1997 Landcruiser engine rebuild question and ideas. (1 Viewer)

[lispeej]

Ok. So I've been contemplating if I should rebuild my motor or not. It has 272k miles now and I'm having to add a quart of oil every 500 miles or so. I also notice having to add coolant reservoir tank every now and then. I don't really mind topping of on fluids but hesitant to drive far and am afraid of being stranded somewhere far from home. This is my daily driver.
I've never done an engine rebuild before but wouldn't mind doing it too so I can learn.
What is the average cost of a rebuild if you do it yourself? What do most shops charge for an average rebuild?
Keep in mind I want new stuff (rings,seals,waterpump,gaskets,....and all parts recommended....etc).
I have a neighbor who said he'd charge me about $2000 for the job parts and labor (I pull motor and drop off). Is that a good price? He owns an engine rebuild shop. And most parts will be aftermarket.
Thanks

 

[patrickfinley]

Wow, do you commute a lot for work or just buy high mileage cars? All your past vehicles have really high miles.

You're probably looking at 5-6k for a full top and bottom build from a shop. 2k isn't bad if you think he can do it. Can you pick up OEM parts instead of aftermarket? The OEM got you 272k, you'd hate for the rebuild not to last as long on a bad gasket.

 

[lispeej]

I buy cars with slightly higher miles because it brings the asking price down a bit. I bought the cruiser with 177k miles. It has been good to me.
I do commute to work, and drive all over the bordering states for weekend getaways and my fishing/hunting trips. We also try to drive everywhere for our family vacations. Just came to San Diego and back last summer!

 

[jfz80]

If you got this far on oem id agree with above. Grab OEM at a discount through mud and then have him do the work perhaps depending in how long it can be down. Might be the best balance. Of course it depends on what you find inside and need. But if you are willing to learn and do as much work as you can you can pull it off for 3-3500. Check out concrete jungles build in FAQ. Or depending on how crazy yor get and how much work you farm out you can spend 6-10k. Check out nlxtcy sigline

 

[Howard705]

Have read on here a lot and not found much on the aftermarket motor part quality in 1FZEs. However All reman motors sold from all parts stores have to be using them advertising motors with warranty in the 3k range. Obviously they are being used with success. Getting another 272k on one may be a stretch but but you probably don't need to try to get that many miles on a 17 year old vehicle.

 

[patrickfinley]

CDan, perhaps Beno (Onur) could get you all the OEM parts you need for an engine rebuild with a Mud discount.

 

[NLXTACY]

Have you read thru my rebuild thread? Plenty of info there.

 

[KansasLX]

I had my motor rebuilt a few thousand miles ago. I picked up all oem parts for the rebuild. I received a large discount from a dealer when I ordered all the parts and paid cash. The parts guy was pretty cool about the discount for me, total cost was 1800 with all new rods, bearings, .20 over pistons, every gasket, plugs etc. basically everything for a full rebuild top and bottom end. I found a machinist local that could perform the work and total bill for him was 2100. So my total rebuild cost was just under 4k, I did replace the starter, alternator, ac compressor and radiator previously so I did not pay for those during rebuild but, received discounts on all those also.
Discount was at 30% from Midwest toyota and the parts guys name was Trent.

 

[bdg4512]

I had my motor rebuilt a few thousand miles ago. I picked up all oem parts for the rebuild. I received a large discount from a dealer when I ordered all the parts and paid cash. The parts guy was pretty cool about the discount for me, total cost was 1800 with all new rods, bearings, .20 over pistons, every gasket, plugs etc. basically everything for a full rebuild top and bottom end. I found a machinist local that could perform the work and total bill for him was 2100. So my total rebuild cost was just under 4k, I did replace the starter, alternator, ac compressor and radiator previously so I did not pay for those during rebuild but, received discounts on all those also.
Discount was at 30% from Midwest toyota and the parts guys name was Trent.

So did you tear it down and put it back together yourself or did the machinist handle that in addition to surfacing the head and decking the block?

 

[alia176]

If you want to learn, have the space, time and a flexible wife, I encourage you to take everything out of the engine bay yourself. Tear down to the short block and then take the bottom end and top end to your machine shop guy. Then reassemble the short block and turn it back into a long block by following the FSM closely.

This process will save you lots of money and you'll learn tons, prolly way more than you care to.

The caveat here is that you'll need to replace the ancillary stuff around the engine, simply due to age and that will drive up the cost. This is the famous phrase "while you're in there....." that you keep hearing about.

 

[landtank]

Rebuilding an engine as I type this.

Hasting rings, Clevite bearings and LT oil pump bushing.

The latter a shameless plug.

 

[KansasLX]

So did you tear it down and put it back together yourself or did the machinist handle that in addition to surfacing the head and decking the block?

I pulled the motor and tore it down to the rotating assembly. I separated the head from the block as well as all other sensors, accessories. The machinist took the rotating assembly apart, decked the block, re surfaced the head, bored the cylinders, re surfaced and polished the crank tore the head down cleaned and checked all tolerances did some polishing and re assembled after everything was to oem spec. I received the motor as a complete long block with the head installed. I did not have time to rebuild the motor myself and paid a premium for his services to do it for me. Machine work without re assembly was I think 8-900 if I remember right.

 

[tirewater]

If I were in your position I'd buy a used engine with 1/2 or less the miles of your current one.

Then do a top end rebuild of the used engine, install it & sell your old one.

 

[landtank]

With more than 10 heads being reworked my guy has only needed to resurface 1. IMO the most unnecessary auto charge in the industry.

 

[Rookie2]

Rick, if you were doing a head gasket pm, would do anything to the head other than clean the surface and putting back on? Or would you go ahead and send it out and the valves and seals done?

 

[landtank]

I always send it out. I did a valve adjustment once, once! That cost me in shims more than half the regrind where they nip the stem and reuse the installed shims.

On my current build we will not be decking the block or surfacing the head.

We will be using a Cometic gasket at .036" to set the piston to head clearance to .044" to help spark quench.

 

[bmw635]

I just rebuilt my engine with 275k miles 2 mos ago and I think you can just get away with doing head to fix headgasket to fix loosing coolant and valve stem seal to stop oil burning.

I burned alot of oil and it deposited on the pistons. I wasn't loosing coolant but decided to rebuilt because of high mileage but in the end, it didn't needed since almost nothing wears.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/787268-while-engine-rebuild-question.html

 

[Rookie2]

So valve grind and seals is all that really needs to be done to the head?

 

[DudeAbides]

On my current build we will not be decking the block or surfacing the head.

We will be using a Cometic gasket at .036" to set the piston to head clearance to .044" to help spark quench.

Rick, I was led to believe that a MLS gasket requires the block and head to be resurfaced? I don't have a friggin clue which is why I'm asking.

 

[bmw635]

So valve grind and seals is all that really needs to be done to the head?

Yes, my engine only needed valve stem seals to stop burning oil, valve guide were still good, shop only cleanup valve seat since it still seals. Shop did the rebuilt on the head and they said shims were good so they reuse, valve guides were good.

The oil leaks almost on every gaskets was what motivated me to pull entire engine. I used synthetic so that's why it show little wear but leaks. Piston rings were only 30% worn which gives you an idea of the rest of the components.