1985 FJ60 - Alabama pasture find

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chbrow10 said:
Wishing you patience and parts availability. I agree with the herpetologist (@Godwin ), make sure you triage the patient to make she she is worth saving. Whenever I buy a car, I like to baseline all the fluids. Fresh oil is cheap insurance and draining the oil (and examining the drain pan) will let you see what you are dealing with. I'm concerned about your confession about your mechanical skills. These trucks, and any truck left in a field for 10 years, will require mechanical love and attention. We will pray for you.

If you decide to part it out, I'm interested in the passenger front door and the passenger fender if it is rust free. I also may be interested in the engine as a core.
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Thank you for your prayers.
 
Most of the idle and starting issues on these are related to the carb. I know that you want to buy a fuji carb, I assume from City Racer. However, another option is buying a used carb from someone like Cruiseryard and having Jim C or Mark in Burbank rebuild it. Cruiseryard will ship it direct to either of those guys. You are in it for more $$$ (2x?), but you will have solid carb and if you end up parting the truck out, you can easily sell it.

Note the City Racer is for desmogged carbs only. If that truck doesn't have the desmog done, you should do that anyway.
 
It is desmogged. Fuji carb is in the mail. The stock carb was in the weeds behind the truck. I think I might keep it on my desk as a paperweight.
 
booradley said:
It is desmogged. Fuji carb is in the mail. The stock carb was in the weeds behind the truck. I think I might keep it on my desk as a paperweight.
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I would send it out for a rebuild. No kidding.
 
I really like the feel of a factory carb with a good rebuild.

That said, I've run a Fuji for the last 55,000 miles.

Stay away from the trollhole and other $70 eBay carbs. Pure junk.
 
booradley said:
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At the risk of de-railing your thread... what's the trick here for getting a non-running truck onto a four-wheel car trailer? I have had a hairy near-miss or two with my FJ60 and a Harbor Freight come-along (onto a tow-dolly, probably my first mistake)... probably a winch is the theoretical "correct tool" for the job, what did you use?
 
kenavt said:
At the risk of de-railing your thread... what's the trick here for getting a non-running truck onto a four-wheel car trailer? I have had a hairy near-miss or two with my FJ60 and a Harbor Freight come-along (onto a tow-dolly, probably my first mistake)... probably a winch is the theoretical "correct tool" for the job, what did you use?
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Basic handwinch mounted to the trailer will do it easily provided the tires are not flat brakes not siezed and it's not in gear.
 
chbrow10 said:
I second the Rustoleum Hammered silver as a decent rattle can for the OEM silver color.
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I've been using the Hammered paints for years. Silver on knuckles, tie rods, spring plates, wheels and black on wheels and other pieces. It looks good and is durable
 
kenavt said:
At the risk of de-railing your thread... what's the trick here for getting a non-running truck onto a four-wheel car trailer? I have had a hairy near-miss or two with my FJ60 and a Harbor Freight come-along (onto a tow-dolly, probably my first mistake)... probably a winch is the theoretical "correct tool" for the job, what did you use?
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We used a tow rope attached to that blue 60 running parallel to the trailer. It ran right up.
 
I am going to spend some time tomorrow on it. In the meantime:

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I mangled the original pinstripe with the pressure washer, so I am taking it off with a 3m wheel. The black decal is coming off quickly, but this shiny part is not. I cannot tell if it is adhesive, or if it is actually the original clear coat under the stripe and the exposed clear coat has degraded and receded around it. I have tried all the tricks (goof off, alcohol, heat, rubbing compound). I am hesitant to try any kind of paint thinner, but I might be willing to try a high-grit wet sand. Has anyone ever encountered this? I have taken stripes off before several times but this one is on there good.
 
I encountered the same thing when removing the stripes from my truck before repainting. What worked best was using a SHARP razor blade held almost flat against the body to get under that clear adhesive stuff and lift it up.
 
I am getting mixed word on what type paint I'm dealing with. I know the truck is Toyota 147 Silver. Is it single stage paint or multi-layer clear coat in 1985?
 
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Low resolution images (ha). I'm going to slap a coat of wax on it to maintain the status quo and that's it on the outside until we get it running.
 
If you are using a stripe eraser wheel, you are likely seeing nice original clear coat under the stripes. No easy fix for this. Having used a rubber stripe eraser wheel, I would not use anything else (chemicals, razor blades, etc.) to remove stripes.
 
booradley said:
I am getting mixed word on what type paint I'm dealing with. I know the truck is Toyota 147 Silver. Is it single stage paint or multi-layer clear coat in 1985?
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@wngrog may know
 
Godwin said:
What are you front bumper plans? I have a front bumper with end caps that you can have if you want.
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Thank you. I may take you up on that. Right now the focus is on bringing it back to life. Once that happens I may check back with you.
 
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