so I am at the beginning of a engine build and need some info on main and rod bearings. Currently I have main bearing marked 4 and five rod bearing marked 4 and one marked 3. When I reference toyota it shows u/s .25? Which is confusing to me! I am not doing any machine work or the crank I just want new stock size main and connecting rods bearing. Any part numbers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank wes
Boom! You the best
Rod bearing 13041-66031-03 quantity 1
Rod bearing 13041-66031-04 quantity 5
Main bearing 11701-66031-04 quantity 7
Rod bolts 13265-66020 quantity 12
Main bolts 90910-02110 quantity 14
So the last two digits is marked on each bearing. The bolts are torqu to yield so they can be checked but replacing is recommended. I know I am answering my own question but figure it will help someone out in the future.
so I am at the beginning of a engine build and need some info on main and rod bearings. Currently I have main bearing marked 4 and five rod bearing marked 4 and one marked 3. When I reference toyota it shows u/s .25? Which is confusing to me! I am not doing any machine work or the crank I just want new stock size main and connecting rods bearing. Any part numbers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank wes
Do not buy .25 set! Unless you plan to take your block to thr machinist and oversize your crank.
Otherwise stick to the Marked caps. Yes the parts diagram really sucks for finding the marked caps for fj80. Keep looking and you'll find the right ones.
Boom! You the best
Rod bearing 13041-66031-03 quantity 1
Rod bearing 13041-66031-04 quantity 5
Main bearing 11701-66031-04 quantity 7
Rod bolts 13265-66020 quantity 12
Main bolts 90910-02110 quantity 14
So the last two digits is marked on each bearing. The bolts are torqu to yield so they can be checked but replacing is recommended. I know I am answering my own question but figure it will help someone out in the future.
Does anyone know how common it is to reuse the main bearing bolts? I'm building my engine as well, the bolts mic'd out well within spec I guess I'm just freaked out by stretching a bolt 90 degrees, it feels weird..... Most I could barely get to 90 degrees with a 1/2 inch breaker bar.
Inspected and measured all my main bearings and bottom end everything looks great but if I need to replace the main bearing cap bolts with ARP or factory I'd like to just do it now.
I'm so thankful I went further into the head gasket job down to the block the timing cover o-rings, gasket sealer as well as my timing chain guides were just done.
Everything will be new now if I can touch it I'm replacing it.
Excellent default answer.
I replaced all head bolts w/OEM, even though they were (barely) in spec.
My rod and mains were at the top of spec, so back in the frying pan they went!
Also, the tighting protocol seems more stressful for head bolts
YMMV
Excellent default answer.
I replaced all head bolts w/OEM, even though they were (barely) in spec.
My rod and mains were at the top of spec, so back in the frying pan they went!
Also, the tighting protocol seems more stressful for head bolts
YMMV
Yeah I'm still on the fence about my main bearing bolts they were all at the top end of spec for me as well,
The head bolts when I did my Tacoma 3rz I did use new ones but they freak me out pretty bad how far they twist. I suppose that's the comparison I'm drawing with the mains which isn't near as bad, great point!
I have the ARP head studs I hear they work quite well, head bolts are not ones that I would want to reuse either.
Boom! You the best
Rod bearing 13041-66031-03 quantity 1
Rod bearing 13041-66031-04 quantity 5
Main bearing 11701-66031-04 quantity 7
Rod bolts 13265-66020 quantity 12
Main bolts 90910-02110 quantity 14
So the last two digits is marked on each bearing. The bolts are torqu to yield so they can be checked but replacing is recommended. I know I am answering my own question but figure it will help someone out in the future.
