12" travel shock options?

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I am not saying it gives you more room for compression but it alllows you to achieve more of the up travel of the longer bodied shock

How do you figure you actually gain up travel? At best it's an even trade, down travel for up travel. It doesn't let you fit a long body shock any better.

To give an example, say you run a 10" travel shock that's perfectly setup for your up/down range (you use every inch of it) and balanced 50/50, you have 5" up and 5" down travel.

You decide to put on a 12" travel shock that is the wrong range, say it's 1" too long. You now have 4" up travel and 8" down travel, assuming everything else stays the same.

You lost an inch of up travel because the body is an inch longer.

In this example, you could give yourself 50/50 travel again by raising your lift by 2". You'd also need to drop your bump stops down to prevent the shock from over compressing. But any way you figure it, you're actually losing up travel because you will have room the tire could go up, but can't because the shock body is in the way.

The end result is effectively an 80 on stilts, you've really just spaced everything down further. It's actually can be worse, because you've now raised your center of gravity by quite a bit, and gained nothing doing so. By properly setting up your shocks you could see the same gain (longer shocks) with no down side (avoid raising the CoG).

Too often people just drop bump stops and increase lift to compensate for longer shocks (or bigger tires), instead of taking the time to properly set it up.


Good luck using zip ties for retainers never once have they worked for me

They've lasted quite a while for me, but I used big beefy ones (not little ones as pictured). You could always use metal ones if the plastic ones don't work for you, or I've heard of hose clamps being used.
 
That just means your tires are too small :)

Naw. Bigger tires just means you need a bigger body lift, or you need to change your back spacing. ;p

I was actually surprised at how much more room I gained with a different back spacing. I figured with 3.5" BS I'd lose up travel because I'd rub on the flares.
 
I am at 3.5 inches of back spacing and you are right I gained more room to go up in the well even with a 13 inch wide tire without getting into the outer fender or quarter
 
Sorry we got side tracked on this thread
Back to the OP

Getting a short body 12 inch travel shock you will be limited in your choices Like Ebag said most of the 12 inch travel shocks have longer than desired bodies
Unless you modify the upper mount you will lose some up travel and also probably bottom out the shock when compresed if you dont lower your bumpstops quite a bit
It all depends on the shock
 
You guys need to quit worrying about the shock travel number and flex your truck with whatever spring you are using. Find your max compression and extended length with the shocks off and find the appropriate length shock to fit your spring travel numbers. Your springs will only extend so far until they fall out of the buckets, so you will want your final extension number to be slightly lower than what the spring will allow for.
 
This is what I did on my broncos. not sure if this mod has made it to MUD yet or not....
The F-250 shock tower is one of those great modifications that's both cheap and simple. By replacing your stock shock towers with these taller, heavier units, you'll be able to use longer travel shocks for more articulation. Pricing is around $25-35 for the pair. That's less than one new shock!

Here are the new towers. Ford part # E5TZ 18183 A for a pre-1994 F-250. They're available directly through Ford or several of the Bronco parts houses including BC Broncos and Wild Horses. The photo on the right gives you an idea of the extra shock length the new towers will allow. Another benefit is that the new towers use the more common "eye" shock mounting style.​
 
Thanks for the info guys! BTW, I plan to install a 2" body lift. I already bought it in fact...
After reading this info, I'm thinking 12" 's front and rear.
How much do i need to raise the front shock mounts?

Oh and I'm a backyard fabricator. Only tool i don't have yet is Plasma...:frown:

I love melting Metal.........:hillbilly:
 
I found this at poly Performance. 5125 Bilsteins. Not sure which valving wopuld be best?




33-185569 11.94" 5125 Off-Road 255/70 N/A 29.70 17.91 14mm eye/eye

BE5-6249-T5 11.94" 5125 Off-Road 298/36 N/A 29.70 17.91 14mm eye/eye
 
You guys need to quit worrying about the shock travel number and flex your truck with whatever spring you are using. Find your max compression and extended length with the shocks off and find the appropriate length shock to fit your spring travel numbers. Your springs will only extend so far until they fall out of the buckets, so you will want your final extension number to be slightly lower than what the spring will allow for.

Huh. Funny. That's pretty much exactly what the Pro Comp thread covers. :hhmm:


This is what I did on my broncos. not sure if this mod has made it to MUD yet or not....
The F-250 shock tower is one of those great modifications that's both cheap and simple. By replacing your stock shock towers with these taller, heavier units, you'll be able to use longer travel shocks for more articulation. Pricing is around $25-35 for the pair. That's less than one new shock!

Yup. You can use those for the front pretty easily, not for the rear however (at least not without a decent amount of work).

The rear has a subframe that the shock mounts to (two pieces of quarter inch thick metal stacked on top of each other!!!). It'd require a lot of cutting to make it work.

Thanks for the info guys! BTW, I plan to install a 2" body lift. I already bought it in fact...
After reading this info, I'm thinking 12" 's front and rear.
How much do i need to raise the front shock mounts?

Oh and I'm a backyard fabricator. Only tool i don't have yet is Plasma...:frown:

I love melting Metal.........:hillbilly:

2" body lift no reason not to go 14" front and rear if you so desire. You'll have tons of room to raise both the front and rear body mounts.

In the Pro Comp thread I detailed how high I raised my front (and rear) mounts to make them fit.
 
Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY*::*Shocks & Accessories*::*Shocks*::*ICON Vehicle Dynamics*::*ICON VS 2.0" Mono-Tube Shock - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises

Anybody know about the Icons?



Description:

Polyurethane Bushings for OE Fitment (Both Stem and Eyelet Configurations)
Nitrogen Charged Mono-Tube Design available with with Internal and External Reservoirs
Constructed of 6063-T831 Hard Anodized Honed Aluminum Tubing
Premium Grade Oil for Performance in Extreme Temperatures
One Piece – Linear/Digressive Piston Design for unsurpassed Performance and Ride Quality
5/8" Nitrosteel Shaft for Corrosion and Pitting resistance
6061 Aluminum Rod Ends for Strength and Durability
100% Rebuildable (90 Day Warrant
 
Nope. More lift just changes your up/down travel range. It doesn't magically give you more room for compression.

Two ways to increase room for compression, adjust shock mounts or lower bump stops. That's it.




One of these works just fine.

zipties.jpg

Was thinking in something more permanent but not complicated .. like this

1010_4wd_14+2008_jeep_wrangler_JK_rubicon+currie_rear_coil_retainers.jpg


CoilRetainer.jpg
 
I just got off the phone with ICON. They claim to have a couple different options coming available soon..........I would really like to get a shock specifically with the weight of the 80 in mind..
 
I just got off the phone with ICON. They claim to have a couple different options coming available soon..........I would really like to get a shock specifically with the weight of the 80 in mind..

Icon is slated to start development work in 2012 for the 80 series shock and will have the vs series 2.0 aluminum bodies (~$145.50 retail each) and the hand made 2.5" desert race shock most likely in a piggyback or remote reservoir variant that run between $398 - $424 each. We have been a wholesale distributor of Icon for the last 3 years and we run Icon coilovers and shocks on our FJ Cruiser and they have worked extremely well.

There is also Radflo that have a complete bolt in 80 series shocks in the 2.0" and 2.5" variant and we have been running the 2.5" shocks on our 93 FZJ80 for the last 6 months with zero complaints. The ride quality is light years ahead of any off the shelf monotube shock, it reduces brake dive, body roll, your axle begins to float over wash board roads, and coming off ledges you no longer have the rear end sagging out and bouncing back up, it simply absorbs all the shock and stays stationary. We ran the OME L series shocks with a J lift for the last 6 years without sway bars and we had to be mindful about highway driving due to body roll. After installing the Radflo's our 80 series now acts like it has sway bars even though we still don't have any, and this is due to the fact that these shocks are custom valved for the 80 series.

Radflo FJ80 Shocks

Also with shocks like Radflo, Icon, Sway Away, King etc that separate from a standard shocks like Rancho, Bilstein, Doetsch etc is that these shocks have either a progressive or digressive valving. On a progressive valved shocks the initial up travel starts off soft and as the piston moves up the ride becomes firm to help compensate for big hits off road. On a digressive valved shock the initial up travel is firm and slowly becomes softer. This may seem like it does not mean much but when one is traveling down a wash board road or rough terrain at high speeds this is where these shocks shine over a standard shock. Not to mention being properly valved for the weight of an 80 series the overall ride will be greatly improved and shock fade will not be a problem.
 
Hi,

I agree with what was said about the Radflo and ICON (I don't personally know the ICON shocks). I have a lot of experience with shocks of this kind and I must recommend FOX shocks. I have on my 80 2" shocks, they are more than enough, are highly reliable. I like fast offroad driving and the shocks perform wonderfully. I don't think there is any need for a 2.5" shock - certainly not for extreme offroad, but perhaps for someone competing in a rally ride.

And now I want to consult with you guys about something:

My 80 has 2" toughdogs and 1" spacers. My shocks are FOX 2" 10" travel with remote reservoir. I have disconnected the sway bar. The car works perfectly but I want to lift the car to 4" (I want a 4" coil without spacers). I can't decide between leaving the 10" travel to changing it to 12". Currently money is not a factor in this decision.
Does anyone here have a 4" lift with 12" shocks? Can anyone recommend or dis-recommend it?

Thanks,

Erez
 
Research a company called ADS Machine. I am running a pair of their resi shocks on the front of my LX450 and I love them. Eventually I will get them for the rear. They can build them to fit without any mount modifications. Just another option..
 
Hi,
Does anyone here have a 4" lift with 12" shocks? Can anyone recommend or dis-recommend it?

I've got a 4" lift with 12" shocks. The lift is marketed as a heavy duty 3" lift, but I'm not running a steel bar or winch ATM, so it sits as a 4".

Front shock mounts are un-modded, so I run with a 2" bumpstop extension on the chassis and in the coil. In the rear the shock is eye to eye with an inverted adapter added to the top mount which probably gains me a 1.5" extra in length. Again I have 2" bump stops in the rear on chassis and in coils

Springs are progressively wound so are captive at full extention. Rear springs might even cope with a 14" but I don't want to lose any more uptravel. The system is designed for long distance touring over corrugated dirt roads for 1000s of miles at 60mph, but with plenty of scope for playing, so it runs 5" up and 7" down.
Works well. Even fully loaded at speed over rough roads I don't hit the bump stops and its a very smooth ride, but never wallowy.

Got the springs and shocks from Darren at AutoCraft in Oz.
Cant remember the shock name of the top of my head, but they are made in Canada.
 
I run skyjacker shocks for a lifted ford super duty with no sway bars, j springs with metal tech front spacers, and 37s. Shocks still have about 1 1/2 inches of shaft showing with the tires fully tucked and ride really nice.
Here are the summit part numbers:
SJA-N8014 Front shock 15.06-27.01 12in travel direct bolt on
SJA-N8059 Rear shock 16.56-28.75 12in travel direct bolt on w/ use of these lower bushings
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EXP-68070 Rear lower Bushing

190 bucks for 4 shocks and pair of bushings shipped, hard to get much better than that

This is the only pic I could find on this computer, there is more travel in there too, all 4 tires are touching.

 
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