1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build (2 Viewers)

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build/Maint thread

I decided it was time to start ticking off bucket list items. I have always wanted a 70's wagon so here we go! I started to research importers and decided to use a Canadian importer for a couple of reasons. For Those of us who have went thru the process of importing a vehicle it can be a bit confusing. Be prepared to offer a pound of flesh because everybody along the way is going to get some from you.

#1 Canadians can import trucks that are only 15 years old.

This allows you to front load the import process a bit and hunt down a little bit newer truck before they hit the 25-year mark. It seemed to me as I watched the prices of Cruisers over a year or so that once a truck hits 25 years old the price goes up a bit more just because it was now US market available. But be aware there is an extra provincial tax so this is something to be considered, it's pretty minimal but it's still another cost.

#2 check out the better business bureau ratings for the selected importer. Yes, even Canada has one and I have found over the years it's a good indicator and will also allow you to see how long they have been doing their thing. To me a red flag is having no better business bureau ratings whatsoever. Nobody who imports vehicles is squeaky clean and it's how they resolve the issues that matter. I like to deal with reasonable adults :)

#3 storage fee's in Canada in general seemed way less than in Japan. I'm sure if you have a friend of a friend who lives in Japan you could buck this but... I don't know anybody who lives in Japan.

#4 the importer I used had boots on the ground in Japan, a broker of sorts who could Negotiate and check things out.

I'm sure there are tons of sources but to be honest after a year of watching and surfing auctions this is the place to locate a really nice truck.


For me it was then a process of working with my agent in Japan to hunt down trucks off this list and make some offers. It seems to me the Japanese love to Politely negotiate things.
 
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1997 Toyota Land Cruiser ZX Vin Plate.jpg


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216769 KM maint

All true love stories start out with Toyota parts!

Since this truck is new to me we will do Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Oil change and replace the accel pedal pad

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FJ73Texas

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Nice cruiser!

Are you using spacers with those wheels? Can you shed some more info on the wheels?
 
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Nice cruiser!

Are you using spacers with those wheels? Can you shed some more info on the wheels?
Sure no problem

The wheels are 17x7.5 spare steelie from any 5th gen 4runner
toyota part 4261135430

The tires
BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Radial Tire -LT265/70R17/C 112/109S

of course as you probably know... spacer are needed to get those 3.5+ backspaced wheels out to where the LC wheels sit.
I used some manual toyota hub spacer because the concentric ones will not work on the toyota floater axles with our sticks way out hubs.


spider trax uses all 10.9 hardware and it's good quality stuff.

honestly I don't like using wheel spacers... but I'm not going on any expiditions this winter so it's just road driving to the mall for me. I'm looking at other options for steelies with correct offset/backspace for LC in a 17"
 

ATL Cruiser

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Nice find! I was under the impression that Canada had cracked down on RHD models and taken many off the road. Is that not the case?

I would recommend changing the trans/diffs/transfer case fluids as well. Especially since you have an automatic.

I have the exact same truck as you, minus 5 years. Love it. Looking forward to following your build.
 

FJ73Texas

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Sure no problem

The wheels are 17x7.5 spare steelie from any 5th gen 4runner
toyota part 4261135430

The tires
BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Radial Tire -LT265/70R17/C 112/109S

of course as you probably know... spacer are needed to get those 3.5+ backspaced wheels out to where the LC wheels sit.
I used some manual toyota hub spacer because the concentric ones will not work on the toyota floater axles with our sticks way out hubs.


spider trax uses all 10.9 hardware and it's good quality stuff.

honestly I don't like using wheel spacers... but I'm not going on any expiditions this winter so it's just road driving to the mall for me. I'm looking at other options for steelies with correct offset/backspace for LC in a 17"

I ran the same style of steel wheels in 17" (17X6.5) on the PZJ70 I had without spacers but they were rare hilux euro spec steelies that were just a tad under 4" BS. They worked perfectly on the PZJ70 because it didn't have flares. Tried them on the HZJ77 and it looked bad with the factory flares.

This wheel type is my personal favorite.

PZJ70.jpg
 
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Nice find! I was under the impression that Canada had cracked down on RHD models and taken many off the road. Is that not the case?

I would recommend changing the trans/diffs/transfer case fluids as well. Especially since you have an automatic.

I have the exact same truck as you, minus 5 years. Love it. Looking forward to following your build.

the truck was never licenced in Canada. I just used them as the importer, if that makes sense? so I had to pay for transport Japan->Canada->US.


Right Hand Drive in pickering, ON has a relationship with agents in Japan. Even though it was a lot of waiting sooo much waiting... I would use them again.

I will change all the fluids. it's the first order of biz for sure.

any recomendations on LUBRICANTS?

thinking

Transmission
ATF D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II)

Transfer
API GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90

Diff
Hypoid gear oil API GL-5 SAE 80W - 90 or 80W

Engine Oil ( I live in cold climate )
Mobil Delvac 1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30 Heavy Duty Diesel

the 1HZ info I have seen just specs API grade CD or better
 
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Hi
Welcome to the crew. Nice rig. Thank you for sharing the pics..

Transfer
API GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90

Diff
Hypoid gear oil API GL-5 SAE 80W - 90 or 80W

Go for GL4 in the Transfer. Some GL5 and GL4/5 multi purpose oils may contain additives that interfere with soft metal alloys, e.g of the synchron rings.
The last character of your axle code is 5, so you have a limited slip differential (LSD) in the rear, which requires specific LSD oil (or additiv) of the said grade. (You may use LSD in the front, too, so you don't necessarily have to stock two grades of oil).
I recommend to also change coolant, brake- & clutch-fluids.

Have fun and enjoy your rig!
Cheers Ralf
 
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Of course a lot of the dash/climate bulbs are burnt. started digging into them.

I will leave the cluster alone for now, ordered new glass for it so once that comes in I will pop the cluster out and find out how many of those are burnt as well, it's not nearly as bright as it should be.

Questions if anybody knows?

Not sure if everything is 24 volt or not? looks like 24V 3 Amp? I knew getting into this it would be interesting.

how in the bloody fingers does the climate control front come off? I don't want to break it... just want to get the socket out so I can replace the bulb, I can't quite get my big sausage fingers into the correct position to get it out?

climate.png
 
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Those sockets come loose when twisted 90°. (Bajonet). As it's plastic on plastic, it might seize. A drip WD40 may help.
I can't help your sausage fingers 😉

If some regular service being due and some burned bulbs are all issues the truck has: Congratulations. Very lucky.
Cheers Ralf
 
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While I had the dash apart.... scope creeping....

The truck came with this kinda cool head unit but... it kind of works and kind of does not... so I will look at getting a generic double din at some point here...

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but then aftert staring to trace the wire rats nest..
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What the heck is all this stuff? like the AV club owned this truck? I mean... like maybe this was some kind of spy truck?

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well... at least I guess I got rid all that wire? kind of nice I left the plugs in place that are all labeled in english for speaker wires, power, illumination. so once I get a new head unit it should be pretty easy to figure out the factory plug wires.
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I've never pulled that assembly, but it's probably snagged on one of the cables. Do you have the manuals?

' 70-series - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/categories/70-series.29

Regarding bulbs, just change everything over to LED, which runs on either 24V or 36V. And they are WAY brighter. I get mine from Amazon.

I did once upon a time change all the bulbs in my 2000 4runner over to LED and promplty changed them back because my god way too bright. It's been a while so maybe things are better now but do you any links for bulbs you have used?
 

Gun Runner 5

First and Final Warning!!
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On my 77 Series we ended up with a 5 gallon bucket full of electrical do-dads, wires (many of which went no where) and several misc antennas. 😁
 

ATL Cruiser

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Wow. That's a lot of wires.
Regarding the bulbs. There's a bunch of sizes out there. I used these for the dome lights and one spot under the dash.

' Amazon product

' Amazon product

Be careful ordering LED's. Some blow out at 18V. Make sure they are rated for 24V+.
 

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