1985 FJ60 failed California smog due to high NOx (2 Viewers)

[RustyAndDusty]

The AV8 should have the same thread. If the thread on the down-pipe to the exhaust is different, something has been changed. Pix of what you're working with would help.

To answer your PM: I don't have any of them left.

I'll take some pics in the morning. I'd be very surprised if the exhaust pipe had been changed on this truck at some point. If AV8 has the same threads then I guess I was sent the wrong part. I might just weld the threaded part from my old busted check valve to the one I got in the mail just to save myself having to buy more parts and wait for them in the mail. Not sure if the heat would be too much for the check valve diaphragm though.

 

[joebattle1]

I had a 1987 60 for a couple decades in CA. My suggestion is to go individual hose by hose in the emissions manual making 100% sure each is hooked up correctly. Trust the manual, not some photo seem elsewhere. Even smart mechanics get these hoses wrong. Get them all correct.

I marked each hose and its home at each end with different color paint dots to keep track in both the short and long term. This helps.

Replace any bad hoses or missing/broken parts.

Then … I suggest you go through the emissions manual and test each system. Mark your readings directly in the paper manual. Take your time. The manual is good.

Your vacuum tester may find a couple failed parts. Replace those.

It is worth it to learn the emissions systems if you own a 60. Most everything else is simple. Become the rare expert on the emissions systems of this motor, as most techs will be at a loss.

You will then likely pass and she will run cleaner. If you hotrod it later, do it from a perspective of understanding the various systems. Keep your resale value alive.

This… this is the way. Each hose one by one. I used my wife’s bag of nail polish to mark each end. Also check for cracks in the air hoses going to the smog pump. They are easy to miss because they are under everything. They are also hard to replace as almost if not all are NLA.

 

[RustyAndDusty]

The AV8 should have the same thread. If the thread on the down-pipe to the exhaust is different, something has been changed. Pix of what you're working with would help.

To answer your PM: I don't have any of them left.

Here’s a photo of my pipe to the exhaust where the check valve connects to and a photo of the threaded part of my old broken check valve next to the threads of the new “AV8” check valve. Probably hard to tell the difference in size by this photo but the AV8 check valve slides right over the threads on the pipe that the previous check valve screwed onto.

 

[Spike Strip]

That looks like the correct stuff on the down pipe. All I can guess is if that broken check valve part still threads onto it, then they gave you the wrong valve.

Will the check-valve that threads onto the Air-Rail work on the pipe to the exhaust ?

 

[RustyAndDusty]

That looks like the correct stuff on the down pipe. All I can guess is if that broken check valve part still threads onto it, then they gave you the wrong valve.

Will the check-valve that threads onto the Air-Rail work on the pipe to the exhaust ?

I haven't attempted to take off the check valve on the air rail yet but it might not be a bad idea just to check if its functioning or not. I'll see about getting around to checking that, Ive got a day or two off from working on it to do some other things.

 

[western flyer]

I did the same as joebattle1 with unique paint coding each hose end and it’s matching home, after double checking placement in the emissions manual. This then allowed for easy tracking and checking if the hoses were correct, even after a part was removed and replaced. Or if someone else was allowed under the hood…

 

[RustyAndDusty]

Will the check-valve that threads onto the Air-Rail work on the pipe to the exhaust ?

I just removed the check valve on the air rail and it does indeed thread onto the pipe to the exhaust. So I suppose I might have been sent the wrong part.

Turns out the air rail check valve is toast as well sooo maybe this is silly but I think I’m just going to buy another “AV8” from a different source because I need a second check valve now and I’m also curious if the new one will be the same part as the last one I got or if it will in fact thread on the pipe and confirm I was sent the wrong one. I ended up just welding the threads of my old broken on onto the new one so I’ve got that one taken care of.

I also took a part the whole air injection system and looks like not a single valve was working. The pressure relief valve had stuff keeping it open so it cleaned it out with some degreaser and a little pick to hold the valve open. Works as it should now.

The ASV was full of pieces pieces from the original smog pump i assume. The pump on mine appears to be aftermarket so I’m guessing at some point it was replaced but the air injection system wasn’t gone through. I cleared all the pieces out and applied vacuum verify it worked. I’m hoping the pieces aren’t from the pump that’s currently on the truck. Curious how much air I should expect to feel coming from the pump when the truck is idling cause mine doesn’t put out much force.


Last up was the ABV valve which I can’t seem to activate the valve any which way I apply vacuum. I’m thinking the diaphragm inside must be toast.
I’m assuming if vacuum is applied to the lower vacuum port it should suck the diaphragm down and open the valve on the bottom? The spring in the valve is really strong, seems like it would take some heavy vacuum to compress it.

Does anyone have one of these that still works for sale?

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Sent you a pm

 

[RustyAndDusty]

Finally took the truck in to get smogged today and it passed!

When I put the air injection system back together the other day I decided to prop open the ABV with a bolt to force air to the cat since my ABV didn't seem to be working properly. Not sure if that helped with the results but there have been reports on here of it working for others.

Because of my location I won't need to smog the truck again unless I sell it so I'm wondering if I need to bother finding a new ABV or if I can just run the broken one. Without the bolt in there it just forces air to the air rail. Is it detrimental to the engine or cat to keep the ABV open or closed at all times? I assume if I leave the bolt in the ABV that constant O2 to the cat will make the cat run hotter burn it up more quickly? What effect does only pushing air to the air rail have? I've considered desmogging the truck but don't really want to at the moment.

Oh yeah and I ordered another AV8 valve from a different supplier and it was the same story. The threaded end was a little too large for the threads on either the air rail or the pipe to the cat so if anyones looking for a cheap alternative to the check valves on these cruisers I'd say avoid the AV8. The part doesn't fit in any way. I ended up welding the threads from my old busted check valve onto the new AV8 valve just like the last one.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Congrats on passing smog.
I have an ABV for you!
I sent you a pm