1fz oil leak from oil pump. (Major leak)

[outdoort]

Hey guys. I have a major oil leak i just discovered from my oil pump cover on my 1997 fzj 80.

Hopefully i can post a couple photos from my phone here.

The leak is coming from the hole in the oil pump cover and is pictured on the vehicle as well as this tig tungsten pointing directly to the hole.

The leak isnt coming from around the cover like i feel like it should. The leak is dripping from the hole here that almost looks like there should be a bolt placed in there
(i know now that no bolt is supposed to go there because of the manual photo)
But what is the problem here????

What parts do i need to order from the dealer? If i get in there then a crank seal and oil pump seal will be replaced but do i have a crack in the cast aluminum oil pump seal????

Thanks a lot. Of course this has to happen when its 10 degrees out and not during summer when i can do it outside.

 

[BILT4ME]

That hole is SUPPOSED to have an idler pulley in it.

Frequently, people remove it (mine was missing when I bought my truck) and I drove many thousands of miles without it. Mine did NOT leak during that time through that hole.

I installed a new pulley and bolt in that hole and am running new Toyota belts (smooth back so they're quiet)

Buy a new idler pulley with bolt and install it, wash off the front and see if the leak continues.

The idler runs on the INSIDE of the belts.

 

[Desert Dino]

removed

 

[inkpot]

That hole is SUPPOSED to have an idler pulley in it.

Frequently, people remove it (mine was missing when I bought my truck) and I drove many thousands of miles without it. Mine did NOT leak during that time through that hole.

I installed a new pulley and bolt in that hole and am running new Toyota belts (smooth back so they're quiet)

Buy a new idler pulley with bolt and install it, wash off the front and see if the leak continues.

The idler runs on the INSIDE of the belts.

Or just put a short bolt and some RTV sealant in there. I’m guessing that a leak could be caused by someone forcing a too lon bolt into that hole. Normally it is a blind hole with no access to oil. Running the pulley is kind of moot: many of us have run many years without one without suffering any ill effects.

 

[Desert Dino]

15115-66020 - Toyota Parts Deal

for 1994 this cover cost 33.5$ and available

 

[WillGentry]

there's a good youtube video on how to do all the front end seals.

 

[outdoort]

Wow quick replys. Thanks so much. I didnt think anything was supposed to go there. In the 7 years ive owned this 80 ive never had the pully so i guess the po removed it.

So im betting that my oil pump seal is bad (at least in that spot where the pully bolt is supposed to go).
Im gonna just find the proper bolt and use the bolt with toyota fipg and be done with it.

Its sounding like next summer ill be able to swap in one of the 4bd2t engines i bought so i just need temporary.

Anyone know thread size and pitch so i can just go to my nut and bolt dealer and tell them what i need?

 

[Eric Hohlfelder]

The pulley just touches the belt and keeps it from bouncing. The cover can be replaced without removing the radiator (You may want to put a cardboard or panel to protect the radiator as it is tight, good time to replace radiator if you need to though?) but it is held on by Phillips screws which you may want to order if you get a new cover. There are notes of them stripping out so read up on them and use a properly sized bit. Also, go out and spray them down with some PB blaster or similar penetration oil so it can soak while sourcing the other parts. The formed o-ring gasket from Toyota will also be needed and requires a bit of tacky gasket holder to keep in place. I did mine years ago but may need to do again with a new cover as it weeps a bit. You may need a big torque bar to get the balancer nut tightened as well. Hold engine from turning with a socket or extension pinned in a hole in the flywheel. There is an access rubber cover under the torque converter. Video should help with all. Good luck, bummer on the cold for sure...

 

[outdoort]

Alright back up and running!!!
Picked up a 10mx1.25 x45mm long bolt and washer and just threaded it in and tightened it up. No more major leak .

The good thing is that all the oil coated both my front and rear axles pretty good for some free rust proofing! Might just unscrew this bolt once every fall haha

Thanks for the help guys. Still could use a crank and oil pump seal but those are slow leaks.

I went through a 1-1.5 qts this morn in a 2hr drive so thats when i knew something wasnt right.

 

[fz1boxer]

what you have is T.E.R.P all over your axles
toyota engineered rust preventative
you see the engineer's at toyota so graciously built in oil leaks front to back to make sure undercarriages did not rust thus insuring longevity

 

[Gabriel 71]

change that o ring but watch out for stripped screws they are soft and a pain to get out once stripped ask me how I know