1988 FJ62

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Joined
Jun 21, 2009
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Hello Guys!

New to the forum, although I have surfed it every now and then...

In a nutshell, I've been offered a 1998 FJ62, and I will check it out tomorrow.

The seller says that the unit has 208,000 miles, and according to the single pic (link attached), it has original wheels, and looks very nice. Also, the A/C works, all power accesories, and the 4x4, too.
LAND CRUISER, Toyota Puerto Rico Clasificados

Now, I need for the first time you rush help... anything special to look for while I'm with the truck? Also, any hidden areas that I need to look for rust, other than the usual behind the glass channels? Any particular question regarding service or operational issues? I'll try to take pics while I'm with the truck, unless the customer disapproves of it.

Sorry to be a pain on my first post, but there had to be one, and with this opportunity that just showed up, I had to ask.

Many thanks, and wish me luck!

Jorge
San Juan, PR

1965 CJ3B Willys Jeep
1950 M38 Willys (US ARMY) Jeep
 
The price is right, the body looks good. I would chalk the wheels take the tranfer and put it in nuetral along with the tranny. Check the pinions for wear,leaks .Also look at the front end like the birfs for leaks. And if the birfs does leak and nothing is clicking or making any noise when you try out the 4 wheel drive then you can change the seals and want not yourself. When you try out the 4 wheel drive do it in the gravel or something........not on a hard surface. As far as the motor goes use your own judgement and if you had a fsm you could check for codes.
Get the engine and tranny good and hot so you know the tranny is not slipping.etc etc. Really just commom sence stuff.
 
Thanks, Cruiser.

Let's see what I can see and find today...:)
 
Run and idle it for about 30 minutes with the A.C. on,see what the temp climbs too.What is the compression,rad. leaks? How old is battery etc.... Mike
 
Well, I don't really know what to say.

Truck body was solid, or at least it looked like it. No rust visible whatsoever, but the paint was horrible, faded and peeling.

Chassis was a beauty, but the auto tranny was leaking like a sieve, and it was also leaking motor oil between the rear block and tranny.

Interiors, the dash was cracked, and the seat were well worn.

No A/C either.

The truck, it would be nice for a resto, but again, not looking for a resto right now. I'm currently 3 years into rebuilding my M38 (alone at it, and it definitely tends to get boring at times), and don't wish to have another project on my hands. The price was right, but man, it need some work.

Damn, the body was nice...

Now, I wouldn't mind getting a nicer one, and pay a bit more...

Thanks!

Jorge
 
Where was the auto leaking? If it was the pan....thats one hours fix.
Rear seal takes a few hours to change.

At least you know with the s***ty paint its not hiding bondo.

AC is an easy fix

offer 2 k:beer:

Well, I don't really know what to say.

Truck body was solid, or at least it looked like it. No rust visible whatsoever, but the paint was horrible, faded and peeling.

Chassis was a beauty, but the auto tranny was leaking like a sieve, and it was also leaking motor oil between the rear block and tranny.

Interiors, the dash was cracked, and the seat were well worn.

No A/C either.

The truck, it would be nice for a resto, but again, not looking for a resto right now. I'm currently 3 years into rebuilding my M38 (alone at it, and it definitely tends to get boring at times), and don't wish to have another project on my hands. The price was right, but man, it need some work.

Damn, the body was nice...

Now, I wouldn't mind getting a nicer one, and pay a bit more...

Thanks!

Jorge
 
Well, I don't really know what to say.

Truck body was solid, or at least it looked like it. No rust visible whatsoever, but the paint was horrible, faded and peeling.
Like it was said already, that's a good sign! No respray hiding body work or bondo. I'd take badly faded an worn out paint (but a solid, rust-free body) over a shiny paint job, but unknown body history any day. I have learned this lesson twice.
CJ3B said:
Chassis was a beauty, but the auto tranny was leaking like a sieve, and it was also leaking motor oil between the rear block and tranny.
Rear main seal. When you have your clutch replaced, you resurface the flywheel and replace the rear main seal. No more leaks. No big deal, unless you do it yourself, and then it is a big deal, but inexpensive.

Jorge said:
Interiors, the dash was cracked, and the seat were well worn.

No A/C either.

The truck, it would be nice for a resto, but again, not looking for a resto right now. I'm currently 3 years into rebuilding my M38 (alone at it, and it definitely tends to get boring at times), and don't wish to have another project on my hands. The price was right, but man, it need some work.

Damn, the body was nice...

Now, I wouldn't mind getting a nicer one, and pay a bit more...

Thanks!

Jorge

You have more self-restraint than I do! Good for you for having patience and knowing what's too much of a project to dive into before you are in too deep. I lack this ability.
 

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