1993 80 for $6500??? 262k mi

[blupaddler]

So...my search has now lead me to a 1993 80 Landcruiser with Diff locks, leather, blah, blah, bah. Only thing is it is white... and it has 262k miles on it. The vehicle is original owner and has been maintained by a local toyota dealer for its entirity.

I know it has alot...ALOT of miles. But, the price is right. My intention for the vehicle is to wheel it and take it on back country/expedition trips. So, I would probably end up replacing most of the systems anyway.

The big question is what do you all think? Too many miles? Should I wait and save more $$$ or...
Thanks

robb

 

[landtank]

Check the front axle out closely and if everything works make a reasonable offer, say $5500.00 and go for it.

 

[cruiserman]

I wouldn't go any higher than $5k.

 

[G-Cat]

I'd want to be without doubt that it has received top-shelf maintenance. Also wouldn't hurt to make any offer contingent on the truck passing (you decide) a compression test performed at the Toyota house. And 5K sounds pretty fair to both parties. Good luck.

 

[Landpimp]

I agree, thats about fair, if nothing major is wrong......

Rob(Radd Cruisers) picked up almost the same rig, cept green and a 94, 250k, one owner, diff locks, ect. Runs well, good service, lots of records........needed rad, shocks and getting the diff locks working

[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=12245;start=msg112390#msg112390 date=1078010632]
I wouldn't go any higher than $5k.
[/quote]

 

[Ben6]

White may not be a bad thing, especially with a 1993. I'm not sure how accurate this information is, but in 1991 I worked as a sales person at a toyota dealership for about a month (I needed some spare cash before going to grad school). I was told by the used car manager that the white paint held up longer, something about it being thicker. Additionally, when I was having a prepurchase inspection on the 1994 I just bought (it is white) the "dent wizard" guy at a local Lexus dealership said that it was harder to see dents in the white paint. At that point I relayed what I'd heard about it being thicker. He said he wasn't sure about thicker, but that it was the only color in the earlier years that didn't get the clearcoat. He said the clear coat had a tendency to peel off. Consequently he felt that the white paint jobs held up longer. Anyway, take that for what it's worth. If any of that is inaccurate, someone please correct me.

 

[lagwagon]

If you are a mechanic it would be great. Realize it is getting towards the point of a lot of rebuilding. If you want an expedition vehicle you would want reliability. You do not want to change the 1FZ on the road. I trust my 176k '94 to go to the end of the world at this point. Doesn't even rattle. That said I would like a white 80 and have a low mileage motor waiting

 

[hpantier]

The reason i bought an 80 is that I have 2 frinds with them and have always been amazed at their reliability. One of my frinds has a 94 with about 190k on it now...the other has a 93 with around 240k. Both of their trucks run like tops - if you didn't look at the odometer, you'd never guess either had over 100k.

I guess my point is...for 5 grand...you might just get a great vehicle with a lot of miles still left in it.

 

[cruiserdan]

When considering what to do about/with a vehicle with high mileage think about the wear points and be proactive in attending to them.

Stuff that doesnt usually "wear out":

Frame
Body panels
Lighting housings
non-moving components, ETC

Stuff to replace that is "consumable"

Ignition components, to include spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor housing and igniter. Possibly engine ECU at some point.

All the light bulbs.

Wheel bearings, front and rear, and associated seals, ETC

Front axle job. (knuckles)

Springs and shocks, suspension arm bushings.

Body mounts and possibly door hinges or latches.

Various engine consumables such as water pump, PS pump, A/C system, alternator, starter, and so on.

In essence, think about what will take you out of action on the road (or trail) and replace or service it.

 

[semlin]

Big issue is the motor and how truck has been driven. Compression test for sure. Test drive it and listen for rattles, shakes etc... For another $4k or less you could get something with 130k less miles on the odometer. That's ten years worth of normal driving. You will spend at least $4k when you rebuild.

Depending on maintenance you will be replacing a lot of the consumable things Dan mentions. However, if you value your truck you would probably doing it with a 125k vehicle too, and some of these items will likely have already been replaced by the PO on the very high mileage vehicle.

I would add the emission control systems as a consumable to worry about if you are in a state with emission testing where you have to get it up to spec. There are a few things that can require replacement: catyltic converter, EGR valve, modulator, vsv valve, o2 sensor, plus many more things that can require cleaning.

 

[medtro]

[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=12245;start=msg112663#msg112663 date=1078078653]

Stuff to replace that is "consumable"

Ignition components, to include spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor housing and igniter. Possibly engine ECU at some point.

[/quote]

Dan,

What is "consumed" in the distributor housing and igniter?

medtro

 

[tltaylor22]

I bought my 93 with 240K for $5000. I Knew that the knuckles needed rebuilding, but I ended up replacing everthing in the front end except the ring and pinion, $1300 in parts. I did a compression test prior to purchasing it and it checked out just a little more worn than the 96 a friend just bought with 130k. I also checked with LKQ used auto parts and a used motor would be about $1700, Tranny $1500...

Trent Taylor

 

[Jim_Chow]

[quote author=Ben6 link=board=2;threadid=12245;start=msg112451#msg112451 date=1078019367]
White may not be a bad thing, especially with a 1993. I'm not sure how accurate this information is, but in 1991 I worked as a sales person at a toyota dealership for about a month (I needed some spare cash before going to grad school). I was told by the used car manager that the white paint held up longer, something about it being thicker. Additionally, when I was having a prepurchase inspection on the 1994 I just bought (it is white) the "dent wizard" guy at a local Lexus dealership said that it was harder to see dents in the white paint. At that point I relayed what I'd heard about it being thicker. He said he wasn't sure about thicker, but that it was the only color in the earlier years that didn't get the clearcoat. He said the clear coat had a tendency to peel off. Consequently he felt that the white paint jobs held up longer. Anyway, take that for what it's worth. If any of that is inaccurate, someone please correct me.
[/quote]

If it helps, the white paint on my '86 runner is holding up fine..just wax the vehicle a lot to cut UV. White and black technically aren't colors. The color of a vehicle is the wavelength(s) of light that it doesn't absorb. Red vehicles fade the fastest. My theory (someone correct me if I'm wrong) to why is that blue, at the other end of the spectrum (and UV, etc.) has a shorter wavelength (like 490nm w/ 700nm vs red) and, hence, higher energy. If a vehicle is red, that means it reflects the red wavelength but absorbs all others. White reflects all wavelengths, so it (at least theoretically) should hold up better to sun. Conversely, black absorbs all wavelengths (don't forget the wavelengths just outside the visible band like infra-red [heat]). Depending on where you live, that may dictate the color (I live in AZ, hence I'd prefer a white vehicle and dark green/blue/black is out of the question).

 

[Jim_Chow]

That's a lot of miles. Isn't the design life of the 1FZ engine (before an overhaul) something like 300K miles, and at 300K, you need a new timing chain (and probably a lot of other stuff like new valve seals/guides, maybe new rings, water/oil pump, HG). Any way to get a compression test done to check the rings?

 

[cruiserdan]

[quote author=medtro link=board=2;threadid=12245;start=msg112940#msg112940 date=1078117099]
Dan,

What is "consumed" in the distributor housing and igniter?

medtro
[/quote]

The distributor shaft wears and timing will vary, in a worst case the reluctor will strike the signal generator.

Igniters, although thay contain no moving parts, can become problematic at that age and mileage.

 

[dawgdaze]

There is a sweet totally stock 1992 here in Georgia with only 114,000 miles. He is firm at 6,500.00.

 

[Ben6]

dawgdaze,

Where in Georgia? I have a friend who is looking for one.