I would like to add qty 2 12V outlets in the cargo area of my 97 FZJ80. What size (gage) electrical wires would I need to get and how much of it? Any recomendations or links from someone who has done this mod would be helpful.....
12V outlet mod questions
- Thread starter latinoguy
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Hey Latinoguy, I just put in a 12v, along with 120v outlets. The 12v, I bought at Wal-mart made by Casco, It had all the wiring and set-up was pretty simple, couple hours. I haven't figured out to post pict or I'd post it. Good Luck
There are quite a few (dozens) threads over in the 80 Section and several here in the Outfitting section.
The wire size depends on the fuse rating that you use and the current load (amps) you intend to carry through these 12v outlets.
For example, if your intended use is for an Engle, you can get by with a 15amp fuse and, assuming you are running the wires from the stock battery location to the cargo area, you can get by with 10ga wire (12 ga if your total wire length is <15') You should consult a wiring chart like the one you will find on the westmarine.com web site.
If your intended use is for a high capacity air compressor then you may need a 30 amp circuit (or more) and your wiring size and fuses must match this increased current requirement.
-B-
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Here is a pict of my set-up. Wire is 12 gauge, and the fuse is 30 amp., my only regret is I placed it slightly forward of where I would like it, 1 foot forward of the corner. I did'nt want it to short out and blow up the tank, being that the filler neck is right behaind the panel,.. (unlikely, but I'm a rookie). If I did it again, I would put it closer to the rear hatch.
Guy,
What is your total wire length?
12ga is not sufficient to carry a constant 30 amps unless it is a fairly short length. If your load will never approach 30 amps then put in a 15a fuse and you will be fine. If your load on that circuit could be 30 amps then you should reconsider that wire size (assuming your length is ~15')
What happens is the wire will get hot when it has more current than it is designed to carry then it will melt the insulation. The bare copper wires will melt through the insulation and touch metal or cloth or carpet or leather or plastic or something you don't want to catch fire, then it lets the smoke out and you've got problems regardless of where the wire is located in relation to the fuel tank.
And... there may be guys that post up and say they are running 30 amps with 20' of 12ga (or 14ga or 16ga) and have never had a problem. That's fine. They are lucky. If you would rather feel safe than lucky then match your wire size with the current and wire length. That is what Mr T does when he builds your truck.
-B-
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Beowolf thanks for the advice, I will re-evalute the 30 to 15 amp fuse.
Nice set-up Firetruck 41, very custom. I wish I had seen it before my set-up. I my have to re-wire when I replace the carpet.
My 120v was done according to specs by blue marine, and Donrowe.com
Thanks for the killer advice.
Nice set-up Firetruck 41, very custom. I wish I had seen it before my set-up. I my have to re-wire when I replace the carpet.
My 120v was done according to specs by blue marine, and Donrowe.com
Thanks for the killer advice.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I use 10 ga wire as my default for nearly everything in a Land Cruiser. It will carry 30 amps and carries plenty of juice for two 12v plugs assuming normal use like a small light or a fridge. Both of my wagons have a plug in the back for my fridge, so the 10 ga is overkill, but I can add a second outlet at some point. In my mind, the most important thing to remember is to fuse any new wire as close to the battery as you can. An unfused wire through the firewall is an invitation to disaster. At the bottom is a pic of a fuse panel right at the battery. It's fed with a very short 8 ga jumper and then all the rest of the power to all the accessories is fed from there. That way, there are no unfused wires anywhere.
The one exception was my Ham radio which I wired with 8 ga so I could be sure there were no voltage drops on high power transmit. 8ga would also be sufficient to feed most sub panel use, but something like and aircompressor should be connected directly to the battery with the wires that came with it.
The one exception was my Ham radio which I wired with 8 ga so I could be sure there were no voltage drops on high power transmit. 8ga would also be sufficient to feed most sub panel use, but something like and aircompressor should be connected directly to the battery with the wires that came with it.
Ben and Drew, you both used the same fuse panel. That seems like the hot ticket, where did you pick it up? Thanks
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Napa Auto Parts. I think it was $14 or so. I have since seen a nicer one with a cover but I don'e remember where.
That fuse block is only rated at 30 amps total, or at least that's what I was told. You might consider getting a heavier duty block.
30 amp total is the spec on the NAPA web site.
http://www.napaonline.com//MasterPa...=BK&PartNumber=7825316&Description=Fuse+Block
-B-
http://www.napaonline.com//MasterPa...=BK&PartNumber=7825316&Description=Fuse+Block
-B-
Yup
and yup.
I would look for a nicer one with higher amperage next time, you can probably find them at a marine store or online.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Don't worry, I will, but for now it's fine, since I don't draw much power through it. The radio comes directly off the battery and so does not rely on this fuse block.
I've also used some generic fuse blocks from the local auto parts. I am in the process of converting them to a splash-proof Hella fuse block that snaps together with a splash-proof Hella relay blocks from Susquehanna MotorSports.
Hella also has regular splash-proof fuse blocks for under $15 and a weather-proof fuse block for more weather protection.
Hella also has regular splash-proof fuse blocks for under $15 and a weather-proof fuse block for more weather protection.
I've also used some generic fuse blocks from the local auto parts. I am in the process of converting them to a splash-proof Hella fuse block that snaps together with a splash-proof Hella relay blocks from Susquehanna MotorSports.
Hella also has regular splash-proof fuse blocks for under $15 and a weather-proof fuse block for more weather protection.
I also bought one of the Hella relay holders from Susquehanna to put my slee harness relays in but, can't for the life of me, figure out how to install the relays in the block. Any tips? What am I missing?
Cheers, Hugh
Did you get the right relay? How about some pictures?