1989 truck purchase question (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Threads
50
Messages
253
Location
Maine
Hi I'm looking at this '89 4x4 truck and was
hoping to get some advice.
I'm new to trucks, just have a LC.

The obvious problems with this truck are:
-one hub (passenger) will not lock
-one rust hole in DS rear quarter
-rusty small scrape along bottom of DS door
-fender flares (can't see behind them for possible rust)
-4 bald tires (good rims)

What I know so far:
-Body looks great (except for mentioned areas, above)
-It's v6
-5 spd
-SR5/TRD (at least emblems but I don't know much about that)
-IFS
-Starts and idles well (may need batt or alternator)
-recent exhaust/no apparent leaks
-4 inch suspension lift (not sure of brand now)
-3 inch body lift
-frame looks good
-Interior is in good shape
-no radio
-new front knuckle seals


What other things should I look at next time I see this? I'm supposed to drive it
early this week. I'll post any updates. The asking price was around 2600, does that seem high? So far I know it will need body work and 4 tires for a sticker. I don't own a welder. This is to be a DD in the winter and part time in summer. I would like it to be trail capable, at least, eventually.)Should I be looking for a different year, like the
'85 trucks? Location is literally right down the street...
Thanks a lot for suggestions,

:beer:

J
 
What engine does it have? How many miles? If it's the V6, have the head gaskets been replaced by Toyota yet?

How can you replace knuckle seals on an IFS suspension? Do you mean CV boots?
 
Thanks KLF,

It has the v6 with new heads and head gasket due to Toyota Recall.
I'll have to check miles as well as Front end details. But, yes, it has CV boots, sorry.

-J
 
Do a compression test on the engine just to be sure (good luck reaching plug #6), but it sounds like a reasonable price to me, especially if it's an Xtra Cab. Take a GOOD look at the frame, rust-free trucks are very rare in our part of the world.

You really don't need a welder to do the bodywork. My GF's Volvo had a nasty rust hole in the rocker panel, I slapped some fiberglass and Rustoleum on it, got it thru Maine inspection. Just don't expect it to last long.
 
I'll try to get a compression test, nice idea, I forgot about that! Doh!
It is an Xtra Cab with both rear "seats" intact.
If for some reason I can't get a compression check, should I be able to notice a compression problem while test driving it?

Thanks again
-J
 
damn, it was sold :mad:
 
Guess it is too late to do you any good but I have an 89 Extra Cab SR5 V6 with a 5 speed. It has 164,000 miles on it. I bought it 12 years ago with 56,000. The last 2 years it has been a weekender but before that it was my main vehicle. Great truck. Needed a new clutch at 132,000 and a new alternator and a pitman arm at 163,000. That has been about it. I've never had any head gasket problems.
 
Musher Vic,

Are you selling it?
Might be interested...

thanks
 
KLF said:
Do a compression test on the engine just to be sure (good luck reaching plug #6), but it sounds like a reasonable price to me, especially if it's an Xtra Cab. Take a GOOD look at the frame, rust-free trucks are very rare in our part of the world.

You really don't need a welder to do the bodywork. My GF's Volvo had a nasty rust hole in the rocker panel, I slapped some fiberglass and Rustoleum on it, got it thru Maine inspection. Just don't expect it to last long.

you mean that a vehicle can't have rust through in order to pass inspection there in maine.

lunyou
 
could be wrong, but I beleive it has to do with sharp/jagged rusty edges...
 
lunyou said:
you mean that a vehicle can't have rust through in order to pass inspection there in maine.

It depends on where the rust hole is. What they are concerned about is exhaust gases getting into the passenger compartment. If the hole is in the truck bed, then it shouldn't be a problem, as long as it's minor, no gaping sharp rusty edges. In my case with the GF's car, it was in the rocker section, just below the forward edge of the driver's door, behind the front wheel. When I chipped away all the flakey stuff the hole was about 2" in diameter, too big for Bondo, so I had to go to fiberglass.
 

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