Didn't see it posted anywhere. What do you guys think about the lower t-stat to assist with cooling issues. I reach 225 at idle in 10 minutes right now 100-118 degrees ambient. Replaced everything. No luck. And I mean everything. Now Im thinking the t-stat would be an easy mod before the fan clutch mod. I know they are used for supercharged engines but I wonder if the lower temp will harm anything if I don't have a SC.
160 degree thermostat for cooling issues????? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mkonecek
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Mike6158
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Lower temps changes the combustion efficiency and products (not in a good way). Besides that, what thermostat are you running now. If it's 180 then switching to 160 isn't going to help much other than it'll be wide open a little sooner. The radiator is a heat exchanger. The cooling medium is air. Apparently very hot air. More air should help but only 10° or 15° or so. Currently you have about a 107° delta T (225-118)... vs 80° - 90° on a 100° day in TX in my LC. Are you sure your fan clutch isn't bad? What does the temp do when you are moving?
Using a lower rated T-Stat will not cure overheating problems, it will only delay it.
It is possible your current T-Stat isn't working correctly....so replacing it (or at least testing it) would not be a bad thing, but if it IS working properly...then your issue is elsewhere and your engine will still overheat, it will just take a bit longer to do so.
When you say you've replaced 'everything', can be more specific?
I bought a 16 year old Toyota Tacoma TRD extended cab that only had 18,000 miles on it. The owner disclosed before I bought it that it had an overheating problem & he had put twin electric fans on it, 160 degree thermostat & it was still overheating.
After I purchased it, it took me about a month to figure it out. The truck's radiator locked clean but, since the owner lived on a 5 mile dirt road the flutes were clogged from dust getting hard like concrete.
Btw the owner was elderly man, the truck had never been purposely mud riding.
After I purchased it, it took me about a month to figure it out. The truck's radiator locked clean but, since the owner lived on a 5 mile dirt road the flutes were clogged from dust getting hard like concrete.
Btw the owner was elderly man, the truck had never been purposely mud riding.
- Thread starter
- #5
I’ve replaced the following:
Radiator
Fan clutch
T stat
Water pump
Coolant
Plastic tees
Added the aux fan
Nothing made it better. Only part that was aftermarket was the radiator. Didn’t matter anyways...
If I increase the idle, it cools. Driving it is fine. Off roading or at idle it will get hot enough to cut the compressor.
Will mod the clutch over the winter as a next step. Hate to do it cause it’s just a bandaid. But I’m at the end of options. Lexus of chandler called normal.
Radiator
Fan clutch
T stat
Water pump
Coolant
Plastic tees
Added the aux fan
Nothing made it better. Only part that was aftermarket was the radiator. Didn’t matter anyways...
If I increase the idle, it cools. Driving it is fine. Off roading or at idle it will get hot enough to cut the compressor.
Will mod the clutch over the winter as a next step. Hate to do it cause it’s just a bandaid. But I’m at the end of options. Lexus of chandler called normal.
You have an air flow problem, thats why increasing the engine speed cools the engine, the fan pulls more air past the radiator. Thats also why it does not overheat while driving. A clutch fan is not needed at road speeds above 35mph.
Moving the hot coolant through the radiator faster cools it quicker too.
Are you sure your fan clutch is working, it is new but that does not mean it is not bad.
Did you let it "settle" before installing it? You're supposed to let a fan clutch sit vertical overnight before using it otherwise the fluid can be forced out of it's cavities by centrifugal force, I learned that the hard way.
Also, did you install the fan the correct way? The cupped part of the blades are supposed to face the engine, I learned that the hard way too, put the fan on backwards, it still looked correct, but it was backwards.
It'll still move air, just not much.
But like everyone else said, a colder thermostat will not solve anything. You can also leave the t-stat out completely. That will solve your problem until you can fix it correctly. MPG will suffer though.
Moving the hot coolant through the radiator faster cools it quicker too.
Are you sure your fan clutch is working, it is new but that does not mean it is not bad.
Did you let it "settle" before installing it? You're supposed to let a fan clutch sit vertical overnight before using it otherwise the fluid can be forced out of it's cavities by centrifugal force, I learned that the hard way.
Also, did you install the fan the correct way? The cupped part of the blades are supposed to face the engine, I learned that the hard way too, put the fan on backwards, it still looked correct, but it was backwards.
It'll still move air, just not much.
But like everyone else said, a colder thermostat will not solve anything. You can also leave the t-stat out completely. That will solve your problem until you can fix it correctly. MPG will suffer though.
- Thread starter
- #7
I agree that it’s an airflow problem. To an extent. It is getting airflow. Holds paper to the radiator at idle. My theory is that the engine runs hotter than normal therefore the factory rate of airflow will not cool it at idle.
The old fan clutch operated the same as the new one. That was the first part replaced 2 summers ago.
Only other thing I can think of would be the temp gauge reading higher than normal. Gonna check that next.
The old fan clutch operated the same as the new one. That was the first part replaced 2 summers ago.
Only other thing I can think of would be the temp gauge reading higher than normal. Gonna check that next.
Im in Mesa as well and am not getting temps that high if you need help let me know I have TIS and we can do some active testing.
Filthy AC coil and or trans cooler in front of the radiator blocking airflow perhaps?
I assume you have checked the temp via live data, and have washed the front and back of the radiator and condenser with the garden hose.
A faulty coolant temp sensor could be the issue, if the dash and the ECU get their reading from the same sensor and it is sending a false signal...
I am also assuming you have done a complete cooling system flush.
I have this, it's a fun little toy.
A bad radiator cap will cause overheating. You need the correct cooling system pressure to keep temps down.
PT Auto Warehouse T148 - Safe Thermo Radiator Cap - 16 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160IHIB4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_tJc1zbKQT4149
A faulty coolant temp sensor could be the issue, if the dash and the ECU get their reading from the same sensor and it is sending a false signal...
I am also assuming you have done a complete cooling system flush.
I have this, it's a fun little toy.
A bad radiator cap will cause overheating. You need the correct cooling system pressure to keep temps down.
PT Auto Warehouse T148 - Safe Thermo Radiator Cap - 16 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160IHIB4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_tJc1zbKQT4149
Radiators can get damaged during shipping. Those fins are tiny and brittle and since yours is aftermarket it may not have the same performance as an oem to begin with.
At least make sure there are no damaged parts. Thermostat in backwards?
Maybe the thermostats wax is half bad and its not opening all the way fast enough.
At least make sure there are no damaged parts. Thermostat in backwards?
Maybe the thermostats wax is half bad and its not opening all the way fast enough.
