IH 1969 Loadstar 1700 Shop Truck Build

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Joined
Dec 22, 2015
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Location
Whitefish/Bozeman, MT
For several months now I have been toying with the idea of getting a shop truck. Not the normal kind of shop truck though: instead of being used at a shop this would be the shop. While casually perusing local (and some not-so-local) classifieds I stumbled on an ad for a 1969 International Loadstar 1700 refrigerated box truck. 22k GVW, 345 V8, 5-speed T36 transmission and an Eaton 2-speed rear axle. The price seemed decent, the ad claimed a good running engine and overall decent mechanical condition with good brakes. I went and looked at the truck and it was as described. The engine fired right up after sitting for months and sounded healthy, tires were old but still had good tread and held air, and the cab wasn't completely rusted out.

A couple of weeks later a friend and I drove the 250 miles back to the truck and I bought it. We hit the road for home as quickly as possible due to the low top speed of the truck. Initially I was pretty concerned as the trip got off to a rather inauspicious start. First the 2-speed rear axle was stuck in low gear and wouldn't shift. I fiddled with the fuse and it started working again. Then leaving the gas station (after putting over 40 gallons in the tank!) the engine died while I was driving and I coasted to the shoulder. I had forgotten to turn on the electric fuel pump (wired to a switch mounted in the engine bay). After stopping to grab a bite to eat the carb repeatedly flooded, culminating in an engine drenched in gasoline and a dead battery. We let it dry out and then jump started the engine.

The next few hours of driving were fairly uneventful, and I began to gain confidence. Top speed seemed to be around 53mph, though the truck felt happier at around 47. Mountain passes (there were four on our route) were managed in 3rd high or 4th low at around 23-25mph. Most of the gauges worked, all the lights were good, I started to get the hang of the unconventional shift pattern.

Then, while pulling a large hill the engine started to intermittently sputter and cough. I barely crested the hill just as it finally cut out completely and coasted down the other side to a chain removal pullout at the bottom. As it turned out the alternator had quit charging some time ago and the battery was completely dead. We were at least an hour from the nearest town and well out of cell range, so while the battery charged up with jumper cables from my friend's Tundra we launched into diagnostic mode. After some digging around I found the field coil wire on the alternator was very loose and the pins extremely grimy. I cleaned the contacts as best I could with limited tools and fired up the engine. To my relief the ammeter promptly jumped up to around +30 amps. Once back on the road the truck ran much better than it had been; spark had likely been weak for a while.

We finally rolled into town at about 10pm without further incident, very relieved to be off the road after a long day. Fuel consumption averaged around 4.3mpg for the trip; average speed was about 38mph.

The plan for this truck is to turn it into a small, semi-mobile workshop and tool storage unit. This will be a very budget oriented build, with most components coming used from Craigslist or Marketplace. I have located a large RV style generator to provide power to run lights, some power tools, my welder and eventually a small AC unit since the original refrigeration unit has long since been removed. A couple of basic work benches with some shelving for storage will complete the interior build. The truck has the remnants of a lift gate on the back; the pump, ram and driven arm are still present, but it needs a platform and the other arms. The lift gate is still in production, so I hope to be able to find used parts to put it back together.

Overall the truck is in pretty good shape and only needs minor work. The carburetor will get rebuilt to help it stop flooding and leaking fuel everywhere, and the fuel pump will get wired into the ignition. The parking brake needs adjustment, and now there is an electrical short somewhere that blows the fuse for the 2-speed axle every time it is shifted into low gear. I will probably replace the windshield gasket as well, since the rubber has shrunk and split in old age, leaving several large gaps of almost an inch.
IMG_5860.webp
 
For several months now I have been toying with the idea of getting a shop truck. Not the normal kind of shop truck though: instead of being used at a shop this would be the shop. While casually perusing local (and some not-so-local) classifieds I stumbled on an ad for a 1969 International Loadstar 1700 refrigerated box truck. 22k GVW, 345 V8, 5-speed T36 transmission and an Eaton 2-speed rear axle. The price seemed decent, the ad claimed a good running engine and overall decent mechanical condition with good brakes. I went and looked at the truck and it was as described. The engine fired right up after sitting for months and sounded healthy, tires were old but still had good tread and held air, and the cab wasn't completely rusted out.

A couple of weeks later a friend and I drove the 250 miles back to the truck and I bought it. We hit the road for home as quickly as possible due to the low top speed of the truck. Initially I was pretty concerned as the trip got off to a rather inauspicious start. First the 2-speed rear axle was stuck in low gear and wouldn't shift. I fiddled with the fuse and it started working again. Then leaving the gas station (after putting over 40 gallons in the tank!) the engine died while I was driving and I coasted to the shoulder. I had forgotten to turn on the electric fuel pump (wired to a switch mounted in the engine bay). After stopping to grab a bite to eat the carb repeatedly flooded, culminating in an engine drenched in gasoline and a dead battery. We let it dry out and then jump started the engine.

The next few hours of driving were fairly uneventful, and I began to gain confidence. Top speed seemed to be around 53mph, though the truck felt happier at around 47. Mountain passes (there were four on our route) were managed in 3rd high or 4th low at around 23-25mph. Most of the gauges worked, all the lights were good, I started to get the hang of the unconventional shift pattern.

Then, while pulling a large hill the engine started to intermittently sputter and cough. I barely crested the hill just as it finally cut out completely and coasted down the other side to a chain removal pullout at the bottom. As it turned out the alternator had quit charging some time ago and the battery was completely dead. We were at least an hour from the nearest town and well out of cell range, so while the battery charged up with jumper cables from my friend's Tundra we launched into diagnostic mode. After some digging around I found the field coil wire on the alternator was very loose and the pins extremely grimy. I cleaned the contacts as best I could with limited tools and fired up the engine. To my relief the ammeter promptly jumped up to around +30 amps. Once back on the road the truck ran much better than it had been; spark had likely been weak for a while.

We finally rolled into town at about 10pm without further incident, very relieved to be off the road after a long day. Fuel consumption averaged around 4.3mpg for the trip; average speed was about 38mph.

The plan for this truck is to turn it into a small, semi-mobile workshop and tool storage unit. This will be a very budget oriented build, with most components coming used from Craigslist or Marketplace. I have located a large RV style generator to provide power to run lights, some power tools, my welder and eventually a small AC unit since the original refrigeration unit has long since been removed. A couple of basic work benches with some shelving for storage will complete the interior build. The truck has the remnants of a lift gate on the back; the pump, ram and driven arm are still present, but it needs a platform and the other arms. The lift gate is still in production, so I hope to be able to find used parts to put it back together.

Overall the truck is in pretty good shape and only needs minor work. The carburetor will get rebuilt to help it stop flooding and leaking fuel everywhere, and the fuel pump will get wired into the ignition. The parking brake needs adjustment, and now there is an electrical short somewhere that blows the fuse for the 2-speed axle every time it is shifted into low gear. I will probably replace the windshield gasket as well, since the rubber has shrunk and split in old age, leaving several large gaps of almost an inch.
View attachment 3615269
I would see if I could find a LP or Diesel fired ThermoKing unit from a used trailer and install a refer on that box. Will need to add a fuel tank for it. Refer trailers have their own fuel tank and you can find on on a used trailer fairly easily I would think.

I have spent many hours behind the wheel of our 1966 IH TurdStar 1800 manure spreader truck. Looked like a dump truck with beaters in the back and a drag chain on the floor of the bed. Had a PTO on the transmission that could be engaged, then dump the clutch in gear and spread the love!

Had the same 345 / 5 sp / 2Sp axle. So far the speeds and operation is exactly my experience. If loaded heavy, the shifting pattern was weird. Started in low, then to next gear, then down one with 2sp on high, then next gear low.......something like that. When I was doing it every day, I could do it without looking and it was smooth, but lots of up/down, 2Sp lo/hi.

Had a hydraulic clutch cylinder, double clutched when heavy. Most of the time I didn't use the clutch if I wasn't pushing it hard.

Ours had air over hydraulic brakes and did a GREAT job of stopping that truck. (Until a hired hand poured hydraulic OIL into the brake master cylinder.)

Always reliable as could be. Get the carb rebuilt. Sound like the float is sticking from sitting too long.
Carry an extra condenser and set of points in the glove box.

I would eliminate the electric fuel pump. They tend to build too much pressure for the older carbs and push past the needle and seat and cause flooding issues. However, finding a factory fuel pump may be difficult. Make sure of the location of your fuel filter in that case. Only place the filter on the pressure side, not the vacuum side of the pump, between the pump and carb. The electric can have the filter at the tank and then the pump to carb, but I would still do an additional filter at the carb to reduce the pump pulsations.
You may end up needing to run non-ethanol gasoline, as some of the old carbs would run hot and will boil off today's fuels. My Studebaker HATES ethanol and I have been stranded a few times because of it. (Vapor lock)

And get a REAL horn.
If you have air brakes and a reservoir, get a set of air horns!

Enjoy it!
 
Sweet. Memorable road trip home! :lol:

Sounds like a cool project.

What sort of work do you do?
I am working as the welder/fabricator at a small manufacturing company, but this will be primarily for personal use since currently almost all my tools are a 5.5 hour drive away. This way I will have a small space to work on all the projects that have been piling up for the past couple of years.
 
I would see if I could find a LP or Diesel fired ThermoKing unit from a used trailer and install a refer on that box. Will need to add a fuel tank for it. Refer trailers have their own fuel tank and you can find on on a used trailer fairly easily I would think.

I have spent many hours behind the wheel of our 1966 IH TurdStar 1800 manure spreader truck. Looked like a dump truck with beaters in the back and a drag chain on the floor of the bed. Had a PTO on the transmission that could be engaged, then dump the clutch in gear and spread the love!

Had the same 345 / 5 sp / 2Sp axle. So far the speeds and operation is exactly my experience. If loaded heavy, the shifting pattern was weird. Started in low, then to next gear, then down one with 2sp on high, then next gear low.......something like that. When I was doing it every day, I could do it without looking and it was smooth, but lots of up/down, 2Sp lo/hi.

Had a hydraulic clutch cylinder, double clutched when heavy. Most of the time I didn't use the clutch if I wasn't pushing it hard.

Ours had air over hydraulic brakes and did a GREAT job of stopping that truck. (Until a hired hand poured hydraulic OIL into the brake master cylinder.)

Always reliable as could be. Get the carb rebuilt. Sound like the float is sticking from sitting too long.
Carry an extra condenser and set of points in the glove box.

I would eliminate the electric fuel pump. They tend to build too much pressure for the older carbs and push past the needle and seat and cause flooding issues. However, finding a factory fuel pump may be difficult. Make sure of the location of your fuel filter in that case. Only place the filter on the pressure side, not the vacuum side of the pump, between the pump and carb. The electric can have the filter at the tank and then the pump to carb, but I would still do an additional filter at the carb to reduce the pump pulsations.
You may end up needing to run non-ethanol gasoline, as some of the old carbs would run hot and will boil off today's fuels. My Studebaker HATES ethanol and I have been stranded a few times because of it. (Vapor lock)

And get a REAL horn.
If you have air brakes and a reservoir, get a set of air horns!

Enjoy it!
Thanks for the input! I am planning on sticking with a window mount AC unit since I don't need the cooling capacity of a reefer unit and will have power available from the generator. It shouldn't take much to keep the box cool enough to work in; it is insulated with about 3" of high density foam.

This truck doesn't have air brakes, just vacuum assisted hydraulic drum brakes. That said, they do work quite well (almost too effective at low speeds). With the truck unloaded I don't have to split gears except when pulling hills, but it is nice to be able to get rolling in 1st low before switching to high gear for the rest.

The truck came with an original style mechanical fuel pump, new in box, so I think I will go with that based on your recommendation. Having to run around and switch the fuel pump on and off under the hood gets really old!

The engine seems to run fine on regular unleaded gas, I haven't run it on a really hot day yet but it runs really cool. Even after a few hours driving I can still hold on to the upper radiator hose.

This probably won't see more than a few hundred miles per year of road use, mostly just short trips into town for occasional projects or to get fuel.
 
Picked up a couple of used kitchen cabinets for free on Craigslist, they’ll get incorporated into some kind of work bench in the front of the box.
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Also did a little digging into the electrical system to try and figure out what is blowing the rear axle fuse. Nothing conclusive yet, but with a new fuse I was able to get the axle back into high gear so at least the truck is drivable.
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Picked up a couple of used kitchen cabinets for free on Craigslist, they’ll get incorporated into some kind of work bench in the front of the box.
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Also did a little digging into the electrical system to try and figure out what is blowing the rear axle fuse. Nothing conclusive yet, but with a new fuse I was able to get the axle back into high gear so at least the truck is drivable.
View attachment 3618288
Probably a bare wire where it stops past the shift lever under the tunnel. It will occasionally touch ground and short out, blowing the fuse.

Could also be because it had not been used much and the two speed box is gummy, drawing too many amps. Needs to be driven.

Are you going to make a sleeping area in there, like a twin bed loft that you can swing up into and sleep on the job site?

Sweet setup.
 
Probably a bare wire where it stops past the shift lever under the tunnel. It will occasionally touch ground and short out, blowing the fuse.

Could also be because it had not been used much and the two speed box is gummy, drawing too many amps. Needs to be driven.

Are you going to make a sleeping area in there, like a twin bed loft that you can swing up into and sleep on the job site?

Sweet setup.
Very likely a short somewhere in the system. The wiring along the frame going back to the actuator is relatively new and in good shape, but the main power from the fuse goes through the firewall, then across the engine bay and down amongst the clutch and throttle linkages. I haven't gotten a good look at that wiring, but I suspect that is where the problem lies.

Could also be the actuator, though it recently had fresh oil and worked just fine on my 250 mile trip home. The other thought that occurred to me was if the switch got bumped while the truck was stationary, would the motor be prevented from shifting all the way and eventually blow the fuse?

No sleeping arrangements planned, this truck likely won't be driven more than an hour from home under my ownership.
 
Very likely a short somewhere in the system. The wiring along the frame going back to the actuator is relatively new and in good shape, but the main power from the fuse goes through the firewall, then across the engine bay and down amongst the clutch and throttle linkages. I haven't gotten a good look at that wiring, but I suspect that is where the problem lies.

Could also be the actuator, though it recently had fresh oil and worked just fine on my 250 mile trip home. The other thought that occurred to me was if the switch got bumped while the truck was stationary, would the motor be prevented from shifting all the way and eventually blow the fuse?

No sleeping arrangements planned, this truck likely won't be driven more than an hour from home under my ownership.
I don't recall if the two speed switch is hot at all times or only when the ignition is on.

If it has been wired so it's hot, then what you said makes sense.
 
Found that the coolant temperature sender wire had fallen off the sending unit. I plugged it back in and the temp gauge works!
 
Time for some carburetor identification. The list number on my carburetor is 4412-S, which does not show up on any Holley documentation that I've found, but all versions of the 4412 cross to the Holley 2300 with rebuild kit 37-474. The date code appears to indicate that this is the original carburetor on this engine, manufactured on May 25, 1969.

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It took all day running around town, but I finally rounded up the parts to replace the fuel filler cap and tank vent hose. The gasket on the old cap was completely worn out and the vent tube cracked so that fuel poured out whenever I came to a quick stop.
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As is the case with everything I own, the tubing for the tank vent was an oddball size. I finally tracked down some truck air line that fit at a local implement dealer. As it turned out, they used to be the local International dealership back when that was still a thing. There were old emblems and cans of International branded lubricants on display behind the counter. I may be able to get filters and other maintenance items from them in the future.

There were a couple of old 'Binders in the parking lot too.
Spiffy looking Loadstar dump truck:
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Fleetstar? Still has the hand painted dealership logo on the doors:
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Also found that I have a couple of coolant leaks in the water pump and thermostat area. Looks like they all originate from hose/water pump housing connections, so I think I will start by pulling the hoses off and cleaning up the inlet and outlet flanges on the water pump. It started snowing a couple of hours ago though, so that job will have to wait until later in the week once it warms up again!
 
My view this morning:
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Snowed until about 1 pm, and only got up to 36°F in the afternoon with a constant light rain. No work on the truck today, but the carburetor rebuild kit should arrive tomorrow. Hoping to knock that out sometime next week.
 
Carb kit was delayed (probably because of road closures all day yesterday due to the storm), but it did warm up a little this afternoon so I had a crack at taking care of the coolant leaks. I drained the radiator into a bucket and pulled the hoses off the water pump. As expected, the inlet and outlet on the water pump were super crusty, so I cleaned them up as much as I could.

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The coolant that came out of the radiator was very dark and mucky so I took the opportunity to do a quick radiator flush. After pouring a few gallons of water through it started to clear up a little, so I closed the system back up, really cranked down the hose clamps and gently decanted the coolant back in. At some point I will get all new coolant and flush the block as well, but I didn't have the time this evening.

A short test drive was in order to try and work any bubbles out of the system so I drove a couple miles down the road and back. I noticed that the oil pressure and coolant temp gauge suddenly quit while I was driving, and then discovered that the turn signals, hazard flashers, and 2-speed rear were not working either. Looks like the issue with the 2-speed is further upstream than I thought. I still need to track down a decent wiring diagram for this truck, I found one online but it is pretty much illegible due to poor image quality.

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Cleaning up the coolant hose connections appears to have solved the coolant loss issue, there has been no significant drop in coolant level in the radiator in the past couple of weeks.

Not much has been done to the truck recently, though I have been collecting parts for the shop build. Bought a used continuous duty 6500W RV style generator and scored a window mount AC for free on Craigslist. Got an upright Quincy air compressor too, but at 60 gallons it is a little large for the space available. Will probably sell it and get a smaller unit.
 
Haven't done much to the truck recently, still haven't gotten around to rebuilding the carb or replacing the fuel pump. A few changes of plan for the interior, I got rid of the old kitchen cabinets, built a small workbench in the front of the box and installed some cheap LED lights. The plan is to build some shelves above the bench and some additional storage cabinets on the opposite side of the box.
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Brought a bunch of my tools back from my brother's shop a couple of weeks ago, promptly made a huge mess of the inside until I can get the storage shelves built.
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I was also able to track down the right kind of ratchet straps to work with the old F-track load rails in this thing, not too easy to come by anymore since everything has gone to E-track.
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Got steel cut and prepped this evening to build the frame to mount the generator, hoping to get that put on sometime next week and I'll finally have power.
 
Welded up the frame to hold the generator and drilled out the mounting holes in the chassis to mount it there. Waiting on the correct size drill bit to put in some rivet nuts in the floor stringers to finish it.
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Got a small crane mounted on the rear step. The plan is to build a pedestal and tie it in with the wall of the box for extra rigidity. It’s tied in to one of the grab handles with a ratchet strap right now and it’s surprising how much stability even that adds.
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Also put up my drill press today, still waiting on a new chuck since I scavenged the chuck off this one for my larger floor standing drill press.
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Got my generator mount painted. The new crane makes a nice hanger for painting.

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