13B-T EGTs - any definitive answers? (1 Viewer)

[MyCruiserisaHogBeast]

Howdy! It's been a while since I've posted.

I recently got around to installing anpyro and boost gauge so I could shim my waste gate to get a little more boost to compensate for the altitude I moved to. I also removed my muffler which was original and full of ash. Made a huge difference.

It has worked great! Smoke is mostly gone, I got a ton more power, 2mpg and it drives so much easier. BUT- the EGTs freak me out. I didn't get a chance to drive it in stock form with the pyro gauge, but I only upped to boost to 9lbs. I installed my pyro gauge sensor right on the manifold pre- turbo to get the most accurate readings, and man she cooks! Guys who have post turbo sensors see EGTs in the 1200s, and they have a couple hundred degree fudge factor built in. Climbing a grade I can easily get to 1375* F, and that's with only 9 lbs of boost! I can't image the factory EGTs being much lower. I haven't touched the fuel pump. I know these things are known to make some high EGTs and have piston oiling and stuff to compensate, but is this acceptable? In my Cummins rig, anything after 1250* was considered risky. As everyone knows there isn't room for an intercooler without some serious mods, and I'm not looking to push enough boost to need it, at least by conventional wisdom.

Anyone have any thoughts? Is there any actual documentation from Toyota that talks about this? I've searched far and wide for answers, but there doesn't seem to be any definitive answer.

 

[coldtaco]

what vehicle do you have? I'm assuming a JDM BJ-74? Auto or Manual? I would increase your boost to 12-13psi and install an front mount intercooler. If you don't want to remove your AC then get the PDI HZJ front mount intercooler and swap your grill and marker/blinker assemblies with the proper ones to fit the newer plastic grill. PDI also includes a AC relocation kit. I would install a manual boost controller then you don't have to play with shimming the wastegate. I installed my own front mount intercooler by buying all the parts in the BJ-70 I had with a 2.5" wide intercooler, this fit with the old metal grill. You can read through my build and see how I had to install the PDI intercooler. You can probably piece together your own kit with parts available on line with some searching.

 

[Behemoth60]

Wanna see something REALLY scary ...

Put an EGT on a factory spec 3B engine. don't tell me what readings you get. I don't even want to know.
I don't know what voodoo goes on inside a B series combustion chamber, but it defies the conventional laws of physics we all claim to believe.

 

[MyCruiserisaHogBeast]

what vehicle do you have? I'm assuming a JDM BJ-74? Auto or Manual? I would increase your boost to 12-13psi and install an front mount intercooler. If you don't want to remove your AC then get the PDI HZJ front mount intercooler and swap your grill and marker/blinker assemblies with the proper ones to fit the newer plastic grill. PDI also includes a AC relocation kit. I would install a manual boost controller then you don't have to play with shimming the wastegate. I installed my own front mount intercooler by buying all the parts in the BJ-70 I had with a 2.5" wide intercooler, this fit with the old metal grill. You can read through my build and see how I had to install the PDI intercooler. You can probably piece together your own kit with parts available on line with some searching.

I'll check that out! I like my metal grill though

JDM BJ74 Manual. I definitely want to keep my AC. I'm hoping someone can respond with factory EGTs with a similar Pyro set up so I don't feel so bad. I suspect installing the pyro gauge simply created something for me to worry about. I will be checking out your intercooler suggestion though, 12+ PSI would be pretty awesome.

 

[badusmaximus]

I installed one with the stock turbo setup and had the same problem- 1200 is about where I feel comfortable maxing out, could easily see hitting 1400 without much trouble- not that I ever did. This is a pre-turbo probe.

I swapped out to a smaller frame turbo (Garrett gt20) and tuned the fuel to 1200F (max fuel screw almost all the way in, off boost screw backed off a bit). The same hills where I would max out before I'm barely hitting 1200 and feeling quite a bit more pep. 3 months in of daily commuting 7000'-4500' with no problems.

Cheers

 

[MyCruiserisaHogBeast]

I installed one with the stock turbo setup and had the same problem- 1200 is about where I feel comfortable maxing out, could easily see hitting 1400 without much trouble- not that I ever did. This is a pre-turbo probe.

I swapped out to a smaller frame turbo (Garrett gt20) and tuned the fuel to 1200F (max fuel screw almost all the way in, off boost screw backed off a bit). The same hills where I would max out before I'm barely hitting 1200 and feeling quite a bit more pep. 3 months in of daily commuting 7000'-4500' with no problems.

Cheers

Did you have to modify the flanges to fit the Garrett? I think my next trick is to adjust timing and the fuel pump…

From what I gather from what I have read is that we’re all worried about EGTs that Toyota had planned, Toyota just didn’t tell anyone what the actual tolerances actually are and that they’re designed to operate at temperature akin to the surface of the sun. I’m just hoping someone has the definitive answer on what those tolerances actually are.

 

[Hulsty]

Numbers seem fine, at stock boost was probably hotter for years. Mine I back off at 750c pre turbo, occasionally has been hotter, but water temp starts to rise then.

 

[MyCruiserisaHogBeast]

Numbers seem fine, at stock boost was probably hotter for years. Mine I back off at 750c pre turbo, occasionally has been hotter, but water temp starts to rise then.

Yeah that’s 1375F, right along the lines of what I’m seeing. Never seen engine temps rise much in response to EGTs, anytime I end up climbing into the mountains I just let it sit at 3000rpms in 3rd. I’ve noticed that EGTs fall about 25% vs pulling the same grade at the same speed in 4th.