1985 FJ60 PS Gear Box Reseal (1 Viewer)

[CruiserZen]

After 268,000 miles our FJ60 still runs like a champ and since we became the proud owners the number of leaks has decreased down to a precious few! But recently I found the telltale signs of leaking red ATF on the floor under the drivers side. A quick look showed no issues with the hose seals. Unfortunately, looks like it's the dreaded leaking seal(s) issue. So I started the process of pulling the box, disassembling it, and resealing it myself this weekend. For anyone who is interested, here's my "first-timers" reseal post.

1. Confirmation

• Blocked rear wheels, Jacked up the front and placed jack stands
• Removed drivers side wheel
• Removed PS pump underside shield (3 12mm or 13mm bolts)
• Removed PS gear cover (2 12mm bolts)
• Noted leaking fluid coming from

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I did mine back in May. First real rebuild at my kitchen table. I was unable to post pixs of mine at the time, darn desk top wasn't being cool with mud. Then another guy posted his rebuild up a few months after me. I commented on his thread regarding things I did different... but other than that its fairly straight forward.
Good luck, take your time and have fun!

 

[FJ60Seth]

I have 2 questions:
1. Where did you get your kit?
2. Did you use a vice? How did you hold it? It seems like there no flat parts to clamp down on.

 

[Spike Strip]

Is it just me or is this post missing something?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have 2 questions:
1. Where did you get your kit?
2. Did you use a vice? How did you hold it? It seems like there no flat parts to clamp down on.

My kit was Edelmann 8770, I honestly can not remember who I bought it from. I DID have to buy two control rings from the dealership because the ones in the kit (green and white speckled) were not a tight enough fit. The rings were $11.25 ish each. I can find you a parts diagram straight from Toyota (I included it on that other guys thread too) which as all the P/N listed that the sales guy sent me. I have gotten very lucky and have one great guy at my place who is really willing to find me parts.
And vice? Hold it? You'd need to elaborate on what part of it you talking about.

 

[CruiserZen]

2. Pulled the steering gearbox

• Used a basic tie-rod puller tool to drop the tie rod - left the castle nut on the end of the bolt to avoid bending it
• Thanks for the tip on that hank14
• Used a 32mm socket on a breaker bar to remove the nut and lock washer on the gearbox end of the Pitman arm
• Tried unsuccessfully to pull the Pitman arm using a basic puller (stubborn bastard!)
• Going to try the same technique as ufG8r did in his post
• Detached the pressure and return lines from the top of the box
• Removed the frame rail mounting nuts/bolts – Oddly the top right bolt was bound by the left motor mount so I couldn't remove it
• The gearbox came out pretty easily (along with 30 years of ATF-infused sludge)

Next I drained the remaining fluid and cleaned up the exterior. Still waiting on the seal kit from Gates so I will take some time and degrease/de-muck the entire area over the next few days.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have seen a few folks take the pittman off from that end and it never seemed to make for an easy break down of the box. I chose to remove mine from the output shaft of the box instead. For me I used the same puller and alternated with a 2lb sledge. The vibrations and the puller together are what allowed the pittman to slowly slide off the splines. Its a fun job regardless. Enjoy!

 

[CruiserZen]

I have seen a few folks take the pittman off from that end and it never seemed to make for an easy break down of the box. I chose to remove mine from the output shaft of the box instead. For me I used the same puller and alternated with a 2lb sledge. The vibrations and the puller together are what allowed the pittman to slowly slide off the splines. Its a fun job regardless. Enjoy!

Thanks for the advice! Can you clarify, though? With the Pitman arm puller I was planning on loading it up and whacking it with a sledge (or rubber mallet). Presumably that would remove it from the output shaft of the box. How are you suggesting to remove the Pitman arm?

 

[CruiserZen]

I have seen a few folks take the pittman off from that end and it never seemed to make for an easy break down of the box. I chose to remove mine from the output shaft of the box instead. For me I used the same puller and alternated with a 2lb sledge. The vibrations and the puller together are what allowed the pittman to slowly slide off the splines. Its a fun job regardless. Enjoy!

Ahh . . . read your post. You left it connected to the tie rod and slid it off the output shaft while it was still underhood. Also, good point about the white/green speckled seals. Do you happen to have the part numbers for the OEM ones you bought?

 

[Spike Strip]

Power Steering Gearbox Reseal

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ahh . . . read your post. You left it connected to the tie rod and slid it off the output shaft while it was still underhood. Also, good point about the white/green speckled seals. Do you happen to have the part numbers for the OEM ones you bought?

From my receipt from Toyota... 90562-48001 $11.23 each end of May '16

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, I've removed the pitman arm and it sounded like a gun going off, be prepared. Mike

 

[CruiserZen]

No kidding, Mike! Finally got some quality time in the garage this morning and got that sucker off. Took a beefed up puller (first one bent apart) and my impact wrench but it surrendered. Wife stuck her head out to see if I had bagged a 12 point buck or something the noise was so loud.

 

[CruiserZen]

3. Pulled the sector shaft

• Removed the 4 bolts on from the end cover
• Removed the adjustment screw locking nut
• Turned the adjustment screw CW to remove the end cover
• Tapped out the sector shaft with a rubber mallet but it only came out part way
• Got it the rest of the way by gently tapping a long punch from the Pitman arm side until I could pull it out

4. Pulled the worm gear shaft

• Don't have the SST so I improvised by using a pipe wrench to carefully turn the worm bearing adjusting screw lock nut
• Like ufg8r I took the adjusting screw out with the nut! Will need to fab up a tool to separate if necessary
• The FSM doesn't make mention of removing the 4 bolts in the screw gear cover but I found I had to
• It was pretty stubbornly attached to the housing so I had to coax it a bit with a rubber mallet
• It came off pretty easily after that
• Then I pulled the worm gear and ball nut. Rewarded with a nice pile of recirculating ball bearings

 

[ufg8r]

Looking good, now you're getting to the fun part...

I have a little over 1000 miles on mine since I did the reseal, so far so good.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Looking good, now you're getting to the fun part...

I have a little over 1000 miles on mine since I did the reseal, so far so good.

Possibly similar miles on mine or less. I did it back in May and so far so good.

 

[CruiserZen]

Today I got after it a little early. I started with the sector shaft seals. What a lovely sight. 30 years of muck and crap all in a cramped, tight space!

Honestly, this was pretty easy and the hardest part is fitting the teflon seal within the o-ring and getting the combination seated in the sector shaft housing. Once that was done, the rest is easily handled with the help of some C-clip pliers and a 30mm socket to evenly drive the dust seal into place. I used a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet to coax the dust seal into the housing.

All cleaned up and new seals in place:

 

[CruiserZen]

Lots of progress over the past 2 weeks. The gearbox is back together and working well over the past week or so. No visible leaks, super smooth operation. Thanks to all who helped with advice and encouragement. I will post some pictures shortly. But in the meantime, one bone headed question. I seriously am at a loss for where the splashguard below goes! I removed it just fine but can't seem to find it in any drawings, or other posts in here. Can anyone help me out with where this thing goes ??!!!?