- Location
- United States
Edit: I'm looking for a 4th gen 4runner and would be really open to partial trades
Just thought I'd throw this up here. It's on the Dallas CL. I'm asking $14,000 OBO and I just put it on ebay tonight (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131521905875?forcerRptr=true&item=131521905875&viewitem=). Here's the info, sorry I can get a little wordy but I figure more is better than less when selling a car online:
It hurts me to do this and I already regret it - I looked for 2 years before buying this FJ55 - but I'm selling my 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 for no other reason than it came down to a really tough choice between this and a nova that has been in my family for long time.
I bought this in San Diego in 2011, flew in, and drove it home to Dallas, TX that weekend where it has been since. It was garage kept for the first two years but now that I have another classic I have been alternating which gets to sleep indoors based on what I'm doing. It has a reasonably fresh paint job that looks amazing from 15 ft but has a few blemishes up close (see detailed photos). It runs and drives great, the 4WD works perfect, and she'll get up to 70-75 with the rubber overdrive (31" X10" Kumho all terrain tires). I have to run premium during the summer because I think there's a slight vacuum leak that makes the #6 cylinder ping if you goose it going 60+ but get away with regular fuel in winter. There is NO structural rust but there are few spots bubbling through that would need some attention.
The odometer reads 89k but hasn't worked since a few weeks after I bought it, speedo works fine though.
Just a note - it has been de-smogged so I know it will not be street legal in CA. I haven't had a problem in TX (or Oregon where I also had a 78 de-smogged cruiser) but keep your state's emission requirements in mind when bidding.
I think it'll be easier to list out the Pro's/upgrades and Cons.
Pros and Upgrades:
-4 wheel disc brakes installed this spring ($400 parts + $200 labor) - I cannot say how nice of an upgrade this is!
-New brake booster in 2012 ($450)
-New master cylinder
-New clutch master cylinder (slave in box still)
-Davis Unified Ignition HEI distributor tuned for 2F engine ($350)
-Radiator rebuilt with new core (~$400) 2012
-Rear heater rebuilt with new core (~$100) 2012
-LED tailights, dashlights, blinkers, and running lights
-H4 headlight bucket and halogen bulbs (so much better than the sealed beams)
-High Output 140 Amp distributor built last fall (~$200)
-VERY, very straight body panels except where there are some bubbles and the passenger rear corner that got knocked
-Strong, smooth running 2F - slight knock when cold that has been there for 3 years now without changing
-Head was surfaced and valves checked (passed with flying colors) in 2012
-New transfer case/differential fluid all the way around
-New U-joints in steering column
-Very hard to find floor mats
-New dash pad cover
-Emissions removed
-What rust is there is very treatable.
-Frame and floor panels are excellent with only surface rust on the frame and a few surface spots on the floorboards (in pictures)
-New window seal for tailgate window ($250)
-Tailgate window works (though slowly...I think new wires from the dash to the window would fix this)
-Solid brass tailgate motor gear (to replace break-prone original nylon gear)
-All glass is good without cracks or bad scratches
-Headliner is excellent (could use a wash here and there)
-Very clean heater/radio panel that I will include with the sale
-Carb rebuilt just before I got it in 2011
-Installed a hose connection between the transmission and transfer case to ensure proper fluid levels
-Stainless steel roof trim is there, but was painted over
-All cylinders checked in at 140+ PSI (more below)
-Rhino lined floor boards and cargo area
Cons
-Rust in corners of passenger door, tailgate, on two of the wheel flares, on one fender apron, and cracks in hood (all in photos).
-Driver side door stop broke with a gust of wind and door over-opened, causing the slight flare in the metal and spiderweb cracks in the paint
-Slight knock in motor only when cold (this has been present since I got it in 2011 and has not increased in intensity) - more below
-Window regulators are all functional but are nearing the end of their life. I have good used ones that can be bought if needed
-Dried goo from removed window tinting on front passenger window - just needs a razor and some time
-No sun visors but I have some and the bracket that I will throw in with the sale
-Upholstery on driver side of bench seat is starting to go
-No radio
-Slight vacuum leak in rear of intake manifold. Drives fine but wants to hesitate when starting from a stop. (I think this is the cause)
-Hi-Amp alternator means ammeter cannot work (would get fried)
-Gas gauge reads empty when there's 3-4 gallons left (I think this is common)
-Window felts need to be redone - I did the driver side but none of the others
-Small windows in passenger doors could use a new seal
-Slight rocker/tappet noise, less so once warmed
A note on the engine:
In 2012 I had had enough of the knocking so I pulled the #6 piston and took it to a machine shop (crank surface looked good with no scoring). There were slight score marks on the cylinder walls and piston skirts. The machinist (Wayne Calvert of Calvert's machine shop in Denton, TX) checked it and OK'd it to reinstall. Before reassembly I honed out the #6 cylinder and checked the ring gaps on the piston, everything came out fine (and that cylinder had the highest compression). The compression readings, taken in fall 2012 and again in spring 2013, are #1 155, #2 155, #3 150, #4 145, #5 140, #6 160. I have not noticed signs for concern (or change in the noises this motor usually makes) since reassembling the motor. The only thing I would do before a major road trip (it's already my daily driver) would be to have the intake/exhaust re-surfaced because the guy who did it the first time didn't torque the bolts holding them together, which is why I think they are a little out of alignment and are allowing a small vacuum leak. Otherwise this is a really strong 2F. I drove it from the West Coast and have driven it to Austin a few times and MO once or twice with no issues whatsoever.
The full album can be found here: http://imgur.com/a/pNVWS#14
Just thought I'd throw this up here. It's on the Dallas CL. I'm asking $14,000 OBO and I just put it on ebay tonight (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131521905875?forcerRptr=true&item=131521905875&viewitem=). Here's the info, sorry I can get a little wordy but I figure more is better than less when selling a car online:
It hurts me to do this and I already regret it - I looked for 2 years before buying this FJ55 - but I'm selling my 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 for no other reason than it came down to a really tough choice between this and a nova that has been in my family for long time.
I bought this in San Diego in 2011, flew in, and drove it home to Dallas, TX that weekend where it has been since. It was garage kept for the first two years but now that I have another classic I have been alternating which gets to sleep indoors based on what I'm doing. It has a reasonably fresh paint job that looks amazing from 15 ft but has a few blemishes up close (see detailed photos). It runs and drives great, the 4WD works perfect, and she'll get up to 70-75 with the rubber overdrive (31" X10" Kumho all terrain tires). I have to run premium during the summer because I think there's a slight vacuum leak that makes the #6 cylinder ping if you goose it going 60+ but get away with regular fuel in winter. There is NO structural rust but there are few spots bubbling through that would need some attention.
The odometer reads 89k but hasn't worked since a few weeks after I bought it, speedo works fine though.
Just a note - it has been de-smogged so I know it will not be street legal in CA. I haven't had a problem in TX (or Oregon where I also had a 78 de-smogged cruiser) but keep your state's emission requirements in mind when bidding.
I think it'll be easier to list out the Pro's/upgrades and Cons.
Pros and Upgrades:
-4 wheel disc brakes installed this spring ($400 parts + $200 labor) - I cannot say how nice of an upgrade this is!
-New brake booster in 2012 ($450)
-New master cylinder
-New clutch master cylinder (slave in box still)
-Davis Unified Ignition HEI distributor tuned for 2F engine ($350)
-Radiator rebuilt with new core (~$400) 2012
-Rear heater rebuilt with new core (~$100) 2012
-LED tailights, dashlights, blinkers, and running lights
-H4 headlight bucket and halogen bulbs (so much better than the sealed beams)
-High Output 140 Amp distributor built last fall (~$200)
-VERY, very straight body panels except where there are some bubbles and the passenger rear corner that got knocked
-Strong, smooth running 2F - slight knock when cold that has been there for 3 years now without changing
-Head was surfaced and valves checked (passed with flying colors) in 2012
-New transfer case/differential fluid all the way around
-New U-joints in steering column
-Very hard to find floor mats
-New dash pad cover
-Emissions removed
-What rust is there is very treatable.
-Frame and floor panels are excellent with only surface rust on the frame and a few surface spots on the floorboards (in pictures)
-New window seal for tailgate window ($250)
-Tailgate window works (though slowly...I think new wires from the dash to the window would fix this)
-Solid brass tailgate motor gear (to replace break-prone original nylon gear)
-All glass is good without cracks or bad scratches
-Headliner is excellent (could use a wash here and there)
-Very clean heater/radio panel that I will include with the sale
-Carb rebuilt just before I got it in 2011
-Installed a hose connection between the transmission and transfer case to ensure proper fluid levels
-Stainless steel roof trim is there, but was painted over
-All cylinders checked in at 140+ PSI (more below)
-Rhino lined floor boards and cargo area
Cons
-Rust in corners of passenger door, tailgate, on two of the wheel flares, on one fender apron, and cracks in hood (all in photos).
-Driver side door stop broke with a gust of wind and door over-opened, causing the slight flare in the metal and spiderweb cracks in the paint
-Slight knock in motor only when cold (this has been present since I got it in 2011 and has not increased in intensity) - more below
-Window regulators are all functional but are nearing the end of their life. I have good used ones that can be bought if needed
-Dried goo from removed window tinting on front passenger window - just needs a razor and some time
-No sun visors but I have some and the bracket that I will throw in with the sale
-Upholstery on driver side of bench seat is starting to go
-No radio
-Slight vacuum leak in rear of intake manifold. Drives fine but wants to hesitate when starting from a stop. (I think this is the cause)
-Hi-Amp alternator means ammeter cannot work (would get fried)
-Gas gauge reads empty when there's 3-4 gallons left (I think this is common)
-Window felts need to be redone - I did the driver side but none of the others
-Small windows in passenger doors could use a new seal
-Slight rocker/tappet noise, less so once warmed
A note on the engine:
In 2012 I had had enough of the knocking so I pulled the #6 piston and took it to a machine shop (crank surface looked good with no scoring). There were slight score marks on the cylinder walls and piston skirts. The machinist (Wayne Calvert of Calvert's machine shop in Denton, TX) checked it and OK'd it to reinstall. Before reassembly I honed out the #6 cylinder and checked the ring gaps on the piston, everything came out fine (and that cylinder had the highest compression). The compression readings, taken in fall 2012 and again in spring 2013, are #1 155, #2 155, #3 150, #4 145, #5 140, #6 160. I have not noticed signs for concern (or change in the noises this motor usually makes) since reassembling the motor. The only thing I would do before a major road trip (it's already my daily driver) would be to have the intake/exhaust re-surfaced because the guy who did it the first time didn't torque the bolts holding them together, which is why I think they are a little out of alignment and are allowing a small vacuum leak. Otherwise this is a really strong 2F. I drove it from the West Coast and have driven it to Austin a few times and MO once or twice with no issues whatsoever.
The full album can be found here: http://imgur.com/a/pNVWS#14
Last edited:
