1977 FJ40 : This build thread needs a name............ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter meridian
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
thats the plan:
Finally 2 day list
- passenger fender
- bolt cage
- weld Metal Tech Bumper
- install windshield frame
- wire tail lights
- install headlights
- install seat belts
- change fluids
- swap 3rds at event for Tys 4.56
Finally 2 day list
- passenger fender
- bolt cage
- weld Metal Tech Bumper
- install windshield frame
- wire tail lights
- install headlights
- install seat belts
- change fluids
- swap 3rds at event for Tys 4.56
- Thread starter
- #63
- front bumper build
- mount winch
- mount/wire arb compressor
- LED lights front/rear
- oil change
- mount winch
- mount/wire arb compressor
- LED lights front/rear
- oil change
- Thread starter
- #64
I am going to be pulling the "new dad" card for sure and looking for help but still doable with out half assing too much
- Thread starter
- #65
I'm disappointed you won't get to see it curtis since i have been pestering you with dumb questions for months
oh ya, a extra set of your crafty hands would be helpful to get things done
oh ya, a extra set of your crafty hands would be helpful to get things done
- Thread starter
- #67
well a few things got left unfinished but it made the trail.
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- #68
- Thread starter
- #69
Decided to convert rear doors into a tailgate. First task was to grind through 1/4" of filler and cut out cancer and old galvanized patch panels. Now to get creative with some cardboard templates and start bending sheet metal.
The BudBuilt quarters were 1/2" shy of door pillar. Used a piece of 1/8" steel to fill the gap. It is on a slight angle and should not be to noticeable once filled before paint.
Back in for some more work
- Thread starter
- #70
Does anyone have any experience with using lead free metal filler ? Eastwood sells a kit that might work well to blend my quarters and rockers instead of using to much plastic filler
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- #71
Lower rust repair on rear doors. Have to come up with a hinge setup for tailgate. When tailgate is held in place confirmed that quarter panels aren't square.
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- #72
Trying to think of a downside to using barn door hinges as the lower hinge for tailgate. Looking at others that have been done most use 3 hinges. More likely re enforce the hinge mount with 1/8" plate. Still working out options.
I just used 3/4 OD x 3/8 ID steel tube and 2" flat bar to make hinges.
I think you're going to find that the tailgate needs more strength along it's length. I don't believe the two barn doors welded together have enough strength in the area between them. The first thing somebody will do out in camp is jump up to sit on your tailgate, as if it was on a pickup truck. I separated the inner and outer skins and built a steel frame using 1" x 1/2" rectangular tube for the inside. I also added 1/4" flat bar mounting points to the internal frame for the hinges, latches, and chain mounts. It's plenty strong now and, sure enough, a buddy went and sat on it the first time I layed it flat in camp.
I think you're going to find that the tailgate needs more strength along it's length. I don't believe the two barn doors welded together have enough strength in the area between them. The first thing somebody will do out in camp is jump up to sit on your tailgate, as if it was on a pickup truck. I separated the inner and outer skins and built a steel frame using 1" x 1/2" rectangular tube for the inside. I also added 1/4" flat bar mounting points to the internal frame for the hinges, latches, and chain mounts. It's plenty strong now and, sure enough, a buddy went and sat on it the first time I layed it flat in camp.
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- #74
That is exactly what I was looking for. The internal frame sounds like a good idea.
What did you use for a latch?
What did you use for a latch?
I had a right and left movable latch and the stationary latches to go with them, which were all still available for purchase back then. You can find the right-side movable latches pretty easily (the barn doors have one), but the lefts are difficult to find. With a little effort, you can turn a right into a left, if you can't find a left to buy.
I sold the stationary latches that I had and made a set out of 2x2 angle to match the original ambulance door mount.
I sold the stationary latches that I had and made a set out of 2x2 angle to match the original ambulance door mount.
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- #76
I am on the hunt for another latch but my have to use sliding pins as a temporary fix.
Started to finish off the tube fenders, which are turning out to be a pile of work. Definately be better at it next time.
Started to finish off the tube fenders, which are turning out to be a pile of work. Definately be better at it next time.
I thought it was 78 up
- Thread starter
- #78
Both quarters are finally welded and ready for filler. A friend stopped over to give a crash course in finishing body work. I don't have much experience with mixing/spreading/sanding so the help was much appreciated
There is a few different angles with the addition of 3/16" steel in rockers and quarters. Going to have to make "new" lines but should come out close enough that only the purists will notice.
- Thread starter
- #79
Last to finish off welding/fabricating of the quarter panels was the rear door edge. Best I could come up with was to use 14gauge steel and butt up to the quarters. Using plug welds it turned out plenty strong and even looks close to origional
76-78 had fine spline long birfs. 79 and up had fine spline short birfs.
To the OP, it may be blasphemy but you could use Jeep CJ tailgate hinges. They work pretty well.
