But, for manual transmission and normal driving this wheel is a response killer. That is why I'm using CT26 small and planning to install a smaller and lighter compressor wheel.
 
The attached Wikipedia illustration clearly demonstrates the correlation between the generational changes in the 1HD engine series and the introduction of successive Euro-X standards. The actual implementation dates differ slightly.
  • 1991: Euro 1 → 1HD-T
  • 1995: Euro 2 → 1HD-FT
  • 1999: Euro 3 → 1HD-FTE
  • 2005: Euro 4 → 1HD-FTE + EGR cooler + Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT)
Subsequently, Toyota developed an entirely new engine V8 1VD-FTV, increasing the number of cylinders and adopting common-rail injection.
  • 2009: Euro 5 → 1VD-FTV
  • 2015: Euro 6 → 1VD-FTV
  • 2021: Euro 6d F33A-FTV
In 2021, Toyota essentially "cut off" two cylinders from the V8 and released a new diesel engine, the V6 F33A-FTV, with a 90-degree cylinder bank angle. It is packed with every conceivable emissions control system and burdened by a cumbersome and complex twin-turbo setup with variable geometry. It is noteworthy that the cylinder bore and piston stroke of the F33 match those of the 1VD-FTV engine.
The sheer number of valves, actuators, bypasses, and other engineering excesses on this engine is simply staggering. Combined with its miniature Formula-1-style pistons, small displacement, and high power output, these factors render this engine effectively a disposable unit. As for a word like "reliability" — you can simply forget about it.
EURO_Standards_Diesel.webp
 
I'm sharing an English translation of my article, originally written for the Russian Land-Cruiser community. I hope it will be a helpful resource for Toyota diesel enthusiasts worldwide. The article references several detailed technical threads from Land-Cruiser.RU; you can use browser translation tools or Google web-page translator to read them.

In our daily lives, we often encounter peculiar paradoxes. For instance, powerful sports cars are sold all over the world. However, we can count on the fingers of one hand the number of countries with roads that allow a sports car owner to unlock the full potential of their steel steed, or to travel at high speed without risk to themselves or others. If we consider the legal aspect, the number of such countries becomes even smaller. Yet, we see these high-performance cars with their powerful engines more and more often stuck in endless traffic jams... As a long-time owner of the 1HD-FT engine, I would like to tell you a story about a similar paradox that happened to this remarkable powerplant. Nearly all the issues discussed here have already been covered on our forum in one form or another, often in even greater detail. However, the time has come to gather and systematize all the accumulated information, to transform quantity into quality, and to draw the appropriate conclusions.

So, the 1HD-FT engine—a 4.2-liter, inline-six, turbocharged diesel with mechanical fuel injection and a four-valve head—began to be installed in the Land Cruiser and Coaster from January 1995, replacing its two-valve predecessor, the 1HD-T (in all markets except for "general countries"). It would seem that the adoption of a four-valve design should have given the engine a significant boost in power and torque. But in reality, according to Toyota's official specifications, the 1HD-FT surpasses the 1HD-T by a mere 9 percent in peak power, and its advantage in peak torque is even smaller—just 6 percent. This seems rather meager, especially considering that the 1HD-FT's injection pump has a significantly more aggressive cam plate and is capable of delivering much more fuel to the cylinders. Of course, if we examine detailed power and torque curves for some specific modifications* of these engines, we will see that the 1HD-FT's superiority is more pronounced in the mid-range RPM, in some places reaching up to 20 percent. Nevertheless, the question arises: was it really worth it for the manufacturer to introduce such major changes to the engine's design—a completely new cylinder head and injection pump (not to mention the lesser modifications)—only to achieve such a modest gain in performance? I think not.

So, what happened, and why did Toyota take this path?

A common misconception is that the 1HD-FT was merely a "prototype" or a testing mule for the 1HD-FTE, with the manufacturer simply preparing the hardware for its future flagship diesel with electronically controlled injection. However, considering that the 1HD-FT was installed in the Land Cruiser and Coaster from 01/95 to 01/98, and continued to be installed in the Coaster for a year and a half after the launch of the 1HD-FTE, until mid-1999, it becomes obvious that this view is far from the truth. "Test" versions are not produced for almost five years, and they are certainly not continued after the final version has been launched. So, where do we find the answer to our question?

The answer lies in a different direction. The 1HD-FT was, in a literal sense, unlucky—its launch in 1995 almost perfectly coincided with the adoption of the notorious Euro 2 standard. Of course, manufacturers knew about this event in advance, and it's equally clear that the new engine modification had been designed and tested for at least a year or two. Nevertheless, Toyota was forced to release two different versions of the 1HD-FT: one compliant with Euro 2 norms, and one non-compliant. It's obvious that the version not compliant with Euro 2 was the more powerful and capable one. And it was this specific modification of the engine (*) that had up to a 20% advantage in the working RPM range compared to its 1HD-T predecessor. This issue is discussed in more detail in the thread via this link: 1hd-t или 1hd-ft на 105-ку ? Помогите выбрать. - http://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.php?showtopic=145779. But unfortunately, this modification was supplied only to Australia, and in small batches to the Japanese domestic market. The rest of the world had to make do with the more "progressive" version of the engine, compliant with the Euro 2 environmental standard. What was the price of this compliance?

The price turned out to be quite high. The 1HD-FT engine was equipped with an EGR system, with all the unfortunate consequences that entails. The manufacturer had to install a full two EGR valves to strangle the engine down to Euro 2 norms. The EGR system adds exhaust gases to the intake manifold under certain engine load conditions ("partial" load modes), which reduces the amount of oxidizer in the combustion chamber. As a result, the combustion temperature of the mixture drops, achieving the primary environmental effect – a reduction in NOx emissions. The total mass of gas in the cylinder remains the same and is heated to the required temperature during the compression stroke. It's just that part of this gas does not participate in the combustion process. Furthermore, the EGR system's computer also limits fuel delivery, accounting for the reduced amount of oxidizer in the combustion chamber. On the 1HD-FT engine, pump control is managed through a vacuum actuator for the boost compensator—a rather perverted hybrid of a fully mechanical injection pump and an electronic control system. In other words, in certain engine operating modes, its power is forcibly limited. All other supposedly "positive" effects of the EGR system, such as "after-burning" of unburned fuel, reduced thermal load on the engine, etc., are nothing more than marketing nonsense pulled out of thin air. For those who are not well-versed in technical matters, I can offer a simple, accurate, and crude everyday analogy: the EGR system works as if, under severe financial constraints, you were forced to mix your own excrement from breakfast into your lunch, from lunch into your dinner, and so on. The size of the servings would be larger, but something horrible would happen to your body.

The introduction of the EGR system alone proved insufficient to meet Euro 2 standards. The four-valve system was well-designed and continued to supply a sufficient amount of air for efficient fuel combustion. Therefore, it became necessary to reduce the air supply by deliberately impairing combustion chamber ventilation. To achieve this, the maximum boost pressure of the 1HD-FT's turbocharger was reduced to 0.7 atm (the Toyota manual specifies a check range of 0.38-0.5 atm with no load). The maximum boost pressure of the two-valve 1HD-T was 0.8 atm (check range 0.5-0.65 atm with no load). This means both the operational and maximum boost pressures of the EGR-equipped engine were significantly reduced. Meanwhile, the non-EGR engines continued to be fitted with turbochargers featuring a wastegate that allowed them to reach the designed maximum of 0.8 atm, even though Toyota's parts catalog does not formally specify this difference.

A similar "trick" was performed with the exhaust system – as a "gas mask," the engine was simply fitted with the old exhaust system from the two-valve 1HD-T. As they say, "cheap and cheerful," with the added bonus for the manufacturer being "parts unification." Apparently, in the spirit of this same unification, the old exhaust system was also installed on non-EGR models (since very few of these were produced). For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that even the old exhaust system on non-EGR 1HD-T and 1HD-FT engines for Australian and some Asian markets differed from those for other markets, offering less resistance to exhaust gas flow due to the absence of an additional muffler in the final section.

We should also remember the "environmental legacy" inherited from the Euro 1 standard introduced in 1991. Back then, with the launch of the 1HD-T, its thermostat lineup was reduced to just one model with a range of 76-90°C. It made no difference whether the vehicle was destined for Africa or Northern Europe – there was only one thermostat. The goal was the same: to lower the combustion chamber temperature and reduce NOx emissions. Before Euro 1, the predecessors of the 1HD-T had a full range of thermostats: 76-90, 82-95, 88-100. The 1HD-FT inherited from the 1HD-T this same single, unique "African" 76-90 thermostat.

As a result of the measures described above, the 1HD-FT engine complied with the Euro 2 standard. However, in doing so, the 1HD-FT's dynamic characteristics were practically degraded to the level of its two-valve predecessor, the 1HD-T. Meanwhile, Toyota was already preparing for the introduction of the stricter Euro 3 standard. It was clear that electronic control over fuel quantity, air flow, fuel temperature, etc., would now be essential. This meant abandoning Toyota's legendary diesel reliability but allowed for the restoration of previous, and even higher, levels of air and fuel in the cylinders, improving performance without exceeding the stricter Euro 3 emission limits. Consequently, ahead of the Euro 3 norms taking effect in 1999, Toyota prematurely launched its new flagship, the 1HD-FTE, with its electronically controlled injection pump. Boost pressure was returned to the 0.7-0.85 atm range for Europe and 0.85-1.0 atm for "non-suffering" regions, an intercooler was added, fuel injection pressure was increased, and finally, a completely new exhaust system was fitted, allowing the engine to breathe properly. The EGR system had to be retained, although even this new engine had a superior Australian version where the EGR system was not installed.

Let's return to our hero, the 1HD-FT. Was it destined to "sniff" its own exhaust and remain in a gas mask for the rest of its existence? Of course not. And Mother Toyota left us many paths for retreat. This is especially true given that the engine's potential was clearly demonstrated by Yanmar with their 300-horsepower marine engine, the 6LPA-STP, producing 700 Nm of torque and built on the basis of the 1HD-FT with mechanical fuel injection. Naturally, extracting such power imposes certain longevity constraints, so we will focus on modernizing the 1HD-FT within the service life originally intended by the manufacturer for this engine. So, what needs to be done to achieve this?

A Guide to Liberating the 1HD-FT: Restoring the Engine's True Potential

1. EGR Removal
The first and most critical step is to disable and, preferably, completely remove the EGR system, including cleaning and replacing any related components. The "why" and "how" are detailed in these threads:
EGR system removal and cleaning
EGR valve study and diagnostics

2. Restoring Mechanical Pump Operation
Next, eliminate the influence of the EGR computer on the injection pump's fuel delivery. This effectively returns the pump to the standard operation of the rare, non-EGR models. The procedure is described here:
EGR computer removal and injection pump adjustment

3. Optimizing Air Intake
Use the original air filter 17801-61030. This filter offers less airflow restriction compared to the 17801-68030 filter designed for EGR-equipped engines. The 17801-61030 was used on non-EGR Australian 1HD-FT models and is also rated for the more powerful 1HD-FTE and 1FZ-FE engines. A bonus: it is washable for extended service life. In reality, even this filter is a restriction. A more radical solution is to modify the airbox to accept a larger filter from the 100-series. Details here:
Modifying the airbox for 100-series filter element

4. Installing a Proper Thermostat
If you live in a temperate or northern climate, replace the thermostat with one suited to your region. For more information, see:
Thermostat selection and replacement

5. Freeing the Exhaust
The next step is to remove the "gas mask" by replacing the restrictive exhaust system. While fitting a 1HD-FTE system is difficult, there are many quality aftermarket options from manufacturers like Fujitsubo, Ganador, and Saxon that offer high-flow systems for this engine. For examples, see:
Aftermarket exhaust systems discussion

6. Restoring Boost Pressure
Return the turbocharger's maximum boost pressure to its original designed value of 0.8 atm. It is also advisable to use a two-stage boost controller for the wastegate for more effective low-end response. See this thread:
Boost controller installation and tuning

7. Camshaft and Cylinder Head Upgrade
Installing a camshaft from the 1HD-FTE is a worthwhile upgrade. This cam has a more low-end and mid-range performance, as its intake valve closing timing occurs 8 degrees earlier compared to the FT cam (24° ABDC for FTE vs. 32° ABDC for FT). If you need to replace the cylinder head, it is recommended to use one from a 1HD-FTE, as it incorporates several useful improvements. More info here:
1HD-FTE cylinder head and camshaft upgrade

8. Post-Modification Results and Further Tuning
After these modifications, you will finally experience what this remarkable engine was meant to be. You will find that its performance is nearly on par with its electronically controlled, intercooled sibling. Note that we have not excessively tuned the engine with extreme boost or fuel; we have simply returned these parameters to values that disregard the Euro 2 standard.

For those seeking more power, consider adding a front-mount intercooler from the 1HD-FTE or a more powerful Safari intercooler for the 1HD-FT. The standard turbocharger, with its small 42mm compressor inducer, becomes a major restriction and should be replaced. A pre-facelift turbo from the FTE is a direct bolt-on upgrade. This must be accompanied by corresponding adjustments to the injection pump for increased fuel delivery. More details here:
1HD-FTE turbo and intercooler installation on 1HD-FT

9. Advanced Tuning: Twinscroll Turbocharger System
A significant step forward is implementing a twinscroll turbocharger and corresponding exhaust manifold. This setup greatly improves engine efficiency, cylinder scavenging, lowers EGT, and enhances turbo response across the entire RPM range. This is particularly effective on inline-six engines, where the firing order allows for a relatively straightforward manifold modification. Safari Turbo Systems used this approach in some of their turbo kits for the 1HZ.

When switching to a twinscroll turbo, it is advisable to move away from the standard FTE air-to-air intercooler setup and adopt a more efficient air-to-water charge cooling system. The "cherry on top" is to separate the wastegate gas flow from the main twinscroll turbine flow, routing it through a dedicated downpipe and exhaust. This requires a custom turbine outlet and a separate exhaust section, significantly reducing backpressure and improving high-RPM breathing and EGT. As mentioned, the stock turbo's 42mm compressor inducer is a major "restrictor plate," limiting power to ~180-190 hp. Switching to an FTE turbo (46mm inducer) reduces this restriction, increases compressor trim and flow, and allows for 220-230 hp. Ideally, upgrade to a fully-machined (milled) 48/68 compressor wheel from a Celica, enabling the engine to breathe well at high RPM and produce up to 270-290 hp. For more, see:
Another Twinscroll for 80-series 1HD-FT. This time CT26 Small from Celica 205

10. Enhanced Cooling for Tuned Engines
If you have installed an intercooler and an alternative turbo, significantly increasing power, it is crucial to upgrade the cooling system. Install a more robust viscous clutch and cooling fan from the 1HD-FTE. Details here:
1HD-FTE viscous clutch and fan installation on FT
Also, use a high-quality carboxylate (OAT) antifreeze, such as BASF Glysantin G30.

11. Further Cooling and Oil System Improvements
Another consideration is replacing the oil pan with the larger unit from the newer heavy-duty 70-series. According to Toyota manuals, this pan holds 1.5 liters more oil (+15%), which benefits oil temperature and service life. However, its fitment on a non-lifted 80-series is yet to be fully confirmed. More here:
Question about HZJ78-79 oil pan, part number 12101-17200

An alternative for increasing oil capacity is to replace the inadequate stock oil filter with a larger, cartridge-type truck filter. This adds roughly the same 1.5 liters of oil and offers numerous other advantages. Details here:
Question about 1HD-FT oil system

12. Electrical System Optimization
A useful modification for prolonging battery life is installing a switch for the intake air heater mesh. The mesh draws up to 80A and can operate for 80-120 seconds after engine start. This significantly drains the batteries, especially on short trips. On a well-maintained engine, the mesh is only beneficial as a pre-heater for cold starts below -20°C. Above this temperature, the engine starts perfectly without it. Post-start heating is another "environmental nonsense" feature that slightly improves combustion in a cold engine at the cost of slowly killing your batteries. More here:
Is the intake air heater necessary for 1HD-FT engine?

Good luck and more torque to you,
Vadim Akopyan, aka VADUS

Welcome our brother Vadim to Mud, your new home ! :flipoff2:

Good post indeed, and fascinating to look through your domestic site Land-Cruiser.RU !
Impressed with the number and stories of 40-Series Cruisers in Russia. Most of them JDM Cruisers, what a luck to be a neighbour to Japan...

:cheers: and greetings from Greece!
Demetrios
 
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I have exactly the same opinion. Thanks.

May be it is not the best, but it is a Twinscroll, and that is increasing engine's volumetric efficiency and, as a result, fuel efficiency. And it is much better at the low-end compared to the original CT26 from 1HD-FT. After 3000 rpms it is also OK, much better, than stock one from 1HD-FTE with smaller wheel 60/48. Above I've written the solution to increase high-end performance - just separate wastegates flow from a main turbine wheel flow.

But it is a singlscroll I'm not going back to. That's why I am looking for an original used ceramic wheel&shaft for my CT20B. Its weight about TWO times less, than inconel one, and together with fully machined compressor, it will make my low-end perfect. With my diesel exhaust temperatures it will last long. But it is pretty hard to find.

The reason no-one makes a twin scroll turbo for these engines is because you need a smaller turbine housing than can be easily divided. That's why a divided manifold into a single scroll turbine is the best result. The petrol CT26/CT20B turbines are bigger than the diesels because the exhaust is hotter. The ceramic wheel will help spool up speed under acceleration but not rpm to boost. They are rumoured to be fragile but I've never used one.

Best toyota turbo for the 1HD-FT is the 1HD-FTE CT20B turbocharger. The early VNT turbines weren't very efficient and can produce good boost but with worse drive pressure ratios.

If we compare turbine size using choke flow (lb/min)
CT26 with the 74010 mid-size round entry turbine is around 17.7 lb/min
CT26 with the 52020 smallest round entry turbine is around 13.9 lb/min - This is the best one for diesels.
CT26 with the 42010 mid-size round entry turbine is around 22.1 lb/min

CT20B (1HD-FTE) with the 17020 housing is around 12 lb/min. Best by a long shot.
A TD05H turbine in a 17020 housing is around 13lb/min. But a lot more efficient and will deliver more boost and flow than a stock CT20B.
 
That's why a divided manifold into a single scroll turbine is the best result.
I doubt that. The best result is obtained with the pure twinscroll setup, especially for SUV and its lowest rpm range, where you do not have ANY boost pressure at all. That is because the pure twinscroll setup really protects valve overlap phase from previous exhaust impulses, therefore increasing amount of the air coming into the combustion chamber. It also works under the boost pressure modes. Divided manifold + single scroll turbo still has very strong back pressure impulses at valve overlap phase.
Regarding the housing size, even assuming, that the Celica's housing is a little bit bigger, than it should be - it is still working very good. Anyway, it is being resolved by fueling: twinscroll setup requires much more fuel at the start to generate a lot of exhaust for the both scrolls. And it is being easily adjusted on mechanical VE pump. Rough calculation tells me, that the Celica's housing is OK, since its gasoline motor has two more times smaller displacement and two times higher working/max RPM range. That little "more" (2*2<=4.2) compensates lower diesel exhaust gas temperature by increased gas flow and increased frequency of fire strokes (+0.2 litters and + 2 cylinders).
Best toyota turbo for the 1HD-FT is the 1HD-FTE CT20B turbocharger.
I had that turbo for almost 6 years (NON VGT configuration) and I can tell you for sure - it works much worse compared to the Celica's twinscroll. I never install VGT turbo on my engine, because I don't wont to get a stuck geometry blades somewhere 2000 km away from home at Caucasian mountains on 3500 meters altitude. If I really decide to get an immediate response from my turbo and very high torque at very low-end (what in its turn is not very good for the crankshaft since low oil pressure at low rpm), I will go with the BorgWarner solution, which is much more simple, reliable and effective. It also keeps the twinscroll setup at the normal boost mode and can be easily implemented on Celica's Twinscroll turbo by any good welder.

BorgWarner1.jpg.ee63430e98ac29ae603dc9e45548a789.webp


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BorgWarner2.jpg.4a5981cbef8ecbea7e920cbb24ebe15d.webp
 
Thanks to everyone for the input, learning a lot,

Ok where do find a td05h with a 17020 housing?? Or do I have to build one? Efficiency map??

I have been looking at the holset he250cw with a split manifold, these are used on the new 4.5 Cummins common rail motors, any opinions??

There is also the td04hl4s used on the yanmar marine engines, which should have a ct26 flange..haven’t looked into this much..
 
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