1999 -Inner and outer tie rod end (1 Viewer)

[zafar11]

Folks,

I got 200k miles on LC, No offroad miles on this city Land cruiser.

When do I change inner and outer tir rod ends ?

No allignement issue but LC got 200k miles, I'm about to change outer ones but should I change inner ones too ?

Any guidance will be appreciated.

Thanks
Zaf

 

[JunkCrzr89]

With 200k miles, replace both inner and outer. They’re not lifetime parts. However, keep in mind that if you might replace your steering rack in the near future, a new rack comes with new inner tie rod ends.

 

[zafar11]

With 200k miles, replace both inner and outer. They’re not lifetime parts. However, keep in mind that if you might replace your steering rack in the near future, a new rack comes with new inner tie rod ends.

Thanks for your feedback. I will replace both.

 

[flintknapper]

Folks,

I got 200k miles on LC, No offroad miles on this city Land cruiser.

When do I change inner and outer tir rod ends ?

No allignement issue but LC got 200k miles, I'm about to change outer ones but should I change inner ones too ?

Any guidance will be appreciated.

Thanks
Zaf

IF you are changing the outer's because of wear (or slop) then yes, do the inner's too as well as the steering rack bushings. But if you are not having steering problems and your steering rack isn't leaking.... it isn't really something you would do 'maintenance wise'. The steering rack IS a 'wear' part (just like brake pads) but there is no need to change anything based solely on mileage.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

IF you are changing the outer's because of wear (or slop) then yes, do the inner's too as well as the steering rack bushings. But if you are not having steering problems and your steering rack isn't leaking.... it isn't really something you would do 'maintenance wise'. The steering rack IS a 'wear' part (just like brake pads) but there is no need to change anything based solely on mileage.

I respectfully disagree. The Toyota maintenance schedule recommends inspecting the “steering linkage and boots” (ie, inner and outer TREs) every 15,000 miles under normal usage (every 5,000 miles under “special operating conditions”), indicating that Toyota considers the TREs wear items that will need replacement based on mileage and/or use. At 200k miles, the originals have served their purpose and then some. I think slop in TREs, particularly the inners, is often mistaken for a worn rack, which is unnecessarily replaced.

 

[flintknapper]

I respectfully disagree. The Toyota maintenance schedule recommends inspecting the “steering linkage and boots” (ie, inner and outer TREs) every 15,000 miles under normal usage (every 5,000 miles under “special operating conditions”), indicating that Toyota considers the TREs wear items that will need replacement based on mileage and/or use.

^^^^^

Key word 'inspect'. Just as you would 'inspect' brake pads and other wear items. But you don't REPLACE unless there is a need. In the OP's case IF there a reason/need to replace both inner's and outer's and bushings....he might as well replace the entire rack or rebuild the old one.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

^^^^^

Key word 'inspect'. Just as you would 'inspect' brake pads and other wear items. But you don't REPLACE unless there is a need. In the OP's case IF there a reason/need to replace both inner's and outer's and bushings....he might as well replace the entire rack or rebuild the old one.

It also says to *inspect* transfer case and differential oil, but never to replace it under normal operating conditions, and never even mentions inspecting or replacing water pump. Yet, we all replace those items at regular intervals (or at least semi-regular) regardless of their condition. I don’t think anyone would advocate waiting until the t-case or diffs failed as the “need” to replace the oil, or waiting until water pump starts leaking or failing as the “need” to replace water pump instead of preventatively doing it when changing timing belt.

Tie rod ends are cheap (if 555) and easy to replace, they receive the brunt of forces on the steering system incurred while driving, and are designed to wear and fail before the rack. With 200k miles on the originals, one probably shouldn’t wait for a TRE to fail or get sloppy, which will ultimately result in more costs to replace poorly worn tires, etc. The outer TREs are quite a bit beefier and stronger than the inners, which generally seem to wear before the outers. If replacing the outer, then why would one not just go ahead and replace the inner, which takes 5 more minutes to do?

 

[flintknapper]

It also says to *inspect* transfer case and differential oil, but never to replace it under normal operating conditions, and never even mentions inspecting or replacing water pump.
Yes, INSPECT the lubricants for contamination and proper level, they are consumables...what do you not understand about that? As for the Water Pump, tell me exactly how you would 'inspect it' short of removing all the covers it is behind? It isn't meant to be inspected at regular intervals. Water Pumps typically 'slow fail' and your CLUE is coolant coming from the 'weep hole' provided for just that event. Surely, you know that?

Yet, we all replace those items at regular intervals (or at least semi-regular) regardless of their condition. I don’t think anyone would advocate waiting until the t-case or diffs failed as the “need” to replace the oil, or waiting until water pump starts leaking or failing as the “need” to replace water pump instead of preventatively doing it when changing timing belt.

Most of us replace the water pump (and pulleys, idlers, etc) when a Timing Belt is due for replacement simply because you don't want to have to go back in there should one fail. Lubricants are to be replaced based on their condition (not mileage). My argument and point (which you just made for me) is to replace fluids (consumables) when in need. Lubricants break down over time and with use. So when they begin to 'fail' we replace them. You have the option of replacing them before that. No one is suggesting that they be left until a T-Case, Diff or Tranny fails, that is ludicrous but of course you know that.

Tie rod ends are cheap (if 555) and easy to replace, they receive the brunt of forces on the steering system incurred while driving, and are designed to wear and fail before the rack. With 200k miles on the originals, one probably shouldn’t wait for a TRE to fail or get sloppy, which will ultimately result in more costs to replace poorly worn tires, etc. The outer TREs are quite a bit beefier and stronger than the inners, which generally seem to wear before the outers. If replacing the outer, then why would one not just go ahead and replace the inner, which takes 5 more minutes to do?

I really don't care what the OP decides to do. His question concerns when to change the TRE's. Your position is that it should be done according to mileage. My position is that he should first determine their condition. How a vehicle is used and has been serviced in the past can make a big difference. How do you know that he even has the original TRE's (or steering rack) on his vehicle?

For example (different vehicle) my 80 series has 315K miles on it. It literally has the original drive train and suspension on it (engine, transmission, Tcase, driveshafts, U-joints, diffs, axles and so much more). Many others have not made it that far on the original parts, because they've been used and serviced differently. I can tell you that I don't plan to replace my Engine, Trans, T-case, etc based solely their mileage, but rather by signs of significant wear or failure. We are not in disagreement that certain parts could/should be replaced preventatively. But each person needs to decide that for themselves and not act hastily on recommendations based solely on age or mileage.

^^^^

Expand for replies.

 

[zafar11]

I think just to be safe.. I will replace inner and outer. I'm scared of tie rod breaking. Losing control with kids in the car is scary and dangerous.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Appreciate it.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I've never once heard of a tie rod breaking. As someone said, inspect things before you start throwing money at something that may not be an issue. Are the boots leaking? Is there play in the joint? How do they look visually?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Your position is that it should be done according to mileage. My position is that he should first determine their condition.
^^^^

Expand for replies.

There’s clearly some misinterpretation here, as that is not my position. OP states he has 200k miles and is replacing the outers, and provided no indication to reasonably suspect that the inners or outers had ever been replaced. My point is that if the originals have 200k miles on them, regardless of usage, then one ought to just go ahead and replace the inners while changing the outers because you’re already in there (ie, similar to replacing water pump while changing timing belt). My reference to mileage intervals was simply to demonstrate that Toyota considers TREs to be a wear part that will need to be replaced at some point, potentially as often as every 15k miles if subjected to special operating conditions (a rare extreme), given the inspection recommendations. I’ve not posited that TREs should be replaced at a specific mileage.

Good to hear about your 80. My 40 is also still on its original 47 year-old drivetrain, frame, body, and suspension (aside from shocks), including engine, transmission, Tcase, driveshafts, U-joints, diffs, axles and so much more...

 

[nissanh]

If there are no free play in the OEM parts inner and outer joints, don't replace. If you plan to replace it anyways, go with OEM. Any aftermarket part will fail before your current OEM parts fail.

FYI: my 2000 LC with 237K miles has OEM rack ends and still no play. Rack is refurbished. My 97 4R at 216K and 92 corolla at 277K miles got factory steering components.

I have never owned any other brand other than toyota (90 hilux, 92 corolla, 97 4R and 00 LC). People who used to own other brands which are poorly made feels your toyota has to be treated the same way: Sorry, no.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I've never once heard of a tie rod breaking.

And also:Weak tie rod end?