1980 Beater Build!! (1 Viewer)

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lol!!! No its cool! Two things one it is totally unsprung sitting virtually high centered on tires and wheels while the front axle is out (have to go overboard due to my little guy). Second when the weight is on it the shackles only angle slightly back. In my earlier posts I talk about being bummed because if I would have moved my front hangers about 3/4 - 1" back so around 16.25 rather than 17.25 I would have been golden. But I had originally placed them and planned on a double shackle. So dont worry I know i have to move the hanger forward and they are half cut off right now with the bumper build. Good eye though and I am promise I will do something dumb at some point!!! :D
 
Yotas back together with a nice tight frontend. MAJOR FYI to all on the marlin gusset kit. I had been warned by a friend that said he put his on where he thought it should be and got to cut the front of it back out due to the knuckle hitting it. I had luckily decided to heck with it up front and trimmed every bit of 3/8s of an inch off the face to elimate any chance of that problem and it still just barely hit on the felt plate! Luckily I didnt weld all the way to the end just in case...... Maybe I positioned them wrong but seriously my housings outers had marks where the felts had originally rubbed and started and stopped and i put them center...... Oh and this is just the top gusset the bottom one is fine the way it is.

Oh and I actually washed the thing with soap and water.... I hope it doesnt fall apart!
 
So i whipped these up but I will say I think they are a bit goddy and I wish I would have just used thicker strap...* I dont question how strong they are because I am certain if I ever run this thing off a cliff when you see it at the bottom it will be a pile of tin with 4 perfectly good reusable shackles :rolleyes:

Again the rear shackle mounts are half cut off as we speak waiting for the final end scenario at which time I will move to correct the shackle angle.
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In order to allow for longer shocks in hopes to get along with the chevy springs I had a piece of 2" x I think 1.5" box laying around so I drilled it and after measuring found that a 5/8 bolt was very very close to the correct size for the bushings on shocks. I ran down and purchased some bolts that were long enough to go through the box, space the shocks out (welded a thick washer) and still allowed enough shoulder for the shock bushings to rest on. I think they were 6" bolts if I recall. The box is the perfect height to allow the bed plate to rest on it firming it up.

Temp tacked in place...
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For the bottom I used the same washer spaced out theory but was more intended to allow me to weld gussets from the housing to the bolt since they are butt welded to the outside center of the housing which would last about 15 minutes on the trail. And then since I am being cheap I temporarily used the factory top mounts so that I could get by with the stock shocks.

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Another way to do that would be to take a peice of angle iron, drill out a hole for the bolt, weld the bolt in, grind the head of said bolt of, weld angle iron to the axle on the side and bottom of said axle... Cheap, easy , and strong...

Like so,
Yellow are welds on the backside (facing you) of the axle, Red welds are on the bottom (facing cement) of the axle. I learned I can SMAW better upside down doing this on my uncles landcruiser...
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Oh crud good point!! I will do exactly that for the bottom and then go ahead and use my gussets that I stenciled out for the top!! Great advice I totally spaced it and didnt want anything to hang down!
 
Yeah, use bolts that are longer than you need... You can always cut them down, however, you cant cut the to short of bolts off the axle as easy :flipoff2:
 
Is this too much bling?
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Sorry to much :beer: those are for my powerstroke due to my little guardrail incident.

EDIT: Dont mind the nerf hoop the kid has to have something to do while we are in the shop!!!
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I have been fighting the 20r carb for a while now and I am going to have to either rebuild it or throw in the towel :bang: so I am choosing to go in search of another 20r or 22r carb but I really dont want to have to purchase an adapter for a few months use. I did however come to the conclusion that I couldnt let it roll out of my shop and actually drive it around with that frankenstein crossmember contraption I cobbled on there for temp use!! Here is the one I worked on tonight. I know it isnt the stongest method because it is known to pull the bolts out of the tranny however i am going to call it my new temp x-member for now.

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Ok I have been searching on the whole using a 22r carb on a 20r and I am confused.... I would have swore we use to redrill and tap the 20r intake and throw 22r carbs on with no troubles... I can not find one write up on it anywhere so I am starting to think I am wrong. Looking at the picture it looks like it is doable minus loosing the little groove that is machined into the adapter. I think i remeber something weird about the ports but I don't recall modifying anything :meh:
EDIT: actually I think I remember the 22r having a red plastic spacer that had the groove in it....??
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Heck with it I borrowed another 20r carb today and if that one doesnt work the guy was cool enough to tell me to come back and he would let me borrow a different one. I am going to throw it on in an hour or so and hopefully be3 back up and going....


EDIT: I went out and threw the other carb on there and she fires up right away on its own (no either) and purrs like a kitten..... Finally I can move on!!
 
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Again I know this isnt the best method due to the bolts to the tranny will pull the threads but this is a great quick temporary method to replace my cobble job. Once I get the 4.3 adapter I can start focusing on long term and I will mock the preferred method up instead. I purchased a 4' piece of 1.25 pipe but i decided to save it for the final crossmember and used a piece of 1" pipe and the flat section with the bends starting 20" apart from each other and they are at a 35 degree angle. I also picked up a rear sump 20r oil pan today and pickup tube to allow my highsteer to clear. I dropped the oil pan but I need to pickup a gasket tomorrow.

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LOL My wife saw the pic and flipped!! I had to explain to her that I only rolled them up beside it and took a pic..... I think she has calmed down a little now!!! Thanks for the compliments.

Here is where the bling actually belongs if I ever get it back from the body shop :D

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I took a few pics while trying to figure out what I needed for shocks. I am happy with the front since the spring clamps were still on the pack and were limiting droop. The rear however I was not happy with at all but I have virtually zero weight back there right now and my shackle angle is still terrible which is not helping at all.
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This pic the springs were just past flat by no more than 1/2" at the most and I plan to bump stop them at flat along with hack some sheet metal to clear the 40s if I ever heal up from the powerstroke scenario or win the lottery:meh:
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I also picked up some rear wheel bearings and seals along with one wheel cylinder because i almost twisted the bleeder screw off while trying to bleed the brakes. I really dont want to weld the rear-end as I had on my last yota due to the occasional suprise while going around a wet corner at 55 mph. I really want an e-locker something fierce but I will have to wait.

EDIT: OH MAN I Just looked at the post and now you know I have a stupid sunroof :rolleyes:!!! I am thinking the exo cage will hopefully protect it and if it doesnt it will get a sheet welded in there!
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It is crazy i picked up two 4' chunks of .120 wall 1.5" tube to make shock hoops and it was $20.00 :eek: By the time I spend my time, my gas to have gone and got the tube, build the 4 tabs, cut braces, etc. I so should have just ordered trail gear hoops for 65.00 to my door step! :bang: I find satisfaction in building the items myself but sometimes it REALLY doesn't make sense unless you have the material or you can find it in the used bins which I couldn't because I had to be specific due too the fact I have to borrow a friends bender to make that sharp of a radius. :rolleyes:
 

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