1995 instrument cluster lights mess.

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Rusty Cruiser

Rusty Cruiser

Joined
Jul 21, 2024
Threads
24
Messages
126
Location
Coastal, SC USA
Today I took the instrument cluster out to see about the P and D lights being burned out (I swapped a few around to verify they were) . I've also noticed several indicator lights which I believe I should being seeing when starting ( A/T Temp, Oil Level, Brake) do not illuminate. When I pulled the cluster out, I found a bunch of masking tape covering an area. I peeled the tape off and found a small relay pictured below that the tape was attempted to hold onto the board. I also found a few spots that were supposed to have bulbs that did not (Air Bag, Oil Level, one pictured I'm not sure what it is). I also found one blank spot that had a bulb (my cluster has two blank spots with a bulb hole but no "window", not sure if that is normal or not.
I swapped a couple of bulbs around to check to see if A/T temp, Oil Level, and Brake do in fact illuminate when starting. I had a feeling the loose relay thing is what activated them and I tested this by holding the relay in place while cranking and then cranking again without it. They all lit up while holding the relay in place but did not when I removed it.
What is the indicator light shown in the pic below?
Is toyota the best source for replacement bulbs or are these some kind of universal bulbs? Do they come with the plastic turn in piece or do I need to source those for where I have missing bulbs? Thanks!

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I did a bit of searching and I think the mystery light is an optional low tire pressure indicator...can anyone confirm that?
Besides doing a better tape on job or possibly supergluing the relay back on, I don't see another way to get it on there. The inside of the slots on the main board are routed out which is keeping the relay from attaching as it should. If I just leave it off, will the A/T Temp and Oil Level indicators still function? If I unplug the respective sensors will that light up the indicators showing they are working? My "Brake" indicator still works when the parking brake is on so I'm guessing the other two will still function normally.

Do any of our preferred US based suppliers sell bulb kits?
 
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I recently replaced the bulbs in my cluster. After entirely too much thought and research, I went with OEM bulbs. Reasons: 1. I’m a bit of a stickler for OEM on most things. 2. I read too many instances of individuals replacing LEDs a few years down the road. 3. OEM lasts a long time (the only bulb burnt out was my D light). If you go OEM, the bases and bulbs separately. I got most of mine from partsouq.

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Rusty Cruiser said:
ok thanks! Does it use the mass airflow sensor?
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It's attached to your airbox. Good info in here:

Basko

Thread 'Air filter sensor'

Hello everyone.

Question:

I have the intention to install a vacuum sensor in the intake air to check the status of contamination of the air filter HDJ TLC 100. In some models of 80 and 100 is already built into the system notices a dirty filter light that indicates the board, but mine did not come with that, so I placed one interested, as I see it very useful.

I was figuring out the market and get different types of vacuum sensors, and electronic viewfinder, but there are different ranges of pressure, so I like to know if anyone knows what is negative pressure (vacuum) between the...

Only thing I can think of with that little relay box is it might be full of diodes. When IGN on engine not running, they all light up. When engine running they all turn off upon signal from alternator charging. If you tested again holding the box in place but with the alternator warning light in place and then again with it removed this might confirm, but not sure it will help you actually resolve the issue.
 
Stylo07 said:
I recently replaced the bulbs in my cluster. After entirely too much thought and research, I went with OEM bulbs. Reasons: 1. I’m a bit of a stickler for OEM on most things. 2. I read too many instances of individuals replacing LEDs a few years down the road. 3. OEM lasts a long time (the only bulb burnt out was my D light). If you go OEM, the bases and bulbs separately. I got most of mine from partsouq.

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I'm thinking about converting mine back to factory. The PO converted to LED, and they are too bright. I have them turned down to where I can't even see my climate buttons, and then lights like the turn signals run at full brightness and are obnoxiously bright. Then some of them flicker or are burned out, and it's just a really bad "mod".

How hard is it to get the cluster out, and how many bulbs are there in total?
 
COS80 said:
I'm thinking about converting mine back to factory. The PO converted to LED, and they are too bright. I have them turned down to where I can't even see my climate buttons, and then lights like the turn signals run at full brightness and are obnoxiously bright. Then some of them flicker or are burned out, and it's just a really bad "mod".

How hard is it to get the cluster out, and how many bulbs are there in total?
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It's not too hard to get it out but it takes some wiggling once you get it loose to actually get it out. There are quite a few bulbs (and several different sizes) if you want to do them all. That's why I was hoping a vendor might sell a "kit" rather than finding and selecting them all on Partsouq. Just the trans shifter indicator has 9 bulbs alone. There are 14 slots across the bottom for various indicator lights, backlights for tach, speedo, other gauges, blinkers, etc.
 
COS80 said:
I'm thinking about converting mine back to factory. The PO converted to LED, and they are too bright. I have them turned down to where I can't even see my climate buttons, and then lights like the turn signals run at full brightness and are obnoxiously bright. Then some of them flicker or are burned out, and it's just a really bad "mod".

How hard is it to get the cluster out, and how many bulbs are there in total?
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Great point about the brightness variance.

Mine is a ‘94, which, as I understand, is considerably more difficult to remove than in a ‘95-‘97.

Once you have the cluster out, it’s easy. You do have to remove the PRND2L/PRND321 assembly from the housing separately, which can be tricky with one set of phalanges due to three clips that need to be released.

Sorry, I’m not sure how many bulbs there are in total.

FWIW, I did my climate control panel, too.

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COS80 said:
Mine needs to go one way or the other - all LED or all incandescent. Due to the brightness of the turn signals, I'm still thinking going back to stock is the ticket.
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That would obviously be my recommendation.

Also, while I was in there, I replaced the clear, plastic cover over the gauges. It’s $3X, so not too bad.

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Stylo07 said:
That would obviously be my recommendation.

Also, while I was in there, I replaced the clear, plastic cover over the gauges. It’s $3X, so not too bad.

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After looking at the parts list, I'm just going to let them burn out and guess. 😆
I hate trying to undo other people's work, and I'll ever figure this out - details like where the ones with green caps go.
 
Stylo07 said:
I recently replaced the bulbs in my cluster. After entirely too much thought and research, I went with OEM bulbs. Reasons: 1. I’m a bit of a stickler for OEM on most things. 2. I read too many instances of individuals replacing LEDs a few years down the road. 3. OEM lasts a long time (the only bulb burnt out was my D light). If you go OEM, the bases and bulbs separately. I got most of mine from partsouq.

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Do you have part numbers handy? My D has been burned out for 13+ years but my fuel and voltmeter burned out last year. It hasn't been a problem unless driving at night with a thirsty Cruiser.
 
lumbee1 said:
Do you have part numbers handy? My D has been burned out for 13+ years but my fuel and voltmeter burned out last year. It hasn't been a problem unless driving at night with a thirsty Cruiser.
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I’m sorry, I don’t. Partsouq.com has parts diagrams that are helpful. Cruiserparts.net was helpful with getting some of the bulbs, but they’re much more expensive than partsouq.
 
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