Name: Andy
Location : Phoenix, AZ
Contact: Email
Price - $9,200 with 5Zigen wheels/tires, $8,300 w/ sawblades
Email- admin@yotamd.com
1990 Toyota Supra Targa 7MGTE - $68,000 in records - 340,000 well-aged miles
Enthusiast owned. Garaged most its life. This has been my obsession for the last 9 years and it was the inspiration for my company/website, YotaMD. To say it's been meticulously maintained would be an understatement. I have 4 vehicles in the house and this one has to go to make room for a new addition.
Engine:
7MGTE (JDM motor and ECU, no EGR)
Rebuilt 30k miles ago with ARP studs and OEM headgasket
Head machined flat, block inspected flat
3 angle valve job, new valve stem seals
New bearings all around, polished crank
Mil-spec wire harness - hand made, all new connectors, new terminals, new wires, color coded
New CPS (rebuilt)
r134 A/C retrofit (New Denso drier, Denso compressor, expansion valve)
Mishimoto Radiator
Apex'i Intake
Wrinkle coated black valve covers and 3000 pipe
Clean coil pack cover will be included
Castrol Syntec 0w-40 or Pennzoil Platinum oil with top shelf filters used
Toyota Red Coolant
Turbo:
Driftmotion 50 trim CT-26, ceramic coated and polished
ARZ softlines (AN fittings)
Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost controller
Bosch BPV
Exhaust:
Raptor Racing Downpipe - divorced and rerouted, ceramic coated SS, wideband bung
Raptor Racing Catback - SS with wrinkle coated stealth muffler - sounds amazing, looks great
49 state legal 3" Magnaflow catalytic converter (51209)
Drivetrain:
W58 - Rebuilt 70k miles ago - I prefer this to the R154 for power levels below 350whp. Shifts super smooth.
Redline MT-90
Stage 2 Competition Clutch
Marlin Crawler shifter bushings
3.73 LSD
Suspension/Chassis:
Koni Sport Shocks, Adjustable
Tanabe GF210 Springs
New Mounts and Isolators
New front wheel bearings
New front lower ball joints
New front brake rotors
Sound Deadened driver's door
340,000 miles on the odometer
Wheels/Tires:
5Zigen 17x8 +35 offset
BFG g-force sport KDW 245/40/17
4 original spec wheels will be included
Body:
Black Ruby Pearl Paint (206)
No exposed rust
New Toyota windshield trim
New Toyota rear hatch trim (upper, sides)
New windshield
3M Color Stable Tint (35% front doors, 20% rear)
Electronics:
Viper 5701 Two-Way Alarm with Remote Start
AEM Wideband
Prosport Premium Boost Gauge (Peak and Alarm)
Alpine Head Unit
Custom Gauge lighting (LED needles)
YotaMD Stealth Volt Meter (SVM)
Boston Component speakers (front)
Finer details:
The car runs great, turns heads and wears its miles proudly. I get to literally watch jaws drop when I tell people the chassis has 340,000 miles and is 26 years old - they can't believe it. The boost controller is setup to run close to stock boost (LO setting) or right up to fuel cut (the limit of the factory ECU) on the HI setting. It's fast, well maintained and ready to drive. I get thumbs up and waves nearly every time I drive it. It's loud enough to turn heads, but quiet enough to enjoy long drives. Nothing is missing and everything major works. A/C blows very cold. The few things that don't work are the trip odometer, heater control vacuum valve (I can fix this prior to sale if required - I haven't fixed it because I never use the heater in Phoenix), power antenna, the and low HVAC fan setting is intermittent. There is a slight oil leak that accumulates under the bell housing. My guess at this point is the rear main seal. It collects a nickel size spot of oil on the ground every week or so if it's parked - not enough that you would ever notice looking at the dipstick. It also smokes when started cold after not being driven for a few days. It does not smoke once the engine is warm. I believe a catch can would solve most that issue.
I am a mechanical engineer and I love working on engines. Hopefully the engine bay reflects that. I recently spent a few days cleaning up the engine bay and doing a tune up. Valve lash is all within 0.001" of spec and new gaskets were installed throughout. A new VSV was installed, new fan shroud, new alternator, new plug wires and a host of other parts. The engine bay is about as clean as they come for a non-show car. I used new zinc-plated JIS hardware to replace all the worn fasteners I came across during the tune up. The car passed emissions with a new catalytic converter a few years ago. It is currently registered as a collectible in Arizona and does not require emissions testing. It will be the buyers responsibility to ensure the car meets emissions standards in their home state.
The paint is not perfect. It was repainted before I bought the car and I've been trying to make it last as best I can. The rear hatch has areas where the clear coat has flaked off. The roof has areas that need a little more paint correction to remove the oxidation. Otherwise, the body and paint are very good. There is a small crack that is common on mk3 Supras on the driver's door handle, upper front corner. About 7 years ago I rear ended another car at about 5-10 mph. No significant damage was done to the bumper cover or the components I could see behind it, but I feel obligated to disclose that.
I have over $68,000 worth of records for the car, including the original window sticker and sales invoice. In my 9 years of ownership, I have spent approximately $18,500 on the car. There's been no shortage of TLC. I can't count the time I've invested on this car, but I'd estimate it to be upwards of 300 hours. A few of my projects on this car can be found on my youtube channel. The original owner kept great records as did the second. I am the third owner and since I have owned it I have kept a log of every expense. I will hand over all of this information with the sale.
This is an excellent example of a Basic Performance Upgrade Mk3 Supra and I while I'm sad to see it go, I'm excited for somebody else to enjoy it as I have. If your goal is a clean, ~400hp MK3, this is probably the best value you're going to find.
Video:
[video]
Pics:
Location : Phoenix, AZ
Contact: Email
Price - $9,200 with 5Zigen wheels/tires, $8,300 w/ sawblades
Email- admin@yotamd.com
1990 Toyota Supra Targa 7MGTE - $68,000 in records - 340,000 well-aged miles
Enthusiast owned. Garaged most its life. This has been my obsession for the last 9 years and it was the inspiration for my company/website, YotaMD. To say it's been meticulously maintained would be an understatement. I have 4 vehicles in the house and this one has to go to make room for a new addition.
Engine:
7MGTE (JDM motor and ECU, no EGR)
Rebuilt 30k miles ago with ARP studs and OEM headgasket
Head machined flat, block inspected flat
3 angle valve job, new valve stem seals
New bearings all around, polished crank
Mil-spec wire harness - hand made, all new connectors, new terminals, new wires, color coded
New CPS (rebuilt)
r134 A/C retrofit (New Denso drier, Denso compressor, expansion valve)
Mishimoto Radiator
Apex'i Intake
Wrinkle coated black valve covers and 3000 pipe
Clean coil pack cover will be included
Castrol Syntec 0w-40 or Pennzoil Platinum oil with top shelf filters used
Toyota Red Coolant
Turbo:
Driftmotion 50 trim CT-26, ceramic coated and polished
ARZ softlines (AN fittings)
Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost controller
Bosch BPV
Exhaust:
Raptor Racing Downpipe - divorced and rerouted, ceramic coated SS, wideband bung
Raptor Racing Catback - SS with wrinkle coated stealth muffler - sounds amazing, looks great
49 state legal 3" Magnaflow catalytic converter (51209)
Drivetrain:
W58 - Rebuilt 70k miles ago - I prefer this to the R154 for power levels below 350whp. Shifts super smooth.
Redline MT-90
Stage 2 Competition Clutch
Marlin Crawler shifter bushings
3.73 LSD
Suspension/Chassis:
Koni Sport Shocks, Adjustable
Tanabe GF210 Springs
New Mounts and Isolators
New front wheel bearings
New front lower ball joints
New front brake rotors
Sound Deadened driver's door
340,000 miles on the odometer
Wheels/Tires:
5Zigen 17x8 +35 offset
BFG g-force sport KDW 245/40/17
4 original spec wheels will be included
Body:
Black Ruby Pearl Paint (206)
No exposed rust
New Toyota windshield trim
New Toyota rear hatch trim (upper, sides)
New windshield
3M Color Stable Tint (35% front doors, 20% rear)
Electronics:
Viper 5701 Two-Way Alarm with Remote Start
AEM Wideband
Prosport Premium Boost Gauge (Peak and Alarm)
Alpine Head Unit
Custom Gauge lighting (LED needles)
YotaMD Stealth Volt Meter (SVM)
Boston Component speakers (front)
Finer details:
The car runs great, turns heads and wears its miles proudly. I get to literally watch jaws drop when I tell people the chassis has 340,000 miles and is 26 years old - they can't believe it. The boost controller is setup to run close to stock boost (LO setting) or right up to fuel cut (the limit of the factory ECU) on the HI setting. It's fast, well maintained and ready to drive. I get thumbs up and waves nearly every time I drive it. It's loud enough to turn heads, but quiet enough to enjoy long drives. Nothing is missing and everything major works. A/C blows very cold. The few things that don't work are the trip odometer, heater control vacuum valve (I can fix this prior to sale if required - I haven't fixed it because I never use the heater in Phoenix), power antenna, the and low HVAC fan setting is intermittent. There is a slight oil leak that accumulates under the bell housing. My guess at this point is the rear main seal. It collects a nickel size spot of oil on the ground every week or so if it's parked - not enough that you would ever notice looking at the dipstick. It also smokes when started cold after not being driven for a few days. It does not smoke once the engine is warm. I believe a catch can would solve most that issue.
I am a mechanical engineer and I love working on engines. Hopefully the engine bay reflects that. I recently spent a few days cleaning up the engine bay and doing a tune up. Valve lash is all within 0.001" of spec and new gaskets were installed throughout. A new VSV was installed, new fan shroud, new alternator, new plug wires and a host of other parts. The engine bay is about as clean as they come for a non-show car. I used new zinc-plated JIS hardware to replace all the worn fasteners I came across during the tune up. The car passed emissions with a new catalytic converter a few years ago. It is currently registered as a collectible in Arizona and does not require emissions testing. It will be the buyers responsibility to ensure the car meets emissions standards in their home state.
The paint is not perfect. It was repainted before I bought the car and I've been trying to make it last as best I can. The rear hatch has areas where the clear coat has flaked off. The roof has areas that need a little more paint correction to remove the oxidation. Otherwise, the body and paint are very good. There is a small crack that is common on mk3 Supras on the driver's door handle, upper front corner. About 7 years ago I rear ended another car at about 5-10 mph. No significant damage was done to the bumper cover or the components I could see behind it, but I feel obligated to disclose that.
I have over $68,000 worth of records for the car, including the original window sticker and sales invoice. In my 9 years of ownership, I have spent approximately $18,500 on the car. There's been no shortage of TLC. I can't count the time I've invested on this car, but I'd estimate it to be upwards of 300 hours. A few of my projects on this car can be found on my youtube channel. The original owner kept great records as did the second. I am the third owner and since I have owned it I have kept a log of every expense. I will hand over all of this information with the sale.
This is an excellent example of a Basic Performance Upgrade Mk3 Supra and I while I'm sad to see it go, I'm excited for somebody else to enjoy it as I have. If your goal is a clean, ~400hp MK3, this is probably the best value you're going to find.
Video:
[video]
Pics:
