- Thread starter
- #41
that hole earlier this year was a truck eater.....
im also used to wheeling with a snorkel....., was a little concerned about where I was on the wheel height, as well im still very new to this rig
Builds 1997 Lexus LX450 - Rexus the 500 HP LS SWAPPED LX450
- Thread starter bulhas
- Start date
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that hole earlier this year was a truck eater.....
im also used to wheeling with a snorkel....., was a little concerned about where I was on the wheel height, as well im still very new to this rig
- Thread starter
- #43
i wheeled the taco ALOT, but change is heights etc..., also I hate getting stuck, i also hate hate hate hate mud......
was also the first hole of the day, by the end of the weekend, I didnt care lol
was also the first hole of the day, by the end of the weekend, I didnt care lol
Nice write up! I had a Taco and miss it but the 80 is far superior. I was curious how you can lock the front axle of the Taco? Isn't it IFS or you do a SAS? Also if you're using the oil pressure gauge on the dash as an accurate reading I wouldn't. Take a manual reading with a gauge by pulling the sender. Use the FSM procedure and you should be good. Good luck and welcome to our world! 
- Thread starter
- #45
just getting ready to order some retrofit parts for my depots I got a while ago
thinking FXR 3.0's and Matchbox driving lights!!! The big question I have, and Im sure if I dig into some EWD ill find that it can be done, but can my driving lights and my high beams be turned on at the same time?? Has anyone done a write up??
thinking FXR 3.0's and Matchbox driving lights!!! The big question I have, and Im sure if I dig into some EWD ill find that it can be done, but can my driving lights and my high beams be turned on at the same time?? Has anyone done a write up??
- Thread starter
- #46
so I have an oppurtunity to trade my VR8000 for a 8274 single motor, I am considering, but I think the winch itself is too small yet for this rig
I have been reading up on the internet about double motors, just curious if anyone has any experience
I have been reading up on the internet about double motors, just curious if anyone has any experience
- Thread starter
- #47
god bless parts washers AHHHH
just tore the knuckle apart today, can't figure out why the birds were clicking, no soup, good grease, the one wheel bearing was REALLY REALLY loose, but overall things are good
Im going to clean the birfs tonight and get everything laid out for tomorrow, the races are in the freezer for the night, should be a nice easy going job tomorrow
just tore the knuckle apart today, can't figure out why the birds were clicking, no soup, good grease, the one wheel bearing was REALLY REALLY loose, but overall things are good
Im going to clean the birfs tonight and get everything laid out for tomorrow, the races are in the freezer for the night, should be a nice easy going job tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #48
for future knowledge the trunion bolt thread size is M12 x 1.5
I also hate whoever did the knuckles on this vehicle before me
I also hate whoever did the knuckles on this vehicle before me
- Thread starter
- #49
- Thread starter
- #50
tried to get some last minute 2013 runs in, and check trail conditions for my run Im hosting in a couple weeks..... 2014 is going to be an expensive start to the year.... blew up a birf.... can hardly turn at slow speeds..... sooooooo Im going to regear while Im at it
- Thread starter
- #51
trying to make sure this would work too, I have the e lockers but I dont see any difference in kits unlike the tacoma where as the axles are slightly different
Front
YG TLCF-488R [24197] - Ring and Pinion Set
YK TLC-REV-A [14123] - Master Kit
Rear
YG TLC-488 [24551] - Ring and Pinion Set
YK TLC-B [14122] - Master Kit
Front
YG TLCF-488R [24197] - Ring and Pinion Set
YK TLC-REV-A [14123] - Master Kit
Rear
YG TLC-488 [24551] - Ring and Pinion Set
YK TLC-B [14122] - Master Kit
- Thread starter
- #52
well some where some how someone shipped me rear chromolies.... not front...... soooo wheeling put on hold for this weekend
I have contacted the supplier all is good, I sent them a picture, I wont be shipping them back as I will swap in the rears when I do the rear swap in the near future, BUT for the time being the lexus is out of comission with a broken birf .... LOL
I am working on gettin the correct parts though....
I have contacted the supplier all is good, I sent them a picture, I wont be shipping them back as I will swap in the rears when I do the rear swap in the near future, BUT for the time being the lexus is out of comission with a broken birf .... LOL
I am working on gettin the correct parts though....
- Thread starter
- #53
trying out some new ideas for keeping people in the loop on my build
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4ojPHxq5Gg&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4ojPHxq5Gg&feature=youtu.be
Great pictures, and video!! Thanks for sharing with us. I liked the part of the video when you were driving through the snow (with the background music) , it was kind of hypnotic. Glad to hear that you are enjoying the LX!!
- Thread starter
- #56
thanks guys!!!! expect more like it Unfortunately my next video will not be with my truck in it exactly though the next build update of it, will be a little more exciting for parts
Unfortunately my next video will not be with my truck in it exactly though the next build update of it, will be a little more exciting for parts
- Thread starter
- #57
New video coming soon, had to use my new DD jeep GC diesel to tow the thing to a shop today
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #58
well I lost all my videos..... but I finally got time to do the chromoly birf/axle swap up front to replace the shrapnel on the passenger side
no pictures..... Ill take a picture of the broken parts later..... All said and done, regreased, and wheel bearings re set, got it done in around 6 hours for both sides, and was not racing by any means.... Thank god I spent some time rebuilding in december and fixing all the bitched threads
I also finally got around to installing the new AOE bumper I got back in the december group buy
My review of this bumper from an install stand point
Removing the factory bumper I was a little concerned of how little support toyota ued on the factory install, essentually 4 bolts to support the bumper was a little crazy. I removed the factory bumper in around 20 minutes, I turned the vehicle around to get a little sun as winters been a little long and +13C felt amazing. I moved the bumper and up into place and realized the factory tie downs needed to come off. As this bumper slides over the frame, I was not concerned about removing it(not overly heavy, but enough I really did not feel like doing it again.....) I slid the bumper into its final mounting point and realized the top mounting bolts already has threads??? Being anal, I cleaned them up with my tap, and threaded the supplied hardware from AOE ( AOE supplies your 4 bolts, 4 washers and 4 lock washers, nice but if including this, why not include all new hardware versus just the top). I already had the tap and die out so I cleaned the threads of the bolts and the factory mounted nuts. The bumper was built very very very well, It was very easy to install the new bolts no alignment issues I reused the factory mounting bolts versus going to get new hardware, I still need to install the extra two side bolts, I think I should be able to rob two from the factory bumper
4.5 Stars for construction, i think a small oversight is not including a turn signal point
3 for customer service...... I have no received the 12 volt outlet as promised
So glad Im the only in my neck of the woods with the bumper, the rig looks a 100x better than factory
no pictures..... Ill take a picture of the broken parts later..... All said and done, regreased, and wheel bearings re set, got it done in around 6 hours for both sides, and was not racing by any means.... Thank god I spent some time rebuilding in december and fixing all the bitched threads
I also finally got around to installing the new AOE bumper I got back in the december group buy
My review of this bumper from an install stand point
Removing the factory bumper I was a little concerned of how little support toyota ued on the factory install, essentually 4 bolts to support the bumper was a little crazy. I removed the factory bumper in around 20 minutes, I turned the vehicle around to get a little sun as winters been a little long and +13C felt amazing. I moved the bumper and up into place and realized the factory tie downs needed to come off. As this bumper slides over the frame, I was not concerned about removing it(not overly heavy, but enough I really did not feel like doing it again.....) I slid the bumper into its final mounting point and realized the top mounting bolts already has threads??? Being anal, I cleaned them up with my tap, and threaded the supplied hardware from AOE ( AOE supplies your 4 bolts, 4 washers and 4 lock washers, nice but if including this, why not include all new hardware versus just the top). I already had the tap and die out so I cleaned the threads of the bolts and the factory mounted nuts. The bumper was built very very very well, It was very easy to install the new bolts no alignment issues I reused the factory mounting bolts versus going to get new hardware, I still need to install the extra two side bolts, I think I should be able to rob two from the factory bumper
4.5 Stars for construction, i think a small oversight is not including a turn signal point
3 for customer service...... I have no received the 12 volt outlet as promised
So glad Im the only in my neck of the woods with the bumper, the rig looks a 100x better than factory
- Thread starter
- #59
also a tip for removing the factory tone rings, purchase a brass/copper flat chisel
Your probably thinking brass chisel??? I own them for doing valves, its kind of a weird for to own but the come in handy, put your birfied in a vise or between two benches, and slowly rotate it as your "pry" the tone ring off, it takes a little work but it comes off very nicely without heat!!!
Than to install on the new birfs, take a boil the tone ring in hot water, I prefer to not torch it, water is a very easy method to not overheat or warp the ring, I boiled mine for about 10 minutes, with the birfs sitting in the freezer, I took the birfs out, and than grabbed the tone rings, one small tap an they slid right into place on the new chromoly axles
Your probably thinking brass chisel??? I own them for doing valves, its kind of a weird for to own but the come in handy, put your birfied in a vise or between two benches, and slowly rotate it as your "pry" the tone ring off, it takes a little work but it comes off very nicely without heat!!!
Than to install on the new birfs, take a boil the tone ring in hot water, I prefer to not torch it, water is a very easy method to not overheat or warp the ring, I boiled mine for about 10 minutes, with the birfs sitting in the freezer, I took the birfs out, and than grabbed the tone rings, one small tap an they slid right into place on the new chromoly axles
- Thread starter
- #60
well as you build someone else's rig you really start to find things that are wrong...... as most of you know it was lifted when i got it, while yes some parts were of high quality the springs being OME j Springs, and good OME shocks, the biggest downfall on these trucks you cant just install a lift.... I was trying to make my rear ebrake a little more sensitive and figure out my travel issues in the rear and front well I found them......
the PO did not get control arm spacers installed... so I finally got around to fixing that today.... it took some love, and my favorite tool was able to handle it without any issues
old hardware was 12mm top mount, new is 9/16
old hardware was 14mm bolt on to the sway bar, new is 17mm
all the new stuff is zinc coated so should hold up better to rust
well here is the stock, all old, decrepit and rusted to hell
a quick comparison shot
and on to the installed pictures
and I dont think I ever posted this, a few months ago I installed these to help with the rear clunk I had, made a world of difference on the corners having an actual bushing in place, I also took the chance to install a greasable version
the PO did not get control arm spacers installed... so I finally got around to fixing that today.... it took some love, and my favorite tool was able to handle it without any issues
old hardware was 12mm top mount, new is 9/16
old hardware was 14mm bolt on to the sway bar, new is 17mm
all the new stuff is zinc coated so should hold up better to rust
well here is the stock, all old, decrepit and rusted to hell
a quick comparison shot
and on to the installed pictures
and I dont think I ever posted this, a few months ago I installed these to help with the rear clunk I had, made a world of difference on the corners having an actual bushing in place, I also took the chance to install a greasable version
