130K Miles maintenance list...whats left?

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Oct 27, 2013
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2007 lx with 130k now, bought it couple years ago and its been pleasure driving it and will like to keep it that way. i am doing some maintenance very soon and would like to know if i am missing something.

prior to purchase:

was maintain regularly at the dealership and Tbelt and water pump was done at 60K.

maintenance/replacement done in the past 2 years:

  • AHC flush with Tbar adjustment (Thanks to PADDO)
  • TCase, front and rear differential fluid change.
  • Both front axle changed (made noise and found out they weren't original)
  • Transmission flush
  • Steering Flush
  • coolant flush
  • added extra fan in front of the AC Radiator to keep the temp cool during summer and cold AC when idle
  • brake flush
  • front and read pads have been replaced (nothing with routers, thinking of machine them with next pads change
  • repack the bearings (20k ago)
  • replaced the fuel pump (shutting off when it got hot)
  • replaced alternator (died)

maintenance coming up:

  • replacing Ts with upper Radiator hose
  • Thermostat
  • Fuel Filter
  • Serpentine belt (preventive)
  • Spark plugs (Denso)

keep in mind that i now live in middle east where temp gets 130F in the summer and don't want to be stranded :)

Did i miss something?

Thanks
 
How many years on Timing Belt. IIRC life is 7 years or 90K miles.
Run a can of 44k in gas tank, inspect Air filter(s) engine & cabin, discount battery for 30 minutes while cleaning Mass Air Flow sensor, Clean & grease battery post, clean T-Body.
Check idler and tensioner pulleys of serpentine for quiet operation.
Check PCV valve, hose & grommet.
Check all vacuum lines.
Test radiator & gas cap.
Did you grease axle bushing & bearing with wheel bearing job?
 
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How many years on Timing Belt. IIRC life is 7 years or 90K miles.
Run a can of 44k in gas tank, inspect Air filter(s) engine & cabin, discount battery for 30 minutes while cleaning Mass Air Flow sensor, Clean & grease battery post, clean T-Body.
Check idler and tensioner pulleys of serpentine for quiet operation.
Check PCV valve, hose & grommet.
Check all vacuum lines.
Test radiator & gas cap.
Did you grease axle bushing & bearing with wheel bearing job?

Well Tbelt will replace it at 180k.
Air filter got the K&N always keep it clean.
Throttle was clean couple years ago, in fact it was not dirty.
For idler and pulleys, I won't be doing the job since I am not comfortable doing it. Will let the mechanic check them for me.

How do I test the radiator and gas cab???

Didn't do the repacking so I am assuming it's been done.

Thank you.
 
Your belt was done at 60K miles. So should be done 150K miles or 7 years which every comes first. You have the VVTi engine so this should not be overlooked.

Mechanic and many parts stores have pressure tester for caps.

Don't assume axle bushing & bearing was grease. Many mechanic forget this one if they don't have the special tool. They also don't bother to check snap ring gap. These are very important items.
 
Your belt was done at 60K miles. So should be done 150K miles or 7 years which every comes first. You have the VVTi engine so this should not be overlooked.

Mechanic and many parts stores have pressure tester for caps.

Don't assume axle bushing & bearing was grease. Many mechanic forget this one if they don't have the special tool. They also don't bother to check snap ring gap. These are very important items.

well consider doing the repack again and check axle bushing and bearings

Thank you 2001LC
 
K&N air filters use oil which can gum up a MAF Sensor. I don't use one in my LX but I did in another vehicle I owned and had that problem, just something to be aware of and consider.
 
K&N air filters use oil which can gum up a MAF Sensor. I don't use one in my LX but I did in another vehicle I owned and had that problem, just something to be aware of and consider.

What would you recommend for K&N? Blowair? not saturate the filter with oil?
 
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What would you recommend for K&N? Blowair? not saturate the filter with oil?
Just oil as directed, lightly.

Stock air filter.
I switch back to stock from K&N after reading some very concerning independent data on various filters. K&N was the worst at allowing small particles through. I'd post link but can't find, sorry. I keep my K&N for a spare to be used in low dust conditions only.
 
Well Tbelt will replace it at 180k.
Air filter got the K&N always keep it clean.
Throttle was clean couple years ago, in fact it was not dirty.
For idler and pulleys, I won't be doing the job since I am not comfortable doing it. Will let the mechanic check them for me.

How do I test the radiator and gas cab???

Didn't do the repacking so I am assuming it's been done.

Thank you.

Just buy a new Toyota Gas cap and radiator and reservoir tank caps. Also get under your rig and check for any rust, treat rust with some rust preventative and then paint with rustoliem. Do this once a year.
 
What would you recommend for K&N? Blowair? not saturate the filter with oil?
Out of the box they can be heavily oiled. Padding them down to absorb excess oil works also when you recondition the filter make sure to only lightly coat the filter or repeat the padding down process to absorb excess. I would still suggest checking / cleaning the MAF sensor as any oil that gets on the sensor will collect dust and debris.

What some of the others have said about the K&N filter not being a great filter lies in its design. It's suppose to be a high performance filter designed to let air into the motor. That design does not make the best filter since larger freer flowing filters do not filter out very small / minute particles which get breathed into the motor.
 
well consider doing the repack again and check axle bushing and bearings

Thank you 2001LC
If bearings were done right, your good for 10K miles more. Just make sure they did your axles bushings & bearings at that time. This is what I'm taking about Slee - Spindle Grease Tool if they don't have this tool 80% chance they didn't.

The snap ring is off in the first Slee picture, it is best check gap just before removing. Many mud thread here on snap ring, flange and axle damage. IMHO this is caused be not doing above at each bearing repack.

BTW we all just repack bearing, but my 2001 FSM states they are not reusable if races removed.

Out of the box they can be heavily oiled. Padding them down to absorb excess oil works also when you recondition the filter make sure to only lightly coat the filter or repeat the padding down process to absorb excess. I would still suggest checking / cleaning the MAF sensor as any oil that gets on the sensor will collect dust and debris.

What some of the others have said about the K&N filter not being a great filter lies in its design. It's suppose to be a high performance filter designed to let air into the motor. That design does not make the best filter since larger freer flowing filters do not filter out very small / minute particles which get breathed into the motor.
Don't know how one could possible pat-down between the pleats.
Reading the direction for cleaning & oiling it is very clear never use high pressure water or air to clean or over oil. High pressure will open holes in filter, this is true of any filter. Shop mechanics have warned me not to over oil filter as they see this damaged MAS. Seem you could just clean MAS, but I've not been willing to test that out.
 
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Just throwing my 2 cents in, but I dont recommend running an oiled filter ever. After going through several vehicles and being on multiple forum sites, they gunk up your engine pretty bad. Just run a good paper or dry composite filter.
 
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