1999 LX470 drive flange problem?
- Thread starter dgardner
- Start date
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Flipped Bezel
Here for a good time...not a long time!
Looks like you will need a new outer CV shaft along with the flange/gasket. There was some play there for quite some time and the inward movement caused the snap ring to grind off the splined shaft metal as it turned until there was nothing left to retain it. That is exactly why there are a few snap rings available with different thicknesses...to keep it tight and prevent undue wear.
I would only use OEM parts here to assure longevity and make sure to replace the seal just inside the differential when the CV axle is pulled for repair.
I would only use OEM parts here to assure longevity and make sure to replace the seal just inside the differential when the CV axle is pulled for repair.
Flipped Bezel
Here for a good time...not a long time!
Welding is not necessary....just pull the drive flange and front drive shaft off, lock the center diff and drive carefully in rear wheel drive. I would mark the orientation of your driveshaft before removal so that it goes on just like originally installed to ensure no future balance issues and to keep it's grease fittings aligned. Be aware that driving this way the shaft could still pull inwards some and allow contaminants to enter into the spindle bearings if driven enough in inclement conditions.
This exact same scenario happened to me one night leaving a remote work location in a rural area shortly after I had just purchased my LX a few years back. My "roadside" fix that I was forced to drive a couple thousand miles on was to go to a local Tractor Supply and source the correct size/length metric bolt, a couple of fender/lock washers (one fender washer large enough to sit on the inner ring in middle of the drive flange but still small enough to go inside of dust cap) and a small tube of red (high strength) threadlock. Bring your drive flange/dust cap inside the store to ensure that you get the best diameter washers and make sure to get the shortest length bolt that will engage all the threads in the shaft but still compress the lock washer and still fit inside of dust cap.
I stacked the largest washer inside up against the shaft end to prevent it from going back to the inside of hub (it was slightly larger than shaft end and the inside diameter of flange center bore) and the lock washer furthest out next to the bolt head to lock it all together (I had to use a couple flat washers to make sure bolt did not bottom out and lock washer was compressed). I applied threadlock to bolt threads and screwed it tightly into the threaded hole in outer CV shaft. I allowed the threadlock to cure and replaced the dust cap. I drove it this way for about 2 weeks until I could get the parts in hand and time off from work to make the repair.
For the first several drives I would remove the dust cap to check if the bolt was still tight and it never worked itself loose. I eventually had to grind the bolt head off for drive flange/CV shaft removal once it came time to make the permanent repair but this allowed me to continue to use the truck until I could permanently fix it and kept the CV axle pretty sealed and tight. This makeshift field repair accomplished the same thing as welding a bead onto the end of the shaft and only cost me my time and a few dollars in hardware costs.
This exact same scenario happened to me one night leaving a remote work location in a rural area shortly after I had just purchased my LX a few years back. My "roadside" fix that I was forced to drive a couple thousand miles on was to go to a local Tractor Supply and source the correct size/length metric bolt, a couple of fender/lock washers (one fender washer large enough to sit on the inner ring in middle of the drive flange but still small enough to go inside of dust cap) and a small tube of red (high strength) threadlock. Bring your drive flange/dust cap inside the store to ensure that you get the best diameter washers and make sure to get the shortest length bolt that will engage all the threads in the shaft but still compress the lock washer and still fit inside of dust cap.
I stacked the largest washer inside up against the shaft end to prevent it from going back to the inside of hub (it was slightly larger than shaft end and the inside diameter of flange center bore) and the lock washer furthest out next to the bolt head to lock it all together (I had to use a couple flat washers to make sure bolt did not bottom out and lock washer was compressed). I applied threadlock to bolt threads and screwed it tightly into the threaded hole in outer CV shaft. I allowed the threadlock to cure and replaced the dust cap. I drove it this way for about 2 weeks until I could get the parts in hand and time off from work to make the repair.
For the first several drives I would remove the dust cap to check if the bolt was still tight and it never worked itself loose. I eventually had to grind the bolt head off for drive flange/CV shaft removal once it came time to make the permanent repair but this allowed me to continue to use the truck until I could permanently fix it and kept the CV axle pretty sealed and tight. This makeshift field repair accomplished the same thing as welding a bead onto the end of the shaft and only cost me my time and a few dollars in hardware costs.
Both the LX and LC use the same axle assemblies.
Beware, the individual CV joint you posted is about $100 MORE than a complete, ready to install axle assembly.
43430-60040 Axle Assembly
Genuine Toyota CV Axle (Left, Right, Front) part# 43430-60040 for 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts| Official Online Store
Save Time and Money get your Genuine Toyota CV Axle (Left, Right, Front) (4343060040) For Your 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
versus
43403-60010 CV Joint
43403-60010 - C.V Joint 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts
Save Money On Your C.V Joint (4340360010) For Your 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
- Thread starter
- #28
I ended up spot welding the axle to the drive flange. It has held up to daily driving since. I have all the parts ready to install now, just waiting on good weather, looks like I should be able to do it this weekend. Thanks for all the help.
Did you ever find the right part number? I have the save problem you have had here and am trying to put together an OEM parts list so I can assemble everything I need to do this job with quality parts and so far I have...
90311-47013 Left Hand Side
90311-47027 Right Hand Side
Just want to confirm it's correct so I can order.
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