1990 hzj73-4wd working or not? (1 Viewer)

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This is a photo of the electric motor , that drives the locking parts in the end cap.

1991-1995.jpg


a, Pix of End cap.JPG
 
Hi Mike , pls be aware that your car is a 4x2 in general drive condition.
Once you shift THE lever in transfer case to 4 HI , it becomes 4x4 , with no central differential.
Reason why when you turn in tight radius you feel like the car is blocked.
Means that front and rear axel are working indipendently .
BUT !
In order to engage front or rear lockers you MUST put FIRST the transfer lever in Low 4 !
Only then you can acetivate the nubi first on Rlockers , the on front.
Plus be Aware that elettric lockers are nice BUT ,need taken care.
MUST be activated on a regalar basis in order to be efficient.
Say once a month !
Pls check if all lockers are working , before starting to change .
BUT if you with to throw them , I am here with open arms.

By Renago
 
One last thing,
When you turn the lockers nob, a Yellow light starts to flash on the panel.
Means it is trying to engage the lockers.
When that same light is solid, meano the lockers arte engaged.
Otherwise it is not working properly.
 
The electric front hubs are total rubbish ... I replaced mine with warn manual hubs when they died. ( they bolted strait on but there was some small mod needed i think , but not enough too remember )
Then i bent the 8inch (1990) diff and replaced it with an earlyer 9.5 inch one.
 
Mine work perfectly . No complain .
Front and rear diff lockers are made in the same way .
As said previously , if you care them, they work flawless .
You can also get rid of the
Electrics and install a cable comand , so you don't have to get out of the car is difficult situations .
But here the topic I think is different .
Mike was unable to get them to work .
Why ???
My thoughts are because he was still in hi 4 .
But only he can tell us .

By Renago
 
@renago Thats a great post about the Lockers. Sounds like they are just like the 80 series in that they only work in 4wd LOW from the factory.

Now I'm not up to date on the electric hubs but IMO I would get rid of those and go to manual hubs.

If I'm deciphering your post correctly:

You slid into muddy/grassy ditch.
All terrain tires SUCK in the muddy/slick.
Your hubs aren't locking in so you are only in 2wd
Did your rear locker light ever show solid or was it blinking?
I'm not sure your front locker would engage without the hubs being locked so that it can line everything up.

So best case scenario you had a 2wd locked in the rear, but with slick A/T tires probably wasn't enough. A factory locked HZJ73 is by far more capable than any stock FJ40, and the same as a locked 40.
 
@lazyfarm
It's not me having a problem , but MIKE .
I just answered .
just to be clear , some cars have manual front hubs , that must be engaged ,before locking the diff .
some , like mine don't have manual front hubs .
in any case it is Mike that must tell us if the lights were blinking or were solid .
so we can understand and help .

your assumption about elockers is right , they are the same as the 80 series .
as said previously , they work properly , BUT , you must take care .
if you use them say only 1 time a year , most probably in 2-3 years the electric connections , motor , grease ,corrosion , will make them fail .
like any thing , no use is means certain deterioration .
spare parts are also very expensive , for no true reason .
I try to use the any time I can , also for just 50 mt ,
the traction I get with my heavy 78 , with lockers is amazing .
can drive almost anywhere , with confidence and at slow steady pace.
much better then trying to over come the obstacle with use of power .

Rgs Renago
 
@lazyfarm
It's not me having a problem , but MIKE .
I just answered .
just to be clear , some cars have manual front hubs , that must be engaged ,before locking the diff .
some , like mine don't have manual front hubs .
in any case it is Mike that must tell us if the lights were blinking or were solid .
so we can understand and help .

your assumption about elockers is right , they are the same as the 80 series .
as said previously , they work properly , BUT , you must take care .
if you use them say only 1 time a year , most probably in 2-3 years the electric connections , motor , grease ,corrosion , will make them fail .
like any thing , no use is means certain deterioration .
spare parts are also very expensive , for no true reason .
I try to use the any time I can , also for just 50 mt ,
the traction I get with my heavy 78 , with lockers is amazing .
can drive almost anywhere , with confidence and at slow steady pace.
much better then trying to over come the obstacle with use of power .

Rgs Renago

Renago,

I was replying to Mike, I just quoted you as it was good information. I've had quite a few 80's with factory E-lockers and yes, if you don't use them they get all nasty and corroded, especially that rear locker.
 
This is a photo of the electric motor , that drives the locking parts in the end cap

Hi Mike , pls be aware that your car is a 4x2 in general drive condition.
Once you shift THE lever in transfer case to 4 HI , it becomes 4x4 , with no central differential.
Reason why when you turn in tight radius you feel like the car is blocked.
Means that front and rear axel are working indipendently .
BUT !
In order to engage front or rear lockers you MUST put FIRST the transfer lever in Low 4 !
Only then you can acetivate the nubi first on Rlockers , the on front.
Plus be Aware that elettric lockers are nice BUT ,need taken care.
MUST be activated on a regalar basis in order to be efficient.
Say once a month !
Pls check if all lockers are working , before starting to change .
BUT if you with to throw them , I am here with open arms.

By Renago
hey renago-thank you. in my 73, the lever for t/case goes all way to top for H2, midways for neutral, and all the way down for L4. then I have a button dash for 4WD and right beside it for H4. I didn't know it had to be in L4 for front and rear lockers to work but when I was stuck I had it in L4 when I pushed button for lockers. think I hit switch for rear and front lockers and had dug out dirt under each rear tire but[not positive] I don't think the front tires were doing anything, even when one is supposed to work when hubs are locked in. I don't think the front hubs were ever locked in. I just went outside and put it in 4WD from the dash, then put t/case in L4 and hit the lockers switch, rear and front and the red lights weren't blinking but steady and gassed it a little in reverse and there were 2 tire marks in rear but none in front, like it wasn't even in 4WD on front axle. im guessing maybe the front hubs weren't locking so the front lockers didn't either? and I would be happy to give you the electric front hub lockers but I think I may go with elkaholics AVM lockers and I don't have to take my old one4s off, just bolt the new ones on.
 
@renago Thats a great post about the Lockers. Sounds like they are just like the 80 series in that they only work in 4wd LOW from the factory.

Now I'm not up to date on the electric hubs but IMO I would get rid of those and go to manual hubs.

If I'm deciphering your post correctly:

You slid into muddy/grassy ditch.
All terrain tires SUCK in the muddy/slick.
Your hubs aren't locking in so you are only in 2wd
Did your rear locker light ever show solid or was it blinking?
I'm not sure your front locker would engage without the hubs being locked so that it can line everything up.

So best case scenario you had a 2wd locked in the rear, but with slick A/T tires probably wasn't enough. A factory locked HZJ73 is by far more capable than any stock FJ40, and the same as a locked 40.
hey lazylfarm- thanks. I drove it while ago and put the button in 4WD, then t/case in L4, then rear locker and then front locker and one light[not sure front or rear] blinked for a second till I backed up a little and then no lights were blinking. I gunned it a little in the grass and 2 tire marks showed for rear wheels and none for the front wheels. so maybe the front wheels or locker were working as I didn't see any marks. maybe its like you say, if front hubs don't engage front lockers wont work either. when I push the 4wd button seems like I hear a noise on left side but not drivers side. and its kind of like a clicking sound, so maybe the right side isn't working. sounds like what youre saying is what happened. thank you.
 
hey renago-thank you. in my 73, the lever for t/case goes all way to top for H2, midways for neutral, and all the way down for L4. then I have a button dash for 4WD and right beside it for H4. I didn't know it had to be in L4 for front and rear lockers to work but when I was stuck I had it in L4 when I pushed button for lockers. think I hit switch for rear and front lockers and had dug out dirt under each rear tire but[not positive] I don't think the front tires were doing anything, even when one is supposed to work when hubs are locked in. I don't think the front hubs were ever locked in. I just went outside and put it in 4WD from the dash, then put t/case in L4 and hit the lockers switch, rear and front and the red lights weren't blinking but steady and gassed it a little in reverse and there were 2 tire marks in rear but none in front, like it wasn't even in 4WD on front axle. im guessing maybe the front hubs weren't locking so the front lockers didn't either? and I would be happy to give you the electric front hub lockers but I think I may go with elkaholics AVM lockers and I don't have to take my old one4s off, just bolt the new ones on.

If both of your locker lights are solid, then it's locked. I'm guessing your hubs aren't locking at all so 4wd isn't doing anything.

Good to know the lockers work!
 
Mine work perfectly . No complain .
Front and rear diff lockers are made in the same way .
As said previously , if you care them, they work flawless .
You can also get rid of the
Electrics and install a cable comand , so you don't have to get out of the car is difficult situations .
But here the topic I think is different .
Mike was unable to get them to work .
Why ???
My thoughts are because he was still in hi 4 .
But only he can tell us .

By Renago
hey renago. I was in L4 and the rear lockers engaged but not the front. not even one tire mark in front where it would have been regular 4WD. only two tire marks from the rear. im guessing my front hubs weren't locked in at all, even though I pushed the 4WD button. maybe that's why front lockers wouldn't work?
 
One last thing,
When you turn the lockers nob, a Yellow light starts to flash on the panel.
Means it is trying to engage the lockers.
When that same light is solid, meano the lockers arte engaged.
Otherwise it is not working properly.
hey renago-thanks. I put it in 4WD, then t/case in L4, then turned on rear lockers, then front, and I had 2 red lites with one blinking. I backed up a little and the blinking stopped. I then had 2 steady red lights so hopefully that means my lockers are working ok.
 
If both of your locker lights are solid, then it's locked. I'm guessing your hubs aren't locking at all so 4wd isn't doing anything.

Good to know the lockers work!
hey lazylfarm. at first[I have 2 red lights that come on] one of the lights was blinking and I had it in L4 and backed up a little and the one that was blinking became a steady red light, so im hoping its ok now. might have just had to jog it a little or something. thank you.
 
hey lazylfarm. at first[I have 2 red lights that come on] one of the lights was blinking and I had it in L4 and backed up a little and the one that was blinking became a steady red light, so im hoping its ok now. might have just had to jog it a little or something. thank you.

Yep, you usually have to drive a little bit and drive in a curve to get it to line up and lock together. Thats perfectly normal operation. It basically just needs to line up teeth on a collar so that it can slide over the axle shaft and lock it in.
 

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