1982 exhaust manifold leak, where is it coming from, SEE PICTURES

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Wadesters

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I have a 1982 FJ40. It has an exhaust leak that is coming from the manifold I believe. Previous owner told me it had a valve job not long ago. I know the intake / exhaust manifold must be perfectly straight for a good fit against head. I assumed it was warped but looks pretty straight to me. I will picture gasket below that does show black around one exhaust port.
Another thing I noticed is I know the end pieces on the exhaust manifold remove. I thought there was supposed to be 1 spring 17152-61010 and 1 ring 17152-61010 in groves. OEM diagram makes it look like there are 2 rings and 1 spring. Is this correct or 1 ring and 1 spring per side. Currently there are 2 17152-61010 installed and no spring.
Inside of intake manifold is not cracked.

Thank you..

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It looks to me its leaking everywhere. Being flat and straight is more than looking flat/straight. You can check with a good straight edge and a light. You could just plane it some on a big piece of glass and some sand paper.

I would make sure there is a large stainless/brass washer that bridges the gap so you can apply even torque to the manifolds in the proper order going up 1/3 each time. If say the T spec is 30#, do 10, then 20, then 30. I made custom stepped washer for my header because there was like 1/4" thickness difference between the steel header and the aluminum intake. I did longer stainless steel "studs" and used 2 wet gaskets. I also put a V notch in the air filter bracket so I could easily get a socket on the nut.

I always soak that type gasket in warm water for like 1/2 an hour - it will soften enough to allow the high spots to dig in. After you fire it up and it gets hot, let it cool and re-torque at the final #. I use high heat anticize compound on the nuts.
 
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In addition to ☝️, it's also common for exhaust to leak where that shaft (17203 in the parts diagram) enters/exists the exhaust manifold. If you search, there are ways to solve that one permanently. It would be a shame to do all the work to put everything back together only to then find a big leak around the heat riser assembly.
 
No clue but $or.com has them for $30 and $16 each - that could be like $100. The pic I saw shows one of each on each side for 76-87
 
maybe I'm seeing things in your intake but it appears to have a crack in it.
your current intake/exhaust gasket is cheap not a stock item, there should be a sealing ring around each opening. and probably not installed correctly
I have a good old school machine shop in town that will face the intake/exhaust combo, to make sure it is totally flat, adds expense but not something you want to do over again
follow the manual for torque sequence, I will re-torque the manifolds for several days after heat and cool cycles
I use OEM gasket only
no help on the end pieces
 
Each ring gets a spring, there are two sets on each side as the diagram shows.

I fit the manifold the the block without a gasket and temporarily welded the horns to the manifold proper. Then had the whole thing flattened and ground down the welds.

I also removed the flapper, welded the shaft shut and placed a blockoff plate.

See my post for some pictures:
 
I checked my FSM and don't see a torque recommendation except for California. Does anyone have the sequence?

still need this?

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Thank you! Found that one of my end exhaust manifold pieces had been "worked on" by a previous owner. I had a replacement and the assembly showed perfectly flat with my replacement end. Used an OEM gasket, rings, springs, and your torque sequence. Reinstalled and... no leaks.

Thank you very much all for help!!
 

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