13BT Pyro Install (1 Viewer)

[BTC95]

I am planning on installing a pyro in my BJ74 and had a couple questions for thise that have done it before.
I want to install the probe pre turbo and therefor plan to put it in the manifold by drilling a hole and tapping it. Can this be done with the exhaust manifold on the truck, or does it have to be removed?
Thanks

 

[Captain Caveman]

I am planning on installing a pyro in my BJ74 and had a couple questions for thise that have done it before.
I want to install the probe pre turbo and therefor plan to put it in the manifold by drilling a hole and tapping it. Can this be done with the exhaust manifold on the truck, or does it have to be removed?
Thanks

I removed mine, and would suggest you do the same. Yes, it is a pain in the arse to remove it, but it is easier and cheaper to remove it then it is to dig out metal shavings from the cylinders and turbine housing.

 

[rutbeer]

I put mine in the down pipe just a few inches below the turbo. Much easier to weld a bung there and it puts the pyro wire pointed right where I want it. Of course, this is the age old debate on whether it's better to have it at the manifold. Me, I just lowered my "acceptable" heat range for backing off and I don't worry about it.

 

[prado t]

Sometimes the sensor in the pre-turbo applications tend to breakdown quicker than the post-turbo installation. I have mine post-turbo . Some say there is a 200 deg f difference between pre and post readings. Like the guys above I would do it post on the down pipe for it being an easier installation and probe longetivity.

 

[BTC95]

The myth of probes deteriorating and breaking apart and causing catastrophic engine/turbo faliure is an urban legend in my opinion. These same probes get put in Semi units and see literally millions of miles and countless more heat cycles than one of our Toyota's would ever put them through.
The whole point of installing a pyro is so I know exactly what my egt's are, with the probe installed after the Turbo, I will only have a general idea of that info, which to me negates the whole purpose of a pyro install. Allthough putting the probe post turbo would be easier, in my opinion its not the right way to do it.
Thanks

 

[prado t]

The myth of probes deteriorating and breaking apart and causing catastrophic engine/turbo faliure is an urban legend in my opinion. These same probes get put in Semi units and see literally millions of miles and countless more heat cycles than one of our Toyota's would ever put them through.
The whole point of installing a pyro is so I know exactly what my egt's are, with the probe installed after the Turbo, I will only have a general idea of that info, which to me negates the whole purpose of a pyro install. Allthough putting the probe post turbo would be easier, in my opinion its not the right way to do it.
Thanks

Heavy equipment and heavy hauling is my JOB and all pyro probes on semis are on the downpipe. Yup if you like accuracy put it on the manifold.
Every 2 years the probe gets replaced on my C15 powered PETE. It is the soot that makes them wear.

 

[prado t]

You can unbolt the turbo and run a vacum cleaner hose when you drill out the manifold for the probe.

 

[Cruiser70]

I removed mine, and would suggest you do the same. Yes, it is a pain in the arse to remove it, but it is easier and cheaper to remove it then it is to dig out metal shavings from the cylinders and turbine housing.

You can put grease on the drill bit to try and catch some of the shards if you want to leave the manifold on, or remove the turbo from the manifold?

 

[jake2far]

I am planning on installing a pyro in my BJ74 and had a couple questions for thise that have done it before.
I want to install the probe pre turbo and therefor plan to put it in the manifold by drilling a hole and tapping it. Can this be done with the exhaust manifold on the truck, or does it have to be removed?
Thanks

This subject has been discussed many times, you will find people have opinions about both pre and post turbo. The EGT gauge should be pre turbo to get an accurate reading (why would you want an inaccurate reading?).
This is from Banks about this subject (been posted before).
Banks Power | Why EGT is Important

Banks knows more about proper set up of turbos than most.

Here is a part of the total paper.

A pyrometer is a temperature gauge designed to measure high temperatures above those measurable with an ordinary thermometer. It consists of a temperature-sensing probe (thermocouple) that is placed in the area, or flow, to be measured. The probe is connected to a gauge, which is located a safe distance away from the high temperature source. On a diesel, this means the pyrometer sensing probe is mounted in the exhaust manifold or immediately after the turbine outlet of the turbocharger, and the gauge is mounted in the driver's compartment. The purpose is to measure and display EGT in degrees Fahrenheit (F.). Where the probe is positioned before the turbine section of the turbocharger, the EGT may also be called the turbine inlet temperature. As you would expect, EGT measured after the turbo is called turbine outlet temperature.
We might mention that some mechanics fear installing the pyrometer thermocouple in the exhaust manifold for fear the probe will break or burn off and blow into the turbocharger. Such a piece of foreign material entering the turbine would cause serious damage that could in turn break the compressor wheel of the turbo, sending broken pieces into the intake system of the engine where even more damage could occur. While the above scenario is scary, it is also unlikely. Today's quality pyrometers feature thermocouples that are sheathed in stainless steel to prevent just such an occurrence. It is exceedingly rare to find a diesel mechanic that can honestly say he's ever seen a thermocouple that has failed and fallen into the turbo on a diesel pickup or motorhome. It just doesn't happen with a good pyrometer.
Whether the pyrometer thermocouple is mounted before or after the turbine is usually a matter of finding a suitable mounting location, or of convenience. It should be noted that when the EGT is measured after the turbine, the turbine outlet temperature at full throttle or under a heavy load typically would be 200º to 300º F. lower than the EGT measured in the exhaust manifold. The temperature drop after the turbo indicates the amount of heat energy in the total exhaust gas flow that was used to drive the turbocharger. The temperature drop through the turbine is also related to the total flow and speed of the flow through the turbo. At part throttle, under light load, such as cruise conditions, the turbine outlet EGT may be as much as 500º F. lower than the turbine inlet temperature, but the total exhaust flow is much less than at full throttle. At high turbine speeds (under heavy load) the exhaust gases simply don't have time to give up as much heat energy as they speed through the turbine. This variance is why installation of the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold is considered more accurate. The EGTs discussed in the remainder of this article will all be turbine inlet temperatures.

 

[Hulsty]

I had mine post turbo for ease of install. Just moved it pre turbo as I had the turbo off anyway and it was not much more work to get the manifold off for installation.

 

[bj70_guy]

I had mine post turbo for ease of install. Just moved it pre turbo as I had the turbo off anyway and it was not much more work to get the manifold off for installation.

What temp difference are you noticing now that it's pre-turbo?

 

[Hulsty]

havent started the car yet. Numbers wont be valid anyways, 3'' exhaust and cooler are being added at the same time.

 

[Hulsty]

What would the max pre turbo figure be for a 13BT? Stock tune same as when it was post turbo I have seen 620C lugging up a hill in 4th gear, which is about 100c-150C more than my post turbo for the same situation.

 

[Captain Caveman]

You can put grease on the drill bit to try and catch some of the shards if you want to leave the manifold on, or remove the turbo from the manifold?

Yes, you can do that to try and catch the shards, but I couldn't guarantee that all metal shavings are out of the manifold. If you remove the turbo from the manifold, it is just another 8 - 12 bolts for remove the manifold too.

 

[kbushnz]

I put mine in pre turbo.
Did it in the truck. Used a vacuum cleaner when drilling. Drilled slowly.
And used grease on the tap. Two turn / cuts. Remove tap. Remove grease, add more clean grease.
Keep going till it was at the correct depth.
Gave it a good clean, started truck with no pyro, blows out hole.
Can't see how you can get swarf in the cylinders.
And any in the turbo will get blown out when first started before you get it up on boost.
Had the turbo off several months later for another issue / mod and no signs of metal.
I might have been one of the lucky ones ?

Not a 13B but a 1KZTE.