I hope what Fox is refering to is the threaded stud towards the rear of the block, the one carb linkage pivots on......I think what Wes is thinking of is the splined pin mid-block that is the anchor for the 2 springs in the carb linkage...if you are going to use a late F block without a 1 bbl you don't need the pin
1959 FJ25 Soft Top Frame Off Restoration
- Thread starter foxfab
- Start date
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I assume that they used the regular motor mounts on the trucks they were installing the F engines in at the time since the casing for them is in the block. I noticed the one my early 60 FJ25s were the same way. I wonder if the block was case this way back in 1955 when the FJ started or was this a change that was made and installed on the trucks first.
A lot of time I wonder why in the world did I buy four of these things. Then after reading this thread I realized as I'm sure as Jim and Phil know it's nice having your own junk yard. But for some reason the other half doesn't feel the same way
John
A lot of time I wonder why in the world did I buy four of these things. Then after reading this thread I realized as I'm sure as Jim and Phil know it's nice having your own junk yard. But for some reason the other half doesn't feel the same way
John
Oh yeah, when he opens it up get the pan back from him. Pretty good chance it's rotted and leaking between the skidplate and pan, or about to be....................... My last one had a rust hole in the side.
- Thread starter
- #44
Hmm, maybe this is the pin that the springs attach to. Man I hope so. I can just weld sonmething on that if it is. Its been so long since I took it apart and I[ havent looked at mine in about the same time.
Thanks for the offers guys, I'll let ya know.
I'm having him pull the pan and crank to get the clutch and flywheel off.
The pan looks to be in ok shape. We'll see.
Thanks for the offers guys, I'll let ya know.
I'm having him pull the pan and crank to get the clutch and flywheel off.
The pan looks to be in ok shape. We'll see.
foxfab said:I'm having him pull the pan and crank to get the clutch and flywheel off.
That's what made me think of it....with my previous silly post about torching the clutch disk. 
- Thread starter
- #46
ok, today i pressure washed the trans and t case to save jim a little work. i also pulled the shifter off the trans. as i suspected, it sat without ever moving for quite some time so the gears had rust on them where they were sitting out of the gear oil. the shift forks were also very frozen. but i think hts salvageable.
i took the shift forks apart and cleaned them up as best I could. All seems to shift well now. after taking a wire brush to the gears and moving the gears back and forth, the trans finally will rotate smoothly. i havent pulled the inspection cover on the t case, but i suspect the same issues on that. tomorrow, i'll drain what gear oil is in it and blow it all out in the parts washer. cruser-nerd, its all yours
i took the shift forks apart and cleaned them up as best I could. All seems to shift well now. after taking a wire brush to the gears and moving the gears back and forth, the trans finally will rotate smoothly. i havent pulled the inspection cover on the t case, but i suspect the same issues on that. tomorrow, i'll drain what gear oil is in it and blow it all out in the parts washer. cruser-nerd, its all yours
- Thread starter
- #47
Status report:
9:00AM: acid washed frame
It turns any surface rust into some black oxide and stops it forever once coated.
10:00AM: rinsed frame with water. Then mixed up a bucket of Castrol Super Clean and water for a final wash down. Cleaned shop out thoroughly and washed down the floor. Water on the floor keeps the dust down to a minimum and works well. Brought the frame inside and fired up the propane heater to dry it off. Spent lots of time with the air chuck blowing out every nook and cranny.
1:30 final wipe down with degreaser.
2:00PM: Cruser_Nerd stopped by to pick up the tranny/xfer and see what all I was up to.
3:00: Got to spray'in.
3:45PM one coat of epoxy primer laid down...
4:15PM first coat is flashed, time for another coat.
5:00PM second coat of epoxy is down. Wife feeling sick.... DOH!
I have to wait an hour or so now to flip it.
6:50PM Well, flipping the frame didnt go so well.
I need to have more kids so I have more hands to help. The angle iron that the back of the frame was resting on decided not to stay in place and the back of the frame fell to the ground while flipping it, abruptly cutting my extension cord in half and shearing the line from the propane tank to the heater. When things go wrong, they REALLY go wrong 
The propane was quickly shut off and now I am without heat and without one less extension cord. So, I was a little smarter and put the engine hoist on the back crossmember with a strap and was able to flip it without any more issues. But I think I need to find a better way to do this once I am actually painting it. The first coat of epoxy is on the bottom of the frame now. I'll have to wait a bit longer on this one since the temps are dropping out there without heat.
8PM: after a quick BK dinner, I finished off the last coat and cleaned the gun. Whew, what a day!
9:00AM: acid washed frame
It turns any surface rust into some black oxide and stops it forever once coated.
10:00AM: rinsed frame with water. Then mixed up a bucket of Castrol Super Clean and water for a final wash down. Cleaned shop out thoroughly and washed down the floor. Water on the floor keeps the dust down to a minimum and works well. Brought the frame inside and fired up the propane heater to dry it off. Spent lots of time with the air chuck blowing out every nook and cranny.
1:30 final wipe down with degreaser.
2:00PM: Cruser_Nerd stopped by to pick up the tranny/xfer and see what all I was up to.
3:00: Got to spray'in.
3:45PM one coat of epoxy primer laid down...
4:15PM first coat is flashed, time for another coat.
5:00PM second coat of epoxy is down. Wife feeling sick.... DOH!
I have to wait an hour or so now to flip it.
6:50PM Well, flipping the frame didnt go so well.
I need to have more kids so I have more hands to help. The angle iron that the back of the frame was resting on decided not to stay in place and the back of the frame fell to the ground while flipping it, abruptly cutting my extension cord in half and shearing the line from the propane tank to the heater. When things go wrong, they REALLY go wrong The propane was quickly shut off and now I am without heat and without one less extension cord. So, I was a little smarter and put the engine hoist on the back crossmember with a strap and was able to flip it without any more issues. But I think I need to find a better way to do this once I am actually painting it. The first coat of epoxy is on the bottom of the frame now. I'll have to wait a bit longer on this one since the temps are dropping out there without heat.8PM: after a quick BK dinner, I finished off the last coat and cleaned the gun. Whew, what a day!
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Well, if Mike doesn't check in around 7:00 maybe we should call 911........hope you all don't have pounding headaches tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #49
My wife is a hypocondriac. She has to leave the room if the dog farts. 
- Thread starter
- #51
Fortunately not , but she did catch the comment about me putting the compressor in the basement and not in the shop so that it would annoy them instead of me
, but she did catch the comment about me putting the compressor in the basement and not in the shop so that it would annoy them instead of me
- Thread starter
- #52
I got a few runs from trying to spray too close to get inside the rails. Fortunately, this is primer and I can easily remove them
Can your paint shop make some spray bombs for you? Easiest way to paint the hard parts inside the rails.........then go back and overcoat with the spray gun the stuff you'll see.
- Thread starter
- #54
This morning, I stopped by Machine and Diesel in New Haven, CT, the machine shop that is rebuilding the engine. They said it took an entire day to disassemble the engine. See pics for further explaination
What a mess. But as long as the block isnt cracked, they feel that they can save it. There is speculation about how or why the entire crank case was filled with coolant, but the coolant passeges were dry....
I also dropped off the clutch and pressure plate to get rebuilt at a company called NORKOR in North Haven, CT. They were recommended by Machine and Diesel for doing old school parts restoration. The disk still had lots of meat on it and there were no hot spots on the pressure plate.
Both of these shops are the kind of shops that are dark, dirty, and messy. These are always the best places to have work done
What a mess. But as long as the block isnt cracked, they feel that they can save it. There is speculation about how or why the entire crank case was filled with coolant, but the coolant passeges were dry....
I also dropped off the clutch and pressure plate to get rebuilt at a company called NORKOR in North Haven, CT. They were recommended by Machine and Diesel for doing old school parts restoration. The disk still had lots of meat on it and there were no hot spots on the pressure plate.
Both of these shops are the kind of shops that are dark, dirty, and messy. These are always the best places to have work done
Cam looks good! Mike, looks like that motor drowned, sure they didn't drive this thing into Pond Lily?
Is that a hemi? Seriously, is it just me or does the combustion chamber on that head look...................different? And I'm not talking about the rust.
Mike, looks like that motor drowned, sure they didn't drive this thing into Pond Lily?Is that a hemi? Seriously, is it just me or does the combustion chamber on that head look...................different? And I'm not talking about the rust.
Frame is looking real nice! Hope you dont mind If I watch this build as well!
- Thread starter
- #58
Cruiser_Nerd said:Is that a hemi? Seriously, is it just me or does the combustion chamber on that head look...................different? And I'm not talking about the rust.
The block is recessed. I've never seen what it should look like so I'm at a loss
All the simese head I've seen looked like that.. They were all early 40 motors though, F135's not an F120, never seen one of those
This was the bottom end of my 66 simese f135...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=718554&postcount=4
I'll have to take a pic of the head chambers
This was the bottom end of my 66 simese f135...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=718554&postcount=4
I'll have to take a pic of the head chambers
- Thread starter
- #60
The machine shop said that if the block hadn't gotten water in it, it probably wouldn't have needed to be cut. There were no scores on the cylinder walls and no ridge. the cam shows no sign of wear and the valves have plenty of meat on them to re-grind. I think the reason it stopped running was because they never drove it.
We're going .020 over on the bores to clean them up. I am sticking to some of the updated parts for this like the water pump kit and the oil pump kit (no real choice here), just so that in the event the owner needs to replace something, it'll be a more readily available part.
We're going .020 over on the bores to clean them up. I am sticking to some of the updated parts for this like the water pump kit and the oil pump kit (no real choice here), just so that in the event the owner needs to replace something, it'll be a more readily available part.
