Build 1997 FZJ80 "No more big projects" Build

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Fitting the L83 into place went relatively smoothly. Torfab's engine mounts have two sets of holes, one for use with the 8 speed and the other for a 10 speed. The idea is to keep the transfer case in its original spot fore and aft. Since I'm using an 8L90, we started with the rear set of holes per the instructions. It was a snug fit, with about 1/4" between the firewall and the passenger head. We decided to use the other holes and I now have about 3/4" clearance, which I like better. The transfer case shifter still lines up closely and we just slotted the transmission mount holes in the crossmember.
Unfortunately, we realized I had a 6 speed flexplate on the motor so I had to pick up the one for an 8 speed. Just have to pull the engine out to make the swap and slide it back in. Not a huge deal.
Looking at other builds on Mud, I saw that they all used the Tejas Steel Works bracket to mount a Saginaw PS pump down where the vacuum pump came off. That results in a tight fit between the pump and steering gear. I'm using Swaptime's accessory drive which mounts a newer GM Type 2 pump with reservoir up high in front of the driver side head and uses a newer water pump design. So far, it looks like this will work well.

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Progress is rapid! The guys and I have been busy. We got the cooling system plumbed, power steering bled, and the brakes were upgraded with a bigger master cylinder and LSPV delete.
Jess cobbled together a temporary exhaust system with a couple of cats off his scrap pile and we took it for a drive! Still needs lots of small things, but I drove it about five miles back to my house so I can finish it up at home.

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This weekend, I made up transmission cooler lines with a combination of 3/8” aluminum hardlines and some short pieces of hose at the ends. Filled the transmission fully with synthetic ATF.
I used new replacement heater hoses for the Silverado the engine came out of. The hot side plugged right into the heater core, and the cold side just needed a coupler and a 90* section to meet up with the heater valve. Looks a little neater than big loops of bulk hose.
It was a little cold in the garage today, so I moved inside and fitted a momentary switch into the shift knob where the O/D switch sits. It will work with the 8L90 to allow tap shifting when in manual mode.

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Spent most of the day making a surround to adapt a Chevy Cruze fan (GM part number 39013322). Mitch at Swaptime suggested it as he uses it for a lot of LT swaps. It’s a Bosch brushless fan that can be PWM controlled by the ECM. It draws about 3 amps at 25% power, which is usually all you need.
Started with a 20x30.5” piece of 0.090 aluminum and traced the outline from the original plastic LC fan shroud. Cut that out and then mounted the Cruze fan. It fits really well with plenty of room between it and the water pump.

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Nice weather today, especially considering it's two days after Christmas! I pulled the 80 out in the driveway and parked it on the slope of my driveway to burp the cooling system. Took it for a little spin around the neighborhood to get the transmission up to temp, then parked it and drained the excess trans fluid. The 8L90 has a drain plug that you remove when the trans is between 131 and 149* and you let it drain until it slow to a trickle. Apparently, 12 quarts was about 2-3 too many!
Then I pulled the instrument cluster apart, removed the oil level warning bulb and A/T temp bulb (since they're not functional now) and swapped the burnt D bulb for the unnecessary L bulb. Took the two extra bulbs and put them in the Front and Rear Diff Lock spots for later... ;)

While I had it apart, I used the brilliant work of @NeverFinis Adjust tach to work with Swaptime MCM to calibrate my tachometer. I realized I could get a screwdriver in diagonally behind the tach without even removing it from the cluster. I gave it a tiny little CCW turn just to prove it would move. When I plugged the cluster back in, that was the perfect amount to get the tach to correlate with engine RPM from the OBD port!
Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good.
I also took this opportunity to use plastic polish on the clear part of the cluster and got most of the old scratches out.

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I've had a few people reach out to me asking for more details about my swap, so I'm going to add a few posts with info and lessons learned. I'll try to organize it by system to make it easier to reference, starting with engine/transmission selection and install.

1. Engine options: Torfab's mounts and transfer case adapters were the key to making this swap straightforward. I knew I wanted a Gen V motor, because that would allow me to pick something much newer than a Gen III and gain a little efficiency in the process. I chose the 5.3L L83 because it offers 355HP and 383 lb*ft of torque, while weighing about 200-250 pounds less than the 1FZ as well as significantly increasing the MPG. I totally understand that fuel economy isn't normally a priority if you are into Land Cruisers, but for me range is. My stock 1FZ and 33" tire combo was getting me about 13mpg in normal mixed driving, which only nets about 260 miles driving before the fuel light comes on. No big deal, but when you live in KC everything you want to see/do starts with an 8-10 hour drive to some place interesting. Western Kansas has some pretty long stretches where fuel stops are not exactly plentiful. I hope to get something like 16-18mpg when I'm done. Also, the L83 is a lower compression motor than the L86 6.2L so premium fuel is not needed.
If I really wanted more horsepower, I would consider the Chevy performance L8T crate engine. It's a 6.6L with 401HP and 464 lb*ft of torque. That's a real truck motor. If fuel economy was highest priority, I would follow @Drewthecarguy and go with the LM2 diesel.

2. Transmission options: I love the 6 speed in my 200 series. It never seems to be in the wrong gear. My Lexus IS-F was the first thing I drove with 8 speeds and I thought that was too many. It seemed like it was always shifting. Nevertheless, Tor's kit uses the 8L90 or 10L90. The 8L is actually a little easier to squeeze into the 80 because it's a little slimmer from it's centerline to the bottom of the pan so there's less interference with the front driveshaft than there would be with a 6L80, so I liked that feature.

3. Mounting: The Torfab mounts are an excellent design and made the process of installing the powertrain very simple. There are two sets of holes in the engine mounts to allow the combo to be placed further back when using the 8 speed transmission, which is a little shorter than the 10. We actually ended up mounting my engine in the forward set of holes for a little more clearance between the passenger cylinder head and firewall. It was only about 1/4" in the original location, and moving it forward only required slotting the holes in the crossmember. The transfer shifter still looks right and functions normally. I plan to upgrade the crossmember to a Gray Industries crossmember/skid plate.
 
Continued thoughts and lessons learned:

1. Accessory drive: Previous examples of LT swaps I had seen used the original accessories on the front of the engine, adding a Saginaw PS pump down low on the driver side where the vacuum pump previously sat. This is a decent option, but makes a very tight fit with the steering gear and most people end up adding a spacer to move the steering box outboard. I used the Swaptime USA accessory drive, which changes the water pump to the L87 design and adds a bracket for a GM Type 2 power steering pump up high. That location eliminates the close interference with the steering box and makes it easier to check/add PS fluid. I used adapters from @cruisermatt to run AN-6 lines for the PS cooler, which was a cheap Derale two row cooler I mounted to the front crossmember.

Swaptime USA accessory drive
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2. Fuel system: I tried copying others' work with a separate fuel pressure regulator and filter, but we found it was a very tight corner of the engine compartment for so many bends and lines. I noticed in Torfab's Youtube video that he just mounted a Corvette-style filter with integrated regulator and mounted it to the brake booster. So much simpler and quite a bit cheaper. I used the commonly available version that comes with AN-6 fittings from Speedway and again adapters from cruisermatt to connect to the OEM supply and return lines. For now, I am just using my original fuel pump but I have a Walbro 255 lph pump that I took out of my FJ40 LS swap because it was too loud. I've heard others have used that same pump in the 80 and also found it to be too loud. If that's the case for me, I'll probably buy a GM pump as they are a gerotor style that is nearly silent.

3. Cooling system: Tor uses a dual SPAL fan setup that apparently works great, but Mitch at Swaptime said I should look at the OEM fan for a 2018 Chevy Cruze. It's also a brushless PWM setup, but it's a single 17" fan instead of two smaller fans so it's considerably lighter. I thought it was worth trying and I think it should work just fine. The ECM turns the fan on slowly when the coolant temp gets to 207* and only spins fast enough to maintain a target temp of around 212*, which is the temp these engines are designed to run best at. With the Swaptime harness, I just needed to connect the pos/neg cables to the battery with a 60A fuse and connect the fan control wire. Done. No relays or thermistors to add.
I used the Gates 52291 hose for a 2020 Silverado 6.2 merged with the OEM FZJ80 hose via a coupler for the top hose and the Gates 52058 chevy bottom hose only required trimming to fit.
For heater hoses, I again started with GM replacement hoses from Dorman (626-780 and 626-755). I only had to add a coupler and some more 5/8 hose to get to the heater control valve. I could have done it all cheaper with bulk hose, but I like the look of the formed hoses and it makes for a slightly more finished/less messy appearance.

4. Throttle pedal: I used a Corvette-style pedal (19417903) and again tapped @cruisermatt for his very handy DBW pedal bracket, throttle delete plug and the cool little adapter to use the FZJ80 pedal pad. Saved me hours of fabrication, trial and error. I found the position to be a little too close to the brake pedal, but I drilled one hole in the bracket and rotated the pedal slightly to suit my taste.
5. Intake ducting: I started with a cheapo $80 eBay Silverado cold air intake kit, as it comes with a 90* aluminum tube and a straight section with the MAF sensor port. Added a 45* silicone elbow and we chopped it up to fit the original airbox. I love the fact that it looks like a Land Cruiser airbox and allows me to add a snorkel later if I want. (I swore I'd never cut another fender for a snorkel!)

5. Gearing: When I called @torfab to order his mounts and adapters, he pointed out to me that these drivetrains come out of trucks with MUCH taller gears, including 3.08, 3.23, 3.42 and only getting to 3.73 in the max trailer packages. Knowing my transfer case was almost 30 years old and seeing as how everything else in the drivetrain would be new or rebuilt, I had Jess do a full rebuild and add the Sumo overdrive gears in the high range. That gives me about 0.91 overdrive and makes my original 4.10 gears effectively 3.73. I'm upsizing the tires to 35s which will also help a little bit. If I still want lower cruising RPMs, it gets a little trickier to find 3.73 or 3.55 gears but it looks like they are available in Canada or Australia.

An FZJ80 with 33s and original gear ratios in the axles and TC has a crawl ratio in first gear of about 29:1, and my 8L90 with the overdrive gears (2.42 low range) and 35" tires will have a crawl ratio of about 45:1 in first gear, so I'll probably want to stay in 2nd to keep pace with other 80s.

Cruiser Matt's 80 series swap parts
 
This is a great thread. I have used a lot of the information in your build to get mine started.
 
To complete the swap and make it truly road-worthy, I took the rig to my local exhaust wizard. I showed him pictures from @mattnandie and asked him to follow the same general layout. It took him almost a week to fabricate, using all stainless steel and a bunch of mandrel bent pieces. I ended up with two catalytic converters, a Magnaflow 12198 muffler, and a small resonator about where the stock one sat. He put in a combination of V-bands and band clamps, so the system can be pulled apart for service access. He also put some heat shield wrap in a few places at my request.

It sounds pretty mean! A little louder than I would have liked, but it elicits a little giggle every time I put my foot in it.

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To complete the swap and make it truly road-worthy, I took the rig to my local exhaust wizard. I showed him pictures from @mattnandie and asked him to follow the same general layout. It took him almost a week to fabricate, using all stainless steel and a bunch of mandrel bent pieces. I ended up with two catalytic converters, a Magnaflow 12198 muffler, and a small resonator about where the stock one sat. He put in a combination of V-bands and band clamps, so the system can be pulled apart for service access. He also put some heat shield wrap in a few places at my request.

It sounds pretty mean! A little louder than I would have liked, but it elicits a little giggle every time I put my foot in it.

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Looks really clean . Do you happen to have a video ?
 
So far, the rig is driving great- tons of power. I initially just put 33s on the OEM wheels, because I hadn't planned to repower the rig so soon. I really like the look of the OEM wheels, but newer tire designs aren't coming out in 16 inch sizes, so I looked around for 17" wheels with machined finish and specs that would work with the 80. Landed on Icon Nuevos in 17x8.5 with 0 offset. I think they look almost as good as the OEM wheels.


After spending way too many hours researching tire options, I chose the Toyo Open Country AT3 in 315/75R17 size. They are supposed to offer excellent snow and wet performance, low road noise and very good fuel economy while still giving decent offroad performance. Fingers crossed.

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To complete the swap and make it truly road-worthy, I took the rig to my local exhaust wizard. I showed him pictures from @mattnandie and asked him to follow the same general layout. It took him almost a week to fabricate, using all stainless steel and a bunch of mandrel bent pieces. I ended up with two catalytic converters, a Magnaflow 12198 muffler, and a small resonator about where the stock one sat. He put in a combination of V-bands and band clamps, so the system can be pulled apart for service access. He also put some heat shield wrap in a few places at my request.

It sounds pretty mean! A little louder than I would have liked, but it elicits a little giggle every time I put my foot in it.

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Very nice.

Almost like I did mine, but I have much s***tier welds. 😁 The differences is that your person put the cats further back than I did and they ran the exhaust over that rear crossmember like stock. I hated doing the exhaust...

One of these days, I will spend the money to get a pro do the exhaust...
 
How's that fuel filter/regulator working out for you? I'm reading some stuff about potential for destructive cavitation in the high pressure fuel pump when running 58 PSI Corvette style regulators at anything other than idle or low speed cruising.

Not sure if that's an overblown statement or not because there isn't a ton of info out there about static pressure return style systems for LT swaps. Most guys seem to run 72 PSI fixed with an adjustable regulator and separate filter.
 
How's that fuel filter/regulator working out for you? I'm reading some stuff about potential for destructive cavitation in the high pressure fuel pump when running 58 PSI Corvette style regulators at anything other than idle or low speed cruising.

Not sure if that's an overblown statement or not because there isn't a ton of info out there about static pressure return style systems for LT swaps. Most guys seem to run 72 PSI fixed with an adjustable regulator and separate filter.
I'm not an engineer, but the vehicle pump is really only providing volume and a little pressure for the engine fuel pump, which pressurizes to about 400psi. I've seen the 72psi spec published as the required pressure, but I think Tor puts Corvette regulators in his builds and Mitch told me he sees more problems with the higher pressure pumps.
Live data during some hard acceleration runs in my rig didn't show any problem with fuel pressure with WOT for 8-10 seconds.
 
I'm not an engineer, but the vehicle pump is really only providing volume and a little pressure for the engine fuel pump, which pressurizes to about 400psi. I've seen the 72psi spec published as the required pressure, but I think Tor puts Corvette regulators in his builds and Mitch told me he sees more problems with the higher pressure pumps.
Live data during some hard acceleration runs in my rig didn't show any problem with fuel pressure with WOT for 8-10 seconds.
That's great news, thanks. I really like the simplicity of your fuel setup so if it's working well for you I may give it a try. Considering a lot of the online info is for guys planning to run big horsepower in their street/strip cars, I kind of figured the higher pressure regulators might be more important in that scenario. I'm hoping for reliable stock power...

Great job with the build!
 
What a great thread; thank you for sharing! Rig looks great and I'd imagine its a-lot of fun with the added power of the LS.
Keep up the good work.
 
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