11/71 new voltage regulator wiring question

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Hello, its been a long time since I've last posted. I tried searching but couldnt find this. I got a new voltage regulator but I notice my old one doesn't have one of the prongs connected to anything. Im assuming its the ground to the alternator? Should there be something connected? Should I add a ground to somewhere?

20221126_085446.jpg
 

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Hello, its been a long time since I've last posted. I tried searching but couldnt find this. I got a new voltage regulator but I notice my old one doesn't have one of the prongs connected to anything. Im assuming its the ground to the alternator? Should there be something connected? Should I add a ground to somewhere?

View attachment 3178831


This is Absolutely important you get this right the first time !

You cross 1 of these wires means you have crossed 2

You can melt down your wire harness …


Did you purchase a OEM. Toyota Genuine NipponDenso Japan Spec. parts new voltage Regulator ?

Or

A China 🇨🇳 Rock Auto replacement ?

- I ask this because the screw tabs on a OEM one are stamped …


Not sure about a aftermarket one ?
 

ToyotaMatt

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I bought an OEM from SOR.
The picture is from my vehicle right now. I've been driving it this way.
I ask because I was looking at a wiring diagram and shows a dotted line to the alternator, im assuming its a ground. I also followed one of the wires back a little and noticed it has a splice to two wires... I'm just wondering why all 3 prongs aren't connected? And should there be?

(The new regulator has a red sticker instead of green but looks identical. Also yes the prongs are stamped)
 
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ToyotaMatt

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Well …

All 3 wires on your truck should be color coded tracer striped

- the GROUND is a white w/ black tracer stripe

- the F Tab is your Field terminal

- the IG tab is your ignition terminal


- curious ? I know you said you have been driving it this way ?

But why have you purchased a new one for SOR ?
 
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Well …

All 3 wires on your truck should be color coded tracer striped

- the GROUND is a white w/ black tracer stripe

- the F Tab is your Field terminal

- the IG tab is your ignition terminal


- curious ? I know you said you have been driving it this way ?

But why have you purchased a new one for SOR ?
I'm having weird electrical issues. The car has been sitting for a few years so I'm just trying to get everything solid since its my DD now. The PO had some wacky electrical fixes. Plus I never changed the voltage regulator when I got a new alternator before I stopped driving.
I'm just trying to fix shotty wiring from PO and make sure everything is reliable. And seeing that one prong isn't connected and one prong has a splice in the wire before it reaches into the cab had me wondering if this is how its suppose to be?
Appreciate the time and help thanks
 

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I'm having weird electrical issues. The car has been sitting for a few years so I'm just trying to get everything solid since its my DD now. The PO had some wacky electrical fixes. Plus I never changed the voltage regulator when I got a new alternator before I stopped driving.
I'm just trying to fix shotty wiring from PO and make sure everything is reliable. And seeing that one prong isn't connected and one prong has a splice in the wire before it reaches into the cab had me wondering if this is how its suppose to be?
Appreciate the time and help thanks


OK , GOOD !

your in the correct skool of thought here for sure , don’t waver from the making it all OEM correct mindset approach , you can’t go wrong here especially if a DD now …

I added the red ink to keep the focus points in check here :

- the missing wire is your IG / it should be a white wire w/ red tracer stripe

- the F Tab goes to the F terminal in the back input plug of your FEN connector on the back of your alternator…

The single tab stamped E is earth or ground

White wire w/ black tracer

As I see it as you describe your odd electrical issues have 💯 % to do with this absent IG wire ?

The scary part is that is the KEY ON signal B+ voltage ?

You should check your fuse box , in-fact if your glass tube fuses look old simply go to a marine store like west marine and just replace ALL of them period !

This will eliminate any possible chance of a good looking broken inside filiment ,,,,

I say marine because there stainless steel end caps and will NOT corrode like the China 🇨🇳 crap ones at auto zone will or be bad out of the Cracker Jack .25 cents packs they sell

Look for BLUE SEA choice systems brand best bang for your $19 bucks to fill up your fuse box the best possible way other then old color keyed ones from japan

Below are tech pics to help you along and set you up for sucses

Remember !

Do 1 wire at a time this way you won’t melt down your wire harness to ashes …



F1BB8C3C-4FFF-4B68-A61E-1256A5FD56C3.jpeg
4B2C5445-C29D-4C71-9E91-222FF8CFE95D.jpeg
896418EA-9083-4DF9-9C75-F0E824C48BE0.jpeg
69475A99-FC8E-4AE4-87D8-5A7149E7C279.jpeg
D6D389F4-D2FB-4E48-B162-F2AAF355F08F.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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Below is a 1971 OEM wire diagram also , EWD

i focused on the charging system ONLY as that's the area of focus points right now ..........fyi


2AB21C38-38E2-4C54-8166-B2C398B46CB9.jpeg
 
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Ok so a few things, my electrical guide shows a little different, I will post what mine shows.
Here are 2 pics from 2 different manuals but If I recall the Haynes had an electrical page for late 71 but I dont see it in my book (it fell apart and missing some pages but this shows for pre 72)
Here are wire pics of regulator area and wires and alternator
 
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ToyotaMatt

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Ok so a few things, my electrical guide shows a little different, I will post what mine shows.
Also the alternator is for sure aftermarket I will post some photos. I dont think there is an additional regulator? I will check the alternator (that would be embarrassing 😬 lol) I will post an update when I can get pics. Thanks!


Well your in luck 🍀

I specialize in only NOS OEM Genuine NipponDenso factory NEW alternators

So if you need one , problem solved ..

I have a wide range of AMP options too

6CB6CD53-F63E-4FF4-9BFD-64970F152FE8.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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upgraded to internally-regulated alternator?


how do you know ?

i guess that's a logical possible ROCK AUTO poor choice PO Scenario 🤔
 
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I don't know. However, it would be reasonable, as the truck runs as suggested in post #4.

Can't an internally-regulated unit be wired to work in this situation?
 

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