1993 Land Cruiser - FZJ80 - Aftermarket Keyless Entry

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Joined
Apr 28, 2005
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First off, hello!

I actually own a 1993 Land Cruiser that has been kept in relatively good condition. The only pressing issue with it now is that the driver side door lock mechanism is getting shaky again from overuse.

I then decided to purchase a Bulldog Security KE150 Keyless Entry system to hopefully alleviate stress from the doorlock. (I actually lock/unlock the doors upwards of 20x a day.)

But before I even tear in to anything, or rather, before I even begin, I want to know what I am doing. The documentation on this product is sparse.

However, it seems I really only need to make 3 "connections"...

12V CONSTANT - BLACK & WHITE/RED - IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
POWER LOCK - BLUE/BLACK - IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS
POWER UNLOCK - BLUE/YELLOW & BLUE/ORANGE - IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS

Unfortunately, I have not been able to find these wires or even a way to access them. If someone could show me the right information on where these wires are located exactly and more importantly, how I can access them in a 1993 Land Cruiser, I would be very appreciative.

I will be grateful of any and all suggestions, and appreciate you reading this.

Thank You
 
the whole driver's side door arm window/lock switch unit pops off if you apply gentle pressure from the front. You can then unplug the harness.

If I were you I would try a dry run putting the keyless unit wires into the open harness holes and identify the wires that make the locks work.

Once it works I would try to relocate the same wires inside the drivers side kick panel (the plastic trim piece on the left of the driver's foot well) or above it and actually do the splice there. The wires all travel in a tight loom inside the door and you would have to take the whole door liner piece off and break and reseal the plastic inner seal on the door if you did the splice at the harness and then tried to run the wires back to the keyless unit. That's not that hard to do but no sense in making life hard for yourself. If you have to do it do a search on speaker install here and you will find good step by step instructions to egtting the door trim off.
 
After some force, I finally got the window/lock unit to pop out. By holes I'm guessing you mean disconnecting the harness from the switch unit and inserting the cords from my keyless entry unit before going further.

I also did manage to remove the kick panel, but I didn't see where to go from there-- it was also a little dark outside.
 
ddfx said:
After some force, I finally got the window/lock unit to pop out. By holes I'm guessing you mean disconnecting the harness from the switch unit and inserting the cords from my keyless entry unit before going further.

I also did manage to remove the kick panel, but I didn't see where to go from there-- it was also a little dark outside.

yes i mean stick the wires into the harness so you confirm which wires to splice into becasue when you find them again in the kick panel or under the dash you don't want to be making experimental splices.

I do not know exactly where the wires go once in the kick panel. You will have to locate them based on where the loom goes into the quarter panel from the door which is below the upper hing iirc.
 
Well I got the window/lock panel off, and I stuck the wires from the kit in to the correct holes. I know I did it right as if I crossed the power and the lock/unlock wires the locks did as told.

However, I couldn't get the remote to work with the receiver unit. When I examined the unit, a lot of the transistors were sideways so I ripped the unite apart and straightened it.

I think the [cheap] unit is broken... unless I'm missing something?

--edit--

Checked the BulldogSecurity website and found this in the troubleshooting guide--

KE-100, 150, 1702:

Q: 1. Connected unit as stated in manual but unit does not function or click inside when button is pressed.

A1. Check and make sure that the RED wire is connected to 12 volts constant and the BLACK is to a good ground.

A2. Check the remote make sure it does not have PTC on the back of the remote printed on the plastic.

My remote DOES have PTC printed on the back in plastic... great.
 
When you get another one w/o the PTC thing, repost and I'll tell you where the wires are. It's a piece of cake, and I owe someone else this information as well.

Rgds,

DougM
 
Once you guys figure this out, post a review and directions. I'd like to add keyless entry to my '93.
 
Well I had to RMA the unit... unfortunately I had already sent the package before eyeing the remote laying on my microwave oven.

This could be a while.
 

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