1999 LC 100 Won't Start After Replacing Fuel Filter (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 18, 2022
Threads
1
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5
Location
NJ/FL
Yo, yo, yo!

I recently became an LC 100 owner. This is the first time in many years, I've owned a vehicle that isn't close to new. And it's already turning into an adventure. This forum btw, has been an awesome resource for learning about the land cruiser. So thanks to everyone here who participates.

This is my first post and so I'll try to be short and to the point. This old girl just passed 285k. She was running pretty decent when I got her, but first thing I did was take it to a local mechanic and had the timing belt, water pump, etc... all done, also replaced the exhaust, as it was in pretty bad shape overall, with a few holes from rust, etc... (It's a NE car after all). I've had her back for about a month and she's been running pretty good. It was not clear if the timing belt had ever been replaced, so it's possible this thing went nearly 300k without it ever having been done. I have no way to know for sure.

Anyways I decided to do a few additional simple maintenance items myself, namely replace the fuel filter and spark plugs. Neither of which I have any idea of if or when they'd been replaced. Admittedly it's been a stretch since I did any wrenching myself, but I'm not entirely new to the game, and figured this was a simple easy place to start, not to mention my guess is both are probably well overdue.

First up, I decided to swap in a new fuel filter. I grabbed an OEM Toyota replacement and after it had sat and collected dust for a few weeks, I had some time yesterday morning and jumped in to swap it out. Everything went fairly smooth with the process. The rear 10mm bolt that holds the bracket in the engine bay did break off, and I'll have to deal with that at some point, but for now I mounted it back up with just the front bolt. Everything connected back up no problem, and I don't see any leaks.

But the fun was just beginning. I turned the ignition on and off several times in an attempt to make sure the system got at least partially primed and attempted to start. It cranked and cranked, but no go. I tried a dozen times or so, and then decided, to check the filter at the exit (from the filter) line. You know, the one with the green plastic tab things. It definitely had some pressure there and spit fuel out. After reconnecting, I decided maybe I flooded the engine and I should wait a bit.

After about 45 minutes I went back out and tried it again. It cranked and cranked, but after about 5 tries she fired up. I let it idle for about 10 minutes or so and then took it for a short drive (maybe 2-3 miles or so). It did stall once at a stop sign, but started right back up again after. I figured it might have just been air still in the system, but after driving a little while farther it seemed fine. In fact it felt like it was running better than before I changed out the fuel filter, but that could have just been the placebo effect.

Fast forward to this morning. I went back out to go to the store, and she cranked but wouldn't start. I thought, well crap, maybe I didn't drive it enough and there is still air in the line or something. Tried a few more times, then connected my ghetto blue tooth OBDII reader. I got a P1300, and then a pending P0340 code. I cleared the codes and tried cranking again and got the P0340 again. I let it sit for a couple of hours and then tried once more this afternoon. The P1300 is gone, but I do still have the P0340.

Now I know the P0340 is for the camshaft position sensor. I could be way off, but my gut tells me this may be a red herring. Yes, something in that circuit could be bad, but I like to think that it's somehow related to changing the fuel filter. That's the thing I changed after all! I will do some work to check that circuit related to the code, but for now I figure I'd take a step back to think about it before banging my head against the wall too much.

I was contemplating throwing some engine starter in the air box and see if she'd fire up, but I feel like it shouldn't need that if it is getting fuel. It's mildly in the 50's here so it's not sub zero or anything. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
 
Its not air in the line. Also the fuel pump will not 'prime' the system as with other vehicles when you turn the key to the 'on' position so don't bother with that. The circuit only completes when cranking the engine.

Your issue will most likely be found with the Cam Position Sensor. Specifically the wire. Your mechanic didn't tuck it back into place I'll bet and your serpentine belt has worn it through. Check the wiring and connection there. Its also possible the sensor itself has gone bad....but the smart money says (chaffed wire).
 
@flintknapper Thanks for that suggestion. I'll definitely check that out more closely today. Does anyone have a picture of where the cam shaft position sensor is? I believe it's somewhere on the front of the engine block closer to the driver's side (code indicates Bank 1), but was looking a bit last night and wasn't 100% on the exact location and if it's under a cover, etc...

Has anyone else ever experienced the P0340 getting thrown after cranking the engine too much, and being a false indicator? I saw something somewhere about a bad starter causing this and related codes from the ECU picking up that the engine was attempting to start but never fired up successfully (on a Toyota specifically). Definitely not trying to avoid the obvious with that code, but at the same time, I don't want to ignore the obvious, which is I did one thing (fuel filter), and now this. Working in IT, I rarely encounter coincidences, but they do occur. :) Albeit, the fuel filter change was a pretty darn simple task, and admittedly this no start after definitely has me scratching my head.
 
@flintknapper Thanks for that suggestion. I'll definitely check that out more closely today. Does anyone have a picture of where the cam shaft position sensor is? I believe it's somewhere on the front of the engine block closer to the driver's side (code indicates Bank 1), but was looking a bit last night and wasn't 100% on the exact location and if it's under a cover, etc...

Has anyone else ever experienced the P0340 getting thrown after cranking the engine too much, and being a false indicator? I saw something somewhere about a bad starter causing this and related codes from the ECU picking up that the engine was attempting to start but never fired up successfully (on a Toyota specifically). Definitely not trying to avoid the obvious with that code, but at the same time, I don't want to ignore the obvious, which is I did one thing (fuel filter), and now this. Working in IT, I rarely encounter coincidences, but they do occur. :) Albeit, the fuel filter change was a pretty darn simple task, and admittedly this no start after definitely has me scratching my head.

See LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io/

This is a handy on-line version of the Factory Service Manual published by Toyota Overseas Customer Service Technical Division and covers most things on all LC100 models – and under the skin, also applies to most LX470 models.

Use the pulldown chart on the left hand side of the opening page and find your way to an exploded diagram showing the requested location of the Camshaft Position Sensor. Use these tabs as a starter:

Engine Repair Manual [2UZ-FE] > IGNITION > CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR > COMPONENTS

Along the way, you might want to stop off at the following pages, using these tabs:

Engine Repair Manual [2UZ-FE] > DIAGNOSTICS > ENGINE > P0340/12 and also P0335/12.

On each of these diagnostic pages, it is worth carefully reading the actual wording for each Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) under the heading “DTC Detecting Condition” and the suggested “Trouble Area”.

The meaning of the wording would have been very precise in the mind of the writer – but sometimes the English translation of what a Japanese engineer may have been thinking can require a little imagination!

Sometimes, it can take a while to figure out what the DTC actually means in terms of observed symptoms on the vehicle, especially if there is more than one DTC – but if a DTC is recorded and persists after clearing, then it really does mean something.

Then suggest follow the lead mentioned by @flintknapper – it only needs removal of a few bolts and covers and then at the least you will be able to catch or eliminate any “red herrings”!

Meanwhile, welcome to IH8MUD – and enjoy the truck!!

Camshaft Position Sensor -2UZ-FE.jpg
 
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@IndroCruise Invaluable resource! Thank you! I think I found the sensor and the wires looked okay to me. But I'll go as far as to remove it and test it out even and fully inspect all the cables later.

Meanwhile, while I was out there under the hood, and before my hands completely froze off in this awful mid April creeping towards May weather we have here, I was able to tap out the broken off bolt from underneath the fender and at least get the fuel filter fully bolted back down. yeehaw, for small victories!
 
And, now that I reviewed the pages @IndroCruise mentioned, I definitely found the right connector for the sensor and saw where the wire feeds through the grommet into the LH TB cover. The wires exposed that I see look okay, but I'm wondering if something under the cover could have gotten damaged by the belt. Once I get it out and take a closer look I'll update here. That manual is awesome. I was very close to purchasing a repair manual for this truck. I'm definitely a visual learner. Pictures say a thousand words. Much, much appreciated for that link!
 
See LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io/

This is a handy on-line version of the Factory Service Manual published by Toyota Overseas Customer Service Technical Division and covers most things on all LC100 models – and under the skin, also applies to most LX470 models.

Use the pulldown chart on the left hand side of the opening page and find your way to an exploded diagram showing the requested location of the Camshaft Position Sensor. Use these tabs as a starter:

Engine Repair Manual [2UZ-FE] > IGNITION > CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR > COMPONENTS

Along the way, you might want to stop off at the following pages, using these tabs:

Engine Repair Manual [2UZ-FE] > DIAGNOSTICS > ENGINE > P0340/12 and also P0335/12.

On each of these diagnostic pages, it is worth carefully reading the actual wording for each Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) under the heading “DTC Detecting Condition” and the suggested “Trouble Area”.

The meaning of the wording would have been very precise in the mind of the writer – but sometimes the English translation of what a Japanese engineer may have been thinking can require a little imagination!

Sometimes, it can take a while to figure out what the DTC actually means in terms of observed symptoms on the vehicle, especially if there is more than one DTC – but if a DTC is recorded and persists after clearing, then it really does mean something.

Then suggest follow the lead mentioned by @flintknapper – it only needs removal of a few bolts and covers and then at the least you will be able to catch or eliminate any “red herrings”!

Meanwhile, welcome to IH8MUD – and enjoy the truck!!

View attachment 2986190
cam sensor mounted.jpg
Cam wire plug.JPG
 
Quick update. I pulled the camshaft position sensor off and inspected it. It's sitting here next to me at the moment. The wires all look good to go. I don't see any fraying or exposed copper. I tested resistance on it with a multimeter and it's reading 1.105 - 1.106 kohms. Is that within spec? Any other ways I can test the sensor itself, before re-installing it? Or would the right thing to do be to just bite the bullet and replace it?
 
Quick update. I pulled the camshaft position sensor off and inspected it. It's sitting here next to me at the moment. The wires all look good to go. I don't see any fraying or exposed copper. I tested resistance on it with a multimeter and it's reading 1.105 - 1.106 kohms. Is that within spec? Any other ways I can test the sensor itself, before re-installing it? Or would the right thing to do be to just bite the bullet and replace it?

DTC P0340 is telling you that one of the following situations has occurred:

DTC P0340.jpg


In addition to previous FSM references given in Post #4 in this thread, suggest go to:

LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io/

Then go to the following tabs, for explanations, diagrams and resistance specifications ….

Engine Repair Manual [2UZ-FE] > IGNITION > IGNITION SYSTEM > ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION > Go to Page IG-5 (the last page at this reference)

Camshaft Position Sensor Test - 2UZ-FE.jpg


If you consider that the Crankshaft Position Sensor is good, then maybe it is time to work upstream through the circuit – connectors, harness, all the way back to the ECU if necessary, testing for continuity and whether any applied voltage is correct. Why? Because the ECU “thinks” that the Sensor is faulty – as far as it can tell! And it cannot tell the difference between a faulty Sensor and faulty connectors or faulty upstream wiring that gives the same effect.

@flintknapper or others may be able to provide more practical experience …..
 
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