100 series solid axle swap
- Thread starter Dave 2000
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The friend is me and I will also try to chime in here as a fairly unexperienced enthusiast.
I have the '04 HDJ100 5 speed model. Think that is the 2005 model in the states. The 100 had the rear locker as an option but mine doesn't. I thought about ARB airlockers but I prefer to mount the oem RR diff lockers.
1 Is that possible to do a straight swap with my current diff.
2 What about the electronics part... are there already some prefabbed wires in place?
3 What would the price be of a comple diff set?
4 Is an oem diff lock easy to come by?
Any thoughts will be appreciated.
Grtz
Paul
I have the '04 HDJ100 5 speed model. Think that is the 2005 model in the states. The 100 had the rear locker as an option but mine doesn't. I thought about ARB airlockers but I prefer to mount the oem RR diff lockers.
1 Is that possible to do a straight swap with my current diff.
2 What about the electronics part... are there already some prefabbed wires in place?
3 What would the price be of a comple diff set?
4 Is an oem diff lock easy to come by?
Any thoughts will be appreciated.
Grtz
Paul
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Your IFS complete frame is wrong for a solid axle swap. The diff in your truck is also unique to the IFS system. To do a solid axle swap you will need to cut all of the IFS stuff off and fabricate new mounts for the solid axle. You will need to build/buy a correct width axle with the diff installed. You could use the 80 series axle and diff, but a large amount of modifications would need to be done to it including a 5 lug conversion. OR a 6 lug conversion on the rear with all new wheels. If it were me I would source a 105 front axle and then modify it to fit your 100 series.
This is a huge job. Slee Off Road is doing one now and the progress with pics can be seen/read about in this forum.
This is a huge job. Slee Off Road is doing one now and the progress with pics can be seen/read about in this forum.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I'm not sure about the rear on a diesel, I would guess they would be the same as the Gas version.
For the front I think you best option might be the ARB, according to the collective wisdom of Mud this is the accepted fix for the 100 Series "Exploding front diff" problem.
The plug for the diff switch should be right behind the dash blanking plate. If you are going with a front ARB you can control it from the same switch if you use one from a 97 LC (F&R lockers were availble on that year.)
hoser
SILVER Star
Here's a good write-up on installing OEM lockers into an 80 series.
Baja Overland
IIRC, a new 100 series rear locker diff carrier is about $1500 for us. Check toyodiy.com and then your local dealer for details.
Baja Overland
IIRC, a new 100 series rear locker diff carrier is about $1500 for us. Check toyodiy.com and then your local dealer for details.
Thnx for all the info guys..helps me out a lot.
$ 1.500 new is a good amount of money. I was thinking about a low mileage one from a salvage yard or a refurbished one.
Swapping my normal diff with a locker one isn't possible right...since I read on the 80 job you need to make a small cutout to be able to fit the diff with locker.
Selling my current diff that would make it a bit less costly...
$ 1.500 new is a good amount of money. I was thinking about a low mileage one from a salvage yard or a refurbished one.
Swapping my normal diff with a locker one isn't possible right...since I read on the 80 job you need to make a small cutout to be able to fit the diff with locker.
Selling my current diff that would make it a bit less costly...
Hi Dutchy,
why would you want that? Swap to a solid front axle. Buy a tractor instead.
Come with me to do some offroading and you will get convinced that the IFS is perfect. A rear difflock is what you need. And BIG tires, something like 35 or 37" and you will get through anything.
Regards,
DJ
why would you want that? Swap to a solid front axle. Buy a tractor instead.
Come with me to do some offroading and you will get convinced that the IFS is perfect. A rear difflock is what you need. And BIG tires, something like 35 or 37" and you will get through anything.
Regards,
DJ
I wonder if this would work? I'm not really sure but it states on the site "V6/v8 motors and or heavy winch bumpers we recommend using our 5"HD front SAS kits". Seems to good to be true!
IFS Eliminator Kit - Suspension
IFS Eliminator Kit - Suspension
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
That is not going to get you very far. That is for Tacoma's / 4Runners.
Well I have narrowed it down to just do the rear lockers. Questions that remains is... ARB lockers or OEM lockers. Oem will probably be slightly more expensive but my machanic states that oem is better (stronger?) less and less sensitive too problems than ARB.
@Dutchdakar... consider that a date..
Would love to see what your LC is capable of.
@Dutchdakar... consider that a date..
Would love to see what your LC is capable of.
I prefer my front ARB to the rear OEM e-locker. The main advantage, at least per the ARB air locker on my front, is significantly faster and consistent engage/lock-up and disengage.
I doubt the OEM is stronger, as ARB are constantly touting how they overengineer their lockers to be the strongest part of an axle. OEM would be more discrete, as you wouldn't have to have the compressor on button, but I'd go for an ARB. As for sensitivity to problems, I'm not completely sure what problems your mechanic was speaking of, but I'm almost certain the ARB is stronger.
the guys that have both, use the front more here in the 100 series world.
That's because it doesn't take much of an obstacle for the IFS on our trucks to force one tire off the ground, instantly exposing the lack of traction caused by an open diff.
Marc,
I believe that to be true when climbing rutted/big rock slopes. However even on steep slope climbs that are just covered with small loose rocks where the front is not articulating anywhere near its limits an 80 will walk right up unlocked whereas I typically will get to a point that I need to be locked in front.
I suspect an 80 has a heavier weight bias up front than our 100's...just a guess based on my field observations
I believe that to be true when climbing rutted/big rock slopes. However even on steep slope climbs that are just covered with small loose rocks where the front is not articulating anywhere near its limits an 80 will walk right up unlocked whereas I typically will get to a point that I need to be locked in front.
I suspect an 80 has a heavier weight bias up front than our 100's...just a guess based on my field observations
