1992 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER PRADO EX TURBO DIESEL

[Barba Truko]

Hello guys,

Obviously, I'm new here and with LC too, but I came across this "JDM" 92 LC Prado at a local dealer here in South Florida.
I'm thinking of buying it, but I would like to have an idea of what am I getting into before doing it.

Any advice is very well appreciated.

 

[coldtaco]

read up on the 2L-TE

 

[JuanJ]

read up on the 2L-TE

Hello,

x2.

Read @GTSSportCoupe 's threads on this particular engine with special attention.

This is one case of watch very closely before you buy.





Juan

 

[Barba Truko]

read up on the 2L-TE

Hello,

x2.

Read @GTSSportCoupe 's threads on this particular engine with special attention.

This is one case of watch very closely before you buy.





Juan

Thank you @JuanJ / @coldtaco

From what I have read so far I think I'm going to pass on this one.
What diesel engine would be a reliable option?

 

[coldtaco]

2L-TE can be a good engine, you just have to asses the condition and do a bunch of work on it to make it remain reliable. KZ engines seem to have less problems as a Japan market 2L-TE. The 2L-TE seems mostly troublesome that came from the Japan market. The only engine that you should for sure stay away from is the 2.5 italian diesel found in Spanish market. 3B, 3BT, 2H, 12HT are all good engines if in good shape but parts availability gets less and less. HZ, 1HD, are newer engines with good parts support. The HZ is still being built. The PZ is also a good engine but any parts that are unique to the PZ seem to be getting scarce.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thank you @JuanJ / @coldtaco

From what I have read so far I think I'm going to pass on this one.
What diesel engine would be a reliable option?

In a nutshell, any toyota indirect injection diesel WITHOUT a turbo will be reliable. And any toyota direct injection diesel with or without turbo will be reliable.

Of course, newer with lower kms and good maintenance is what you want.

I was going to mention some motors, but I see @coldtaco just responded also with this.

 

[Barba Truko]

The focus then should be on HZ, 1HD, and KZ in that order.
Anyway before I buy anything I will inform myself properly and the best way for that is by asking here.

thank you guys.

 

[misterclean]

I think it's still worth a look if the price and condition of the truck is right. 2L-TEs are known for their head issues, but the 1KZ is not entirely impervious to issues either.

Other things to look for in a 70-series regardless of engine type is rust - typical problem areas are at the inside bottom of the doors, rocker panels, and rear quarter panels down by the mudflaps. The area surrounding the windshield as well as behind the rear pop-out glass on the J78s can be an issue too. The frame can and will also rust, though that is a bit easier to see with a quick glance. Depending on your tolerance to these things, you might want a rig with less rust.

How many KMs are on the LJ78 you posted? MX is key for the 2L-TE and a lot of issues with it can be solved relatively easy - deleting EGR, installing gauges, intercooler setup, etc.

One last thing to think about - the other "heavy-duty" 70 Series models have leaf spring suspension all around as well as 24V electrical systems - if that might get in the way of your build or daily driving lifestyle, a light duty Prado might be for you. If the 2L-TE seems like too much work, a KZJ78 with the 1KZTE would be a better option. Either way though, high mileage rigs that have not had MX done will need all the baseline work performed to get them running, driving, and stopping nicely. I'm going to guess that this LJ78 or any J78 you end up going with will need a timing belt+water pump+fan clutch service, full fluid change, brake rotors+pads FR+RR with possible caliper rebuilds all the way around. The front knuckles and bearings will likely be due for a rebuild as well, and from the looks of those photos, the suspension will need replacement.

It's a nice looking rig from the photos and I think an LJ78 is still a very capable platform, but if I could buy one all over again, I'd list out all the larger repair costs before pulling the trigger. If you do end up with one, I think you'll be happy either way!

 

[BushyBrow]

I would suggest getting pics of under the vehicle to look for rust, scaling, loads of undercoat or bubbling under the undercoat.

 

[Barba Truko]

I think it's still worth a look if the price and condition of the truck is right. 2L-TEs are known for their head issues, but the 1KZ is not entirely impervious to issues either.

Other things to look for in a 70-series regardless of engine type is rust - typical problem areas are at the inside bottom of the doors, rocker panels, and rear quarter panels down by the mudflaps. The area surrounding the windshield as well as behind the rear pop-out glass on the J78s can be an issue too. The frame can and will also rust, though that is a bit easier to see with a quick glance. Depending on your tolerance to these things, you might want a rig with less rust.

How many KMs are on the LJ78 you posted? MX is key for the 2L-TE and a lot of issues with it can be solved relatively easy - deleting EGR, installing gauges, intercooler setup, etc.

One last thing to think about - the other "heavy-duty" 70 Series models have leaf spring suspension all around as well as 24V electrical systems - if that might get in the way of your build or daily driving lifestyle, a light duty Prado might be for you. If the 2L-TE seems like too much work, a KZJ78 with the 1KZTE would be a better option. Either way though, high mileage rigs that have not had MX done will need all the baseline work performed to get them running, driving, and stopping nicely. I'm going to guess that this LJ78 or any J78 you end up going with will need a timing belt+water pump+fan clutch service, full fluid change, brake rotors+pads FR+RR with possible caliper rebuilds all the way around. The front knuckles and bearings will likely be due for a rebuild as well, and from the looks of those photos, the suspension will need replacement.

It's a nice looking rig from the photos and I think an LJ78 is still a very capable platform, but if I could buy one all over again, I'd list out all the larger repair costs before pulling the trigger. If you do end up with one, I think you'll be happy either way!

This one is tagged at 16k with +/- 143,500 Miles | +/-230,800 KM
Taking into consideration all these suggestions, what would be in your opinion a rough number to carry on with the repairs? And in order of importance, what should be the first task?
I work from home so I would primarily use it to go to the grocery store and the beach on weekends, offroading is not on my list, at least for now.

 

[Barba Truko]

I would suggest getting pics of under the vehicle to look for rust, scaling, loads of undercoat or bubbling under the undercoat.

I will ask the salesperson for those pics, maybe I will pass by tomorrow and take them myself.

 

[misterclean]

This one is tagged at 16k with +/- 143,500 Miles | +/-230,800 KM
Taking into consideration all these suggestions, what would be in your opinion a rough number to carry on with the repairs? And in order of importance, what should be the first task?
I work from home so I would primarily use it to go to the grocery store and the beach on weekends, offroading is not on my list, at least for now.

Rough estimate for parts only on a knuckle rebuild, replacement suspension, gauge install, and full timing+V-belt service will be around $2000-$2500 depending on what parts you decide to spring for. Half of that estimate will go to shocks and springs, which cost upwards of $1200 these days.

I'm on my second LJ-7X/2L-TE and if I could recommend a priority list, it would be as follows:

1. Timing Belt, Water Pump, Fan Clutch Rebuild (Includes coolant flush & new thermostat)
2. Fluids: Trans Flush, Engine Oil, Power Steering
3. Pyrometer, Water Temp, Boost Gauge Install
4. EGR System Delete (can be performed at the same time as #3)
5. Front Knuckle Rebuild w/ Front & Rear Diff + Transfer Case Fluid Drain & Fill (if necessary)
6. When performing #3, it's best to tackle front brakes and address any issues with the front e-lockers
7. Suspension refresh: shocks, springs, steering damper, radius & tie rods

As a heads up, the list above is often considered "baseline", but many items do not need to be replaced immediately after purchase. I would say that #1,2,3 are absolutely necessary, while the others can wait while you feel out the truck to see what other care it needs.

I hope this does not deter you in making a purchase. I bought my first LJ almost blind and sight unseen from the auctions in Japan. It had 270,000 KM and was not without its issues, but I absolutely fell in love with it, enough to go ahead and search for another one.

If you're planning to use the rig for grocery shopping and weekend beach runs, you'll be good addressing the first half of the list above and progressively working on getting the rest sorted out as you find time. Last note, I'm not particularly sure if 16K is par for the course in 2H 2023, but I do know that figure could get you a KZJ7X 2-3 years ago. If you could manage to shave a bit off the price, that would be ideal. Again, that would all depend on what the underbody and the frame looks like. From the photos posted earlier in the thread, it does look clean for the age and miles.

I hope that helps, and I'm totally looking forward to seeing you in an 70 Series! It truly is an otherworldly experience!

 

[Barba Truko]

Rough estimate for parts only on a knuckle rebuild, replacement suspension, gauge install, and full timing+V-belt service will be around $2000-$2500 depending on what parts you decide to spring for. Half of that estimate will go to shocks and springs, which cost upwards of $1200 these days.

I'm on my second LJ-7X/2L-TE and if I could recommend a priority list, it would be as follows:

1. Timing Belt, Water Pump, Fan Clutch Rebuild (Includes coolant flush & new thermostat)
2. Fluids: Trans Flush, Engine Oil, Power Steering
3. Pyrometer, Water Temp, Boost Gauge Install
4. EGR System Delete (can be performed at the same time as #3)
5. Front Knuckle Rebuild w/ Front & Rear Diff + Transfer Case Fluid Drain & Fill (if necessary)
6. When performing #3, it's best to tackle front brakes and address any issues with the front e-lockers
7. Suspension refresh: shocks, springs, steering damper, radius & tie rods

As a heads up, the list above is often considered "baseline", but many items do not need to be replaced immediately after purchase. I would say that #1,2,3 are absolutely necessary, while the others can wait while you feel out the truck to see what other care it needs.

I hope this does not deter you in making a purchase. I bought my first LJ almost blind and sight unseen from the auctions in Japan. It had 270,000 KM and was not without its issues, but I absolutely fell in love with it, enough to go ahead and search for another one.

If you're planning to use the rig for grocery shopping and weekend beach runs, you'll be good addressing the first half of the list above and progressively working on getting the rest sorted out as you find time. Last note, I'm not particularly sure if 16K is par for the course in 2H 2023, but I do know that figure could get you a KZJ7X 2-3 years ago. If you could manage to shave a bit off the price, that would be ideal. Again, that would all depend on what the underbody and the frame looks like. From the photos posted earlier in the thread, it does look clean for the age and miles.

I hope that helps, and I'm totally looking forward to seeing you in an 70 Series! It truly is an otherworldly experience!

Feels overwhelming, to be honest with you, but from what I have seen/read it is part of the process of getting into the hobby.
There is no project that does not come with more work than you previously anticipated.

I will think about it and study my options because I got myself into another project a few months ago that is consuming all my time, not just my free time. (Being a father is tough).

Thank you so much for the knowledge shared, really appreciate it.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Feels overwhelming, to be honest with you, but from what I have seen/read it is part of the process of getting into the hobby.
There is no project that does not come with more work than you previously anticipated.

I will think about it and study my options because I got myself into another project a few months ago that is consuming all my time, not just my free time. (Being a father is tough).

Thank you so much for the knowledge shared, really appreciate it.

All these 30 year old cruisers will need similar baseline work if they're fresh from Japan. They're definitely projects and take time/money/effort. So if you're not really passionate about it and just want to drive, then maybe it's not the right thing at this point.