11/71 new voltage regulator wiring question

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One wire is hot, it would be the ignition wire that wasn't on the regulator. The other two go to the alternator, Field and Earth/ground. I'm just interpreting the diagram posted by Matt.

These wires would be easy to cover with shrink wrap and electrical tape, zip tie it out of the way. Nothing permanent.
 
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Ok, so if its ok to remove... what do I do with the dangling wires then? Aren't they still hot and connected to the fuse block?
Can’t say i have ever seen a 2 wire green plug alternator wired directly to the battery ?

The bottom green plug connector is your IG port

Hence Ignition …

Where does the B+ ring terminal go ?
No it doesn't go directly to the battery, i am starting to remember things I forgot 😅 I had to extend one wire from the old regulator to the new alternator. This alternator uses a two prong plastic clip but I didn't have from the donor truck. So I just used a female lead on one. I guess the other one is for a ground? I will get some more pics.
 
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One wire is hot, it would be the ignition wire that wasn't on the regulator. The other two go to the alternator, Field and Earth/ground. I'm just interpreting the diagram posted by Matt.

These wires would be easy to cover with shrink wrap and electrical tape, zip tie it out of the way. Nothing permanent.
Could I reuse one of these for keyed hot switch or something?
 

ToyotaMatt

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No it doesn't go directly to the battery, i am starting to remember things I forgot 😅 I had to extend one wire from the old regulator to the new alternator. This alternator uses a two prong plastic clip but I didn't have from the donor truck. So I just used a female lead on one. I guess the other one is for a ground? I will get some more pics.


do u know what happens if you plug that one single blue wire going into the 2 wire green plug is called a IG terminal ?



it's a good thing im here to keep you all on-track and stuff .....

ASHES of PVC wire are a smelly topic to contend with .







1669592929546.png

1669592970609.png
 
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I like those brass terminals, above. They crimp for conductivity and they crimp for strength on the insulation. So, Matt, he could just install one wire and leave the other slot open? Or is there something about the alternator that needs update in the harness side of things?

I'd just run the correct F alternator if possible, old school regulator. I understand that the harness isn't laid out like that - passenger/driver sides.
 
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I like those brass terminals, above. They crimp for conductivity and they crimp for strength on the insulation. So, Matt, he could just install one wire and leave the other slot open? Or is there something about the alternator that needs update in the harness side of things?

I'd just run the correct F alternator if possible, old school regulator. I understand that the harness isn't laid out like that - passenger/driver sides.the

I like those brass terminals, above. They crimp for conductivity and they crimp for strength on the insulation. So, Matt, he could just install one wire and leave the other slot open? Or is there something about the alternator that needs update in the harness side of things?

I'd just run the correct F alternator if possible, old school regulator. I understand that the harness isn't laid out like that - passenger/driver sides.
The motor is a 2f from an 87 60s. Id rather just keep all the 2f stuff
 
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Then the easy way of correcting the alternator plug would be to place a blade terminal over the unused blade on the alternator, with no wire, and just insulation. Do the charge wire with brass, double crimp as pictured above, and it is like OEM.

I like the battery cable lugs on the engine head, but, why two? Is there a grounding strap from the starter to the framerail?
 
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I like those brass terminals, above. They crimp for conductivity and they crimp for strength on the insulation. So, Matt, he could just install one wire and leave the other slot open? Or is there something about the alternator that needs update in the harness side of things?

I'd just run the correct F alternator if possible, old school regulator. I understand that the harness isn't laid out like that - passenger/driver sides.the

do u know what happens if you plug that one single blue wire going into the 2 wire green plug is called a IG terminal ?



it's a good thing im here to keep you all on-track and stuff .....

ASHES of PVC wire are a smelly topic to contend with .







View attachment 3179523
View attachment 3179527
I recently got back from Japan, and I made sure to grab the tool that crimps those original style connectors. Even grabbed some bullet style connectors. Thanks for the link!
 
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Then the easy way of correcting the alternator plug would be to place a blade terminal over the unused blade on the alternator, with no wire, and just insulation. Do the charge wire with brass, double crimp as pictured above, and it is like OEM.

I like the battery cable lugs on the engine head, but, why two? Is there a grounding strap from the starter to the framerail?
Thats how I grounded initially on the first motor... almost 20 years ago now... Idk why thats just how I did it, I had those cables lying around and just haven't changed it since
 

ToyotaMatt

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I recently got back from Japan, and I made sure to grab the tool that crimps those original style connectors. Even grabbed some bullet style connectors. Thanks for the link!


photos or your new JAPAN Spec. Crimping tool does NOT exist ........ 🤔



i was not aware you could purchase a pair of Double open barrel ergonomic long handle ratcheting crimps in japn ?
 
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photos or your new JAPAN Spec. Crimping tool does NOT exist ........ 🤔



i was not aware you could purchase a pair of Double open barrel ergonomic long handle ratcheting crimps in japn ?
They don't ratchet, and you have to do one at a time iirc. But the tools is made for that crimp style. They were shipped with the rest of my other stuff and still waiting.
 

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