100-series modification differences and evaluations (by John Shotts): (1 Viewer)

[ShottsUZJ100]

Welcome folks. With all the requests I get about my 100's various lifts and modifications, I figured using this forum would make for a huge time saver for me (and others). It'll also benefit those contemplating how to build their 100-series for their needs.

Please note: I'm doing this to bring information and pictures to one place so people can see how various modifications compare. Because my 100 (Roklimo) has been a work in progress since 2001 I have experience with various suspension setups both on and off-road. I'll share them here. Also note that my intention is to not be the "100 genius". It's to share information from my perspective. Others may have different opinions and that's OK with me as different folks find different things more or less important. So, review my information here, do more reseach and then decide which mods are best for your truck. We'll also feature some comments and pics from other Cruiser owners where effective.

THIS THREAD WILL TAKE SOME TIME TO COMPLETE. IT WILL BE DONE IN PHASES. WE'LL START WITH A STOCK 2001 UZJ100 LAND CRUISER AND SHOW PROGRESS AS "ROKLIMO" WAS BUILT. YOU CAN PLAN TO SEE EVALUATIONS OF:

3 various tire sizes
3 different lift heights
3 different shock types and spring sets
Various modifications and other ways to improve your 100-series, some which are not my own. I'll update these advancements too as I learn about them.

SO, COME BACK FOR MORE INFORMATION AS I UPDATE IT. YOU CAN ALSO "SUBSCRIBE" TO THIS THREAD SO YOU GET AN AUTO UPDATE VIA EMAIL.

Thanks for reading. John

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

STOCK FORM:

We purchased our 2001 because we knew it was a Land Cruiser. We knew that Land Cruisers were ultra-reliable, built to last, and off-road capable. That was enough for us. While we didn't understand all the in's and out's to four-wheeling (like IFS, lockers, etc) we knew it was a Land Cruiser or nothing for us.

The UZJ100 Cruiser comes outfitted from the factory with:

Live/solid rear axle
IFS front-end with CV joints and torsion bars
31-inch Michelin LTX lighter-duty all season tires

Other 4-wheeling importants consist of:

2-speed transfer case
Locking CDL (center differential)
Active-TRAC traction control

Safety feature:

VSC...Vehicle Skid Control

Here's some early pics from Charouleau Gap and Gunsight Pass. Sorry the digital camera I had back then was sooooo bad! Next updates have good pics.

Good factory ground clearance

Dealer-installed brush guard offered no protection. Instead it took away ground clearnace and bent easily (into the hood center requiring re-paint)

100-series turn well and tight on the trail

Rode very smoothly in stock form even on the rocky trails

Amazingly the LTX tires held up OK despite a few tough early trail runs

Overall impressions equipped from the factory:

Pros:
*Plush ride on and off-road
*Good ground clearance
*Large tire size for a OEM tire
*Working traction control system that helped the SUV to continue forward
*Flexable suspension (RTI tested at 563 by Four Wheeler Magazine)

Cons:
*Lacking a solid front axle was a big disadvantage stated by OTHERS. Would it turn out to be for us? Time would tell.
*Expensive to beat up on the trail.
*Lacking front and rear locking differentials was a big disadvantage stated by OTHERS. Would it turn out to be for us? Time would tell.
*Needs a more aggressive and larger tire (if a larger tire would fit?).
*Needs a suspension lift and rock sliders in order to run more serious trails.
*Needs a different front bumper. One that doesn't hang down so low.
*Running boards have to go ASAP or get mangled on a trail (which did happen in a mud puddle on a dirt road)

Conclusion: Equipped this way, the Cruiser is best suited for on-highway travel (short and long distance) with light-duty trail use. IF you happened upon a trail's "rough spot" this thing somehow would make it through.

NEXT UP: Remove the running boards and swap out the tires (while researching other modification choices out there...which were near "non-existant" in 2001 )

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

OBJECTIVE: MODIFY THIS LAND CRUISER FOR FOUR-WHEELING:

Plan: Before working on improving the vehicle's strengths, here we'll eliminate whatever the negative's are that exist. They consist of:

1. Removal of front brush guard to improve front approach angle.
2. Removal of side-step OEM running boards to improve ground clearance.
3. Upgrade tires to the off-road style (within reason)

Numbers 1 and 2 need no explanation. Both the guard and the boards were removed in about an hour. They simply unbolted and were discarded. Actually, the boards came off first, the tires went on second, and the brush guard came off last.

Tires:

Our challenge was to find a tire size that would fit now (at stock height) and also not look silly after the future suspension lift was complete. After some research we determined that a 285-75x16 size would fit in stock form and was a popular choice on the lifted 80-series, so we made that our choice. In a tire we wanted:

*Aggressive off-road design
**Quiet as possible on-road ride
***Comfortable on-road ride
****Mud performance secondary

Our choice was the BFG AT KO. The 285 is basically a 33" tire as it measures 32.8" in height. The AT's are a costly tire. Some feel they are over priced. We still decided to go with the AT as it's the #1 selling light truck AT tire on the market. Gotta be reason why? (We hoped) Info here: http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overview/all-terrain-t-a-ko/44.html

Evauation:

GREAT IMPROVEMENT! First we did some local testing. These things gripped much better than the Michelins. They climbed and held us steady on decents.

We thought they looked good under the truck too. Aggressive but not too aggressive.

So....success! Fit's (no rubbing), functions, adds 1-inch ground clearance over stock, and meets all our expectations.

Evaluation: These changes (mainly the tire upgrade) made for a very positive improvement. We gave up VERY little in on-road ride quality while we gained off-road capability and durability. Combine that with added ground clearance and we had a vehicle that was up a step from before for certain...capability-wise. NOTE: The 285 spare fit in the stock location and with the OEM hitch in place.

Next up: WE HAVE TO FIND SOME UPGRADES! Need a new front bumper for certain. It just hangs down too far. We've also found some information on a possible suspension lift though we don't know if it's actually for sale yet? And....who has, or when will they have rock sliders. Gotta have both to run tough trails.....especially the sliders ASAP. Imagine the rocker panel damage on a new SUV?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

FOUND A FRONT BUMPER!

ARB USA...we luv you man! Their new "Sahara Bar" and "Bull Bar" were shipping!

Experienced Cruiser folks directed us to ARB. With a little research and some time finding a source we opted for the lighter-weight Sahara Bar. We got a great deal from Off Road Unlimited in Scottsdale, AZ. They had all the parts and services we wanted:

*ARB Sahara Bar
*IPF 130W round lights
*Warn 8000i winch (the largest the Sahara could fit at that time, now 9500)
*Custom paint matching
*Install

So, we were off to Scottsdale. 2-days later it was ready. WOW, what a sweet lookin' setup! We were really pleased with the looks, the design and the install by ORL. We really liked the integrated lights within the bumper. The mini IPF's also spread a bright and very wide pattern, great while turning.

OH OH.....why is the front-end sitting about 1/2 of an inch lower than before? Obviously this was due to the weight difference of the new bumper, lights, and winch. No fear here though. We re-adjusted the factory torsion bars back to their original height and all was well. Kind of. More on this later......

Road test: Let's start out easy....here's a few shotts of the new install:

Didn't hang down as low in the front for certain!

Yes, that's was my 12 year-old driving...he was awesome!

With all working properly we hit some tough trails. Here's a shot from the Broken Arrow Trail near Sedona, AZ. In early 2002 this trail was somewhat difficult in spots. The Arrow had many ledges and stairsteps that required care. We noticed the added weight of the front add-ons made for a squishier ride when decending obstacles. Added care had to be taken, though with the overall clearance the improvement far exceeded the extra concerns while dropping off of rocks.

Wheel lifting down Edge of the Earth on FR42 (Tonto Natl Forest)

What about capability?

While I do not have many pictures of the 100, we did attend a run with the AzLCA to the Superior Powerline. This trail was moderate in most parts, however, due to a gate closure we were forced to exit via a very tight and difficult canyon which many usually bypass by choice. We had no choice (other than returning 5-hours in reverse). The 100 made it through though it was very difficult. I had spotters on both sides and at times were within an inch of my new 100. I was freaking. The canyon's exit was also extreme as I still had my stock suspension. In any event, some rock stacking and great spotting by Joe Chott got me past the exit. The exit did claim some damage to a locked and loaded FJ55 on 37's. How did the 100 make it through? I didn't even have sliders yet! Oh, and it was this trip where I really learned the factory Active TRAC traction control really worked. Here's some pictures from the run:

I was there:

Canyon exit:

To show what the 100 went through equipped this way, here's some pictures from future trips:

COMMENT:

One negative thing we experienced (and often) since adding the front bumper...it was front heavy. This came into play when decending steep and off-cambered hills. The 100 was a wheel-lifter. While we never got ourselves into trouble we sure were thinking of a rear bumper to balance the weight out. (More on that to come)

Pics for example only. The vehicle was lifted on these pics. Wheel about 2.5 feet off the ground:

Same spot...80-series with front and rear bumpers. Some of the diff is added flex, much is the fact the 100 was front-heavy. His wheel is about 1 foot off the ground:

Another example

More comments: In time it was discovered that the OEM factory torsion bars were too soft to safely support the weight of a steel bumper and winch. Some breakages were reported in Australia. If you add a front bumper and winch you should immediately upgrade your t-bars.

Evaluation: The front bumper allowed me to run the recent trails with success. On Powerline alone I would have destroyed my stock bumper on the ledges and rocks. Capability and durability have been increased. I do have the concern about lifting rear wheels as you can feel the front-end dropping down and popping the rear up. It might sound rediculous, though with each upgrade we've done we've been allowed greater off-road success. Nothing we have done has been a step backwards. Even ride quality is still excellent.

What's next.......we've almost made a decision on a suspension lift, AND....nobody has sliders yet! Errrr!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

SUSPENSION LIFT OBJECTIVE: To raise the vehicle height in order to run more challenging trails. Adding height allows for:

*Fitment of a larger tire
*Better ground clearance
*Greater approach and departure angles
*Better articulation for vehicle stability off-road

Thank God for the World Wide Web. We were looking, calling, talking to every one we could about suspension lift options for the IFS 100-series. We were in the middle of discussion the possibles on Yahoo's 100 website and all of a sudden I received this email from Matt Qualey of Qualey Enterprises way back in New England:

"Hi John

As the owner of a shop that works on primarily Land Cruisers, I just wanted to pass on a tip, or perhaps a warning to you. This is not intended as a solicitation, just one Cruiser owner talking to another.

We wary of cranking up those front factory bars. We have noticed that over time excessively preloaded bars will bend the adjustment bolts. If you ever have to re-adjust or remove you're almost guaranteed to strip the threads out of the bolt and saddle (and your shoulder after cranking on one huge breaker bar!) . Toyota does NOT make replacements. We have a stock of custom made bolts and replacement saddles, but it was a major pain trying to sort the mess out. We tell our customers to save up and replace the factory bars with the much heavier SwayAWay units. They're less than $400.00 and make a vast difference in suspension feel and ride quality.

Congratulations on using your truck for its intended purpose by the way. I've got some pics of a customer's truck with 36s if you'd like some food for thought.

Take care
Matt Qualey
Qualey Enterprises"

That was the start. Matt and I spoke about details and pricing and in about 2 weeks the gear was on the way.
Meanwhile I had also linked up with Drexx Laggui. It turned out that Drexx already had a lifted UZJ and confirmed the info Matt had told me. So, with Drexx's trail-tested info I was stoked!

Components were:

OME 865 Rear Coils
OME N100/N101 shocks
SwayAWay 1661 front torsion bars

Installation took my mechanic about four hours as this was his first Land Cruiser upgrade. All went well except that when we road tested it, the truck pulled to the right 24/7 and when accellerating is was plain extreme. Concerned we re-looked at everything and hit the alignment shop. After alignment it drove perfectly. In fact, here's our impressions of this setup on-road:

*Smoooooth
*Handling was much improved. Less sway and much less dive (the lift compensated well for that heavy bumper/winch combo. It cornered and handled more like a "sport truck".
*Looked fantastic especially with the 33" tires.
*Did I say smooth? This was a concern.....that we'd loose the plush ride. We did not. In fact we far prefer the ride with this suspension compared to stock.

So, here's some completed pics. Remember, at this stage we had 2" OME lift and 33" tires:

Evaluation:
With the lift installed we were eager to see how it changed things on the trail. First up was the Sedona area. We were familiar with the trails before the lift so this would make for a good way to compare after.

WE WERE THRILLED! Less dragging, more clearance, more aggressive lines taken....the research and wait paid off, no doubt.

Ride quality on the trail (and dirt roads) remained very cushy, despite the slightly stiffer Old Man Emu suspension. The front-end could benefit by a slightly stiffer shock. In fact, about 1-year (or so) after adding my OME lift, OME released a slightly stiffer N133 front shock. For the record, the 133 did make an improvement, is recommended, though for me on a vehicle with an ARB bumper and winch, still would prefer an even stiffer front shock.

What's up next? I've been talking to Slee Off-Road about sliders. Now that the 100 is lifted you know I'll want to take more risky trails and more risky "lines" on the trails....gotta have protection though!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

They are here! The first set of Slee 100-series Rock Sliders off his production line! I got 'em!

*These things are built like a tank!
*The diameter of the tube section is huge!
*They go on easily...just be careful to place the mounts between the frame and your brake lines. Don't crush those brake lines!

So there's not a lot of story here. Let's get to some pics that show off the Slee Sliders.

Note: Most pics shown here has the vehicle lifted more and with larger tires...details to come on all that.

Golden Spike in Moab, Utah

Marana, AZ

Coke Ovens (Z-turn), AZ

FR42 (north half) Tonto National Forest

Conclusion:
These were worth their hefty cost. 5 years now and they've never moved. They are easy to touch up as they will get grinded down to the steel by the rocks. What they protect far outweighs their cost!
Slee's website: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/UZJ_sliders_main.htm

What options are left at this point and how did we feel about making them?

We had a notable trail rig equipped as it was. Like most wheelers though, we are always thinking of how to improve our ride. Back at this point, here's what we were considering:

1. We wanted a rear bumper to hold the spare and hi-lift though we demanded the type that offered aggressive ground clearance. We seen the Kaymar and TJM though they looked as large as the stock bumper so we would pass on them. We also wanted the rear bumper to even out the weight between the front and rear. This would add stability because the nose wouldn't want to "dive" any longer when going down the hills.

2. Safari Snorkel? Yikes! This 100 looked so good and was new. Do we cut the front fender?

3. Wish there was a way to fit 35-inch tires. We've heard talk....nothing yet though.

4. Adding ARB lockers was also a consideration. Drexx had added them already. He might have been the first in the US to do that. We're weren't sure. We went on many runs with locked 80-series and the TRAC-equipped 100 always seemed to get us through. Should we spend the money?

5. What about lower gears? Do they make them? Do we need them?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Safari Snorkel goes on!

I got a call from my good buddy Doron Strassman. He told me a story about his recent wheeling trips around the Parker and Bill Williams River areas here in AZ. While crossing the Williams with his family, Doron became very concerned as the water rose to the top of his hood. They weren't under long, though long enough for Doron to check the engine out after the crossing. He discovered his air cleaner box was FULL of water! A few more seconds under and Doron's V8 could of been toast. He freaked. I freaked when I heard this. Knowing we both were planning on running trails for years we figured being safe is better than sorry. I ordered mine ASAP.

Install was pretty tame other than cutting into the vehicle's fender. The toughest part was deciding what to do about the factory antenna that had to be removed as you can't have it AND the snorkel. We looked around at various vehicles and decided on a OEM antenna from a Dodge truck. Yes, my Land Cruiser is not 100% "made in Japan" any longer. The Dodge install went well and is very strong to date.

Here's some completed pics of the install. Speaking of antennas, that's a Firestick mounted to my ARB bumper (new hole drilled into bumper) for my CB radio.

More details can be found at:
http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/gallery/958323#44067441

Conclusion:

Pros:
1. Makes for a water tight seal protecting the motor from hydrolock
2. With the air intake being farther from the ground the motor sucks cleaner air
3. Some say you get horsepower gains due to the ram-air effect. I doubt this is the case.

Cons:
1. Ugly (in my opinion)
2. Not reversable/removable without huge expense (new fender and paint job)
3. The endless looks and questions from spectators and other drivers.
"What's that"
"Is that your exhaust?
"Is that for water"
"Why do you have that in Arizona?

We already know what's next! Doron has been measuring, calculating, and thinking about the front end of the UZJ. Doron's a missile designer. He's a lot smarter than me as I'm just a: He's gonna do it first and see how it goes. I gotta wait. For what you ask? The next update will tell the tale but for now, here's a clue:

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

OK...that last drawing gave it away!

Front differential drop designed by Doron Strassman

Objective: It's three fold. By lowering our front differential we hoped to accomplish three things.

1. Restore CV axle angle closer to the stock position.
2. To be able to re-adjust the front torsion bars for added lift while keeping the CV angles within range.
3. We hope there will enough lift available with good CV angle and enough down-travel to fit 35" (315x75-16) tires.

Full details are on my website: http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/gallery/958314#44065969

The job was pretty easy. My mechanic completed it in about 90-minutes. Everything matched up exactly like Doron had measured it out. We figured we lowered the overall height of the diff by just under one inch. The skid plate did require some spacers on a few of the holes in order to clear the newly lowered parts.

Doron sent the details of this mod to Slee Off-Road. Slee sells this mod as a kit. Information can be found here: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/suspension_pieces_spacers.htm#diff_drop

I personally recommend adding the diff drop to any size lift on the 100. At the very least it improves your CV angle which increases the life of the axle and the boot.

QUESTION? Will there be enough remaining lift and down-travel to fit 35-inch tires? Doron got me this far....I think I'll experiment with the 35's and report back to Doron.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

PLAN: LIFT THE TRUCK HIGHER SO 35-INCHERS WILL FIT PROPERLY

Projected changes that needed to occur:

Lift the front and rear ends of the vehicle about one-inch more
A. Lift front via torsion bar adjust
B. Lift rear via two 10mm trim packs (I did not want to change spring type due to the possbile effect on the ride quality.
C. We're guessing there might be some other adjustments needed but didn't know what they might be.

First up: We added two 10mm OME trim packers to each spring. These sit atop the rear springs and add 20mm if lift (about one inch). Since there's no spring change the ride is the same just one-inch taller.

Next: We re-adjusted the T-bars....first time was by sight in order to make the truck more level compared to the rear. (Less "rake") A road test revealed 24/7 front wheel lifting which is dangerous to your life and your CV joints as the lifted wheel would spin then instantly stop as it retouched the ground.

Last: Spare tire didn't fit with the OEM hitch. We removed the hitch and the 315 fit nicely. On the 100 the spare doesn't hang down as low as on the 80-series. Others have also found ways to further raise the spare from the ground.

We dropped the front about 1/4" inch at a time and kept road testing. We finally settled on what measured 2.75" above stock. To date, I've kept this height as it seems like the best compromise between Lift Height vs Suspension Down-travel (droop).

Here's the end result:

We luvved the look of the truck at the new height and with the bigger tires. Now we wondered how this change would effect our every day use of the 100. After days of driving, here's what we determined were "on-road" issues:

*Loss of some power. 35" vs 31" (stock) tires represent a 12% change in ratio. We noticed a slight reduction of "zip" from the red lights. We also noticed more downshifting on the highway though we still had plenty of passing power.

Solution: Regear the diffs to 4.88 which would be an almost bone stock ratio. To date, we have not done this. Cost for me is not worth it. Truck has the power though I wish I could regain the lost crawl ratio on the trails.

*At near full turn we experienced some mild rubbing in the front. It wasn't bad though it was enough that we figured it could mess up the tires.

Solution: We readjusted the front turn-stops. This took about 15 minutes via trail and error. once corrected it's rare for me to rub anything. Note: Some have added front wheel spacers to correct for this. Knowing the added stress spacers cause, I opted to not do this. Others who have, have not reported any added trouble with maintenance, that I am aware of. Here's a picture of the turn-stops (the little rubber stopper that hits the rim as the wheel turns):

Okay....so what about off-road?

Our experience off-road was incredible. The added size cut the difficulty factor by a pretty good level. Considering the 35-incher sticks out 1-inch farther out and 1-inch farther down it made climbing ledges and rocks more of a breeze. The bigger tires also swallowed the holes right up. We did notice two off-road issues:

1. On occassion, at higher speeds, the shocks will "top out" due to the lack of down-travel. The noise is irritating though after 70K miles there's been no added shock wear or trouble. It's not a "big" issue. It's an minor annoyance.

2. At full rear flex the rubbing was enough to bother me (others have lived with it). This we wanted to address. We took 2x2" steel and made spacers to lower the bump-stops (by 2"). The result was zero rubbing. While this did reduce some articulation, we felt the need to protect the tire outweighed the loss of flex. Future trail trips confirmed our decision though we did miss the extra droop that the lowered bump stops took away. (We did end up finding a fix for this down the road!)

Pic:

Conclusion:

This is one modification I would not hessitate to recommend if the vehicle will be used on the trails. The added ground clearance, tire size, and patch size all made for big plusses in the rough stuff. It's taken the 100 to another height (pun intended) on the capability ladder.

If the owner does not plan on running difficult or extreme trails, then I'd stick with the 33" size. With 33's you'll not lose power or any articulation. Smaller tires are also easier on your other truck parts.

Here's a few action shotts right after slapping on the 35's:

NOTE: I've run the 100 with 315's now for about 80K miles. I'd never go back. Here's some added comments and observations:

*Gas mileage stays around 12-14 around town. About 14-15 on the highway. (I am a leadfoot)

*Power-wise I am still happy. If I ever wreck a rear diff then I will regear. Otherwise I'm good.

*I go through brakes a bit quicker, though stopping distances are excellent and seem near uneffected.

*I have had to have my front wheel bearings repacked 4 times.

*At 110K I had my 3rd steering rack put on.

*No CV leakage or breakage. I did have a CV go bad due to boot install error at the dealer. The CV's can handle the 35s and my off-roading trips have proven it.

What was next on the "upgrade list"? Not a whole lot. Here were my thoughts back then:

*Lockers? Dang....don't have to have them, but.....naw. We'll drive this thing as is. TRAC always seems to get me through! We have an 80-series for some "locker-only" trail.

*Rear bumper? Gotta have it! When will Slee have his out?

*What will make the truck flex better? Shocks? Arms? Will someone be coming out with a more aggressive lift sometime soon? 4"? 6"?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Once the 35's were on, we began taking more aggressive trails and the more aggressive lines at the obstacles. The 100 did great, though we ran into a few bangs and crunches on the undersides. We kept hitting the "weak spot" on the 80 and 100 series trucks...the rear lower control arms and their mounts. We had to come up with a solution. What did we do? We copied Beli Merchovic's amazing 80-series by adding the following:

Rear Lower Control Arm Reinforcement and Skid Plates:

This was a two-step durability upgrade.

1. We took steel angle iron and tack welded it to the bottom of the stock arm. This basically helped to protect the arm from getting bent on a rock or ledge which is a common problem.

2. We welded 3/8" plate to the front of the arm mount. These arm mounts get hit and often and can bend which dislocates the position of the mount. These plates transferred the hit from the mount to the frame. They've been rock solid ever since.

So have they held up after Moab and all the other difficult trails? YES! Well, there was one glitch.

To date, the arm mounts are exactly where they were before. 100% success!

As far as the arms? Well.....one trip did mangle an arm, though not enough to mess up the drive home. Climbing three ledges on three tires at the same time I bent one rear arm horizontally and vertically. Basically I made a mini "S" out of it. After some hammering back at home it was good as new. This was a difficult trail that ate may vehicle parts that day. Bent driveshafts, body damage, destroyed control arm (not mine), etc, etc...carnage on Pyeatte Draw.

Here's the ledge where I was hopping that bent my arm into an "S":

CONCLUSION:

This is another must-do mod. It cost me about $20 in steal and $50 in labor and I've been protected. There's now new HD arms sold for the 100. At about $400 I'll keep the setup I have until something proves it "weak".

They did survive several "bumps" while climbing large ledges....like here at the Golden Stairs on the Golden Spike Trail:

What's next? More trails!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

What was I thinking?

We were on our way back from running Lopez and Sycamore Passes down south of Tucson. We spotted an incredibly steep downhill road that ended at a wash. We thought about trying it though we knew we'd have to climb it back up. It was getting late. Should we? ActiveTRAC never let us down before! We went for it!

About one car length down the long 100-yard hill the Cruiser simply began sliding and it slid ALL THE WAY to the bottom. Oh boy! I was freaking! If we slid all the way down, how in the heck can we climb it? Well.....we couldn't. After about 20 attempts (most with one front wheel going off and back onto the ground....a bad thing) we gave up.

Then, help came by! We winched to a Toyota Pickup and only the Pickup moved. So, his friend in a Silverado strapped to the front of the Pickup for help. Still a no go. On one pull I broke my winch cable. It was almost dark. Now what? Just then a huge quad decended the hill to see what's going on. He was going for more help though when he tried to climb the hill (with triple lockers) he could not. What was I thinking when I headed down this road? So, the quad driver exited via the wash. 5 minuntes later he returned and told us he thought the Cruiser could exit via the wash. Not wanting to leave the thing there overnight I gave it a shot.

Guess what? Exiting the wash was CAKE! Guess what else? When we returned to pavement we heard bad noises from the front while slowing down.

After a trip to Toyota for Extended Warranty Service I had a new front differential. So I have been one of the very few to break a 4-pinion front diff. We know from reports that the 2-pinion diffs in the 98 and 99 model-years are weak. The 2000+ models are not. In all fairness however, this diff failed due to driver error. I was desperate and alone and kept getting more and more aggressive on the gas trying to get back up that hill.

Conclusion: ActiveTRAC is NOT enough. If we're going to attempt difficult climbs like this we need more traction and the security of locking differentials. I think it's time to add ARB lockers front and rear.

NOTE: As you'll see in the next post...ARB diff's went in. We did return to this same hill. Once again we decended it though this time with a few 80-series buddies. From the bottom, Kevin in his 80 headed up first. About 2/3 the way up he almost went off the side of the road and then got high-centered. It looked SCARY! He had to fly to make the climb and he did on try #2. The guys talked me into the attempt and the 100 did it's "do" too and on the first attempt. So, lockers DO make the difference!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Have you read the last post?

ARB Air Lockers were installed.

ARB was the obvious choice for me. Reasons:

*When unlocked, the diff is "open". Because it's open:

**The vehicle works the same as stock...Permanent 4WD
**ActiveTRAC traction control is uneffected
**VSC is uneffected

*They lock and unlock near instantly
*They are stronger than factory Toyota diffs

The install was done by 4Wheel Parts in Mesa, AZ. Obviously, this was there first ever 100-series vehicle to get lockers. They did a great job. The switch install looked great and to date they have not failed (~60K miles). Here's some pics:

By the way....Doron Strassman (the creater of my diff drop) also figured out how to make the lockers activate the factory dash locker lights light. Info on that can be found on IH8MUD.COM.

What about gears? The pumpkins were ripped out. Isn't that the time to do it?

Nobody knew if gears from an 80-series would work in the 100-series. 4WP's obtained a set from Randy's R&P though they did not fit. The front gear in the 100 is the same as an 80. The rear gear is different in the 100 so that scratched the gear swap. A bit disappointed but we'd live with it.

NOTE: Folks have found a way to regear the rear of the 100. They use a 100-series locker, an 80-series gearset as well as other 80-series parts and the like. It's costly. Somewhere around $2400...no thanks.

OFF-ROAD TESTING:

FABULOUS! Even more grip! Less slippage. It was obvious that these will save wear and tear on the tires and driveline components.

One notable improvement (if you have a 2000+ with traction control) is running LOCKED REAR and UNLOCKED FRONT/TRAC combo. With a locked rear and an UNlocked front you have full turning capability. The front TRAC claws for traction which helps though you can still turn! What a sweet advantage over a fully locked front. Of course, if needed you can lock the front too.

COMMENT: At first at was also apparent that tire wear was lessened since adding the lockers. Less clawing for traction equalled less wear and tear on the tires (and trail). This was short lived however. Once I kept learning the vehicle's added capabilities I began taking harder and harder lines. The result? Chewed up tires far faster than without the lockers. I drove this vehicle at an entire other "level" than before.

Here's pics of some lines I took where lockers really reduced the difficulty vs traction control:

FR42 (north half):

Chiva Falls (left side of Three Feathers obstacle):

Pyeatte Draw:

What about breakage with the front locker? Is the IFS strong enough?

Time has proven the 100-series ISF is up to the task. There's been numerous times where I've been locked front and had to turn, climb, hop, and the like. The CV axles are large and solid. No issues in 4 years!

What about triple lockers vs traction control?

No one system is best. That's the beauty of having BOTH systems at your disposal. Here's some examples:

Triple lockers:

*Overall, the most traction, especialy if flexed out.
*Off-camber, locker(s) can pull you to the side off the rock and/or into the ditch.
*Locking just one (the rear) is usually enough....IF the rear axle is the one with traction. Scenario: I've been in situation with rear-locked 98-99 where the rear wheels were in the wet and fronts on a dry ledge. The vehicle didn't move.

ActiveTRAC:

*Enough traction to run most trails (even difficult ones) successfully.
*Off-camber, traction control usually tracks true with little side-to-side effect. It's usually safer in these scenarios.
*All four wheels have traction assist. In the above scenario (wet rear wheels, dry fronts...or even vsa0versa) the TRAC vehicle would climb.
*A locked rear/front TRAC combo simulates a locked front locker fairly closely. It also allows for 100% turning capability often making the climb easier than a locked front.

NOTE: There is an advantage too (in my opinion) to having ARB lockers (over Toyota electric lockers) and a CDL (center diff lock) switch. On very tight turns where the terrain requires added traction, locking the rear and leaving the CDL open (off/unlocked) allows for a MUCH tighter turn than with a locked CDL. Since this is not possible with electric lockers, this is another advantage you have depending on your challenge.

What about snow and ice?

Field testing in slick and icy situations gives traction control (and VSC) a HUGE advantage over lockers. With TRAC and VSC you have a system doing things for you that a driver can't figure. Point the truck, use care, and it does much of the work for you. On the other hand, lockers will slide you sideways and/or can spin you out. Of course driver experience effects these outcomes, however in my comparisons I could do things, and easily, with TRAC and VSC I could not do locked up. This included climbing simple icy hills. TRAC did it. I couldn't move when I locked up. I just slid all over.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Very late 2004 (after years of bugging MR. Slee).....I got the call from Christo at Slee Off-Road. He said IT was coming.

OK, the faces above told my response. I was so excited as we already had plans to attend Cruiser Moab in May. The question was....would I have the bumper by then? The answer is YES! I got the first one off Slee's line and had it painted and installed in no time.

NOTE: We made a suspension change to accomodate the bumper's added weight. The changes were:

*Installation of OME 863 springs (made for the FZJ80). 863's are "heavy" and they are taller than OME 100 heavy springs. This turned out to be the perfect spring for me and my vehicle setup. The rear stayed at the same height as my 865 + 20mm spacers though added the stiffness I needed for ride control with the added weight. The rear lift was still at 3" over stock. No bottoming out, not too stiff.....just right!

*I swapped in a new pair of rear OME shocks. Not knowing the condition of my old shocks I wanted new ones so we could really evaluate a "new" OME shock/OME863 spring combo.

It mounted easily to the truck, the Hilift fit like a charm and the spare tire carrier was strong an worked well. I really prefer the spare in the center as you can still see back by both D-pillars. With the spare to one side it makes for a large blindspot due to the combo of the spare and pillar. Others may agree or disagree.

Looking at the bumper ON the truck I noticed that the bumper's design was more designed with four-wheeling in mind when compared to the Kaymar and TJM. The Slee bumper offers more ground clearance and a better departure angle.

Off road observations:

After install we hit the Sedona and Prescott areas. After driving some trails and playing around on the Broken Arrow Trail and at the Alto Pit OHV Park we noticed one HUGE improvement......THE TRUCK'S WEIGHT WAS BALANCED FRONT-TO-REAR! Instead of being a "rear wheel lifter" in the flexy spots, the truck tracked flat. Occasionally we would even lift a FRONT wheel.

I just can't tell you how having the balance weight stablilized the big SUV off-road. Not only did the vehicle track more level but the rear axle articulated better/easier. I'm assuming it was due to the added weight over the axle that the bumper provided.

Also observed:

*Much more clearance while dropping off rocks and ledges
*Extreme solidity...hitting rocks and the like were really FELT as the bumper did not give.
*The vehicle simply flexed easier (due to more rear weight and a level ride)

Suspension Eval: In my opinion, equipped as my truck is, the OME shocks and 863 springs offered me the ideal off-road setup. Maximum lift, good control, and a great on AND off-road ride. Even in the rough stuff, this truck rides NICE!

What about your truck's setup? Here's some considerations for a 100-series equipped with front and rear steel bumpers. Research this with others asI have not run the truck with these scenarios:

2" lift: Go with 866 heavy 100 springs (865's will be too soft and bouncy and will bottom out)
2-3" lift and with a loaded truck (drawers, dual tanks, roof racks, etc): I'd go with 864 heavy 80-series springs or possibly 863 springs a rear air bags.

You will need HEAVY springs to support this rear weight properly.

Conslusion: On the Golden Spike Trail in Moab there was one ledge where BOTH my rear wheels are off the ground so the weight of the truck was on the Slee Bumper! It held and with no effects on the install. You can wheel with this bumper 24/7 and it'll hold up. It looks superb on the vehicle it was designed for. I think it's Slee's best bumper yet! It looks like a luxury and off road bumper in one when color-matched. It is pricey. It's big too because the 100 is big. It also took my off-road ride to a new level. More level, stable, balanced, and durable than the same truck before the install. Spend the money and you will not regret it!

Oh....and it even held up while winching out my friend's Land Rover D90 that was buried in mud almost to his wheel tops.

Before....I would have lifted this rear wheel. Not now:

Going over the Golden Crack I never lifted a rear wheel. In this spot had I NOT had the bumper to balance the weight, my front wheel would have been nose-dived in the Crack and my rear wheel soaring in the air. Notice here that I am stable instead:

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

OK....with my 100 being basically "completed" I continually tried to imagine what other changes could be made to improve off-road performance. One thought that kept naggin' at me was:

"OK, why do they have long-travel L-shocks for the 80-series and not for the 100?"

The answer in the front is obvious! IFS! Travel could not be improved by just adding a long shock (without wrecking something else).

"What about the rear though?" "The rear suspension is very similar in the 80" "I have L-shocks with 863 springs on my 80-series...why can't I slap them on my 100?"

The answers I got over and over to the above questions was "they don't fit". When I'd ask why I'd also get the following:

"The parts fit differently, plus it's a different truck"
"On an 80 the L-shocks were made for taller springs than the 863"
"Why do you want them?" "What will you gain?"
"Nobody is running this setup"

I would him-and-haw at the answers, though every trip out in the 100 this topic kept nagging at me. "If the 863 and N74 L-shock work so well on my 80-series, why can they not work on my 100?"

Finally, Mr. Slee had some extra time after I pushed him pretty hard to tell me "what it would take to put the L-shock on the 100 so I could try the setup out" and he came through. Here's the details:

"For John. N74L vs N101

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

John, the N74L should work by swapping some of the bushings.

Measurements:

N74L compressed vs N101 = 1" longer
N74L extended vs N101 = 2.6" longer

The bottom bushing ID is 19mm but on the N101 the width is 45mm and the N74L is 40mm. So you would need to use the N101 bottom bushing.

The top pin is 17mm on the N101 and 14mm on the N74L. The index washer lip is 26mm on the N101 and 22mm on the N74L.

So on the top you need to use the N101's washers and hardware, but you need to use the poly bushings from the N74L.

So there you go, send the check."

FINALLY....I HAD A SOLUTION! I had the parts...because I had 100 shocks. I "sent the check" and ordered a pair of N74L shocks. On they went in an hour.

We took the thing out to a very familair nearby play area we always hang at. We tried it on a hill where we always lifted wheels in the deep holes. We were SO EXCITED....the wheels swallowed the holes right up and this thing felt like it was my 80 out there. Here's my first two pics:

Slee mentioned to me that I might want to retain the 863 spring being that it was shorter than the L-shocks usually get matched up with. My 80's 863 spring/N74L shock setup was not retained and in 3-years I have never lost one. Knowing though that the 100 is a different vehicle and this experiment had not been tried yet, I took his advice and retained them. Here's the before shot and one of the retainer:

At this point our install was complete. It was quick tested. After 5 minutes we were amazed at the improvement. So how would it do on real word trails? FANTASTIC!

The following Saturday we went to Chiva Falls. It's a trail I've run with every suspension setup I've had. A better test didn't exist for me. Here's my observations from this first trip:

WOW! THIS THIS FEELS LIKE MY 80-SERIES! It flexes!

OK....what about that one really twisted spot where I used to WHEEL LIFT?

Man! The thing felt like the front compressed better. Possibly because the rear stayed up higher away from the ground due to the added droop/travel. ???

Just compare to my other picture here. Note that some of the difference in this comparison is due to the fact I had also added the rear bumper which balanced the weight, though most is from the shock change no doubt.

OK...WHAT ABOUT THE BIG N74L DEBATE ON IH8MUD?

There's been intense debate about the beneifts of this modification. It's easy to visualy confuse the travel debate in one's mind. I'll try to explain why this made such a difference ON MY 100. Before we start, everyone does agrees that the N74L shock has 2.6" more travel than the N101. Please keep that in mind.

My personal truck:
N101 shock - 2" bump stop reduction (to stop the rubbing) = N101 - 2" travel
Using N101 as "x", the equation is:
x - 2 = -2 (in other words I was down 2" travel from a "normal" N101 install)

OK....Keeping EVERYTHING THE SAME and add in 2.6" more travel that the N74L offers (down, up, whatever...it's travel).....so what is "everything the same" plus 2.6? IT'S 2.6" MORE TRAVEL THAN BEFORE! Follow me?

Now, to look at this another way (which is NOT my scenario and here's where some have targeted me incorrectly):

N101 travel = N101 travel (The typical 100-series setup)
N74L travel - 2" bumpstop reduction (my setup) = +2.6 - 2 = 0.6 increase.

In other words if you compare MY 100 setup with bumpstopped N74L's to a everyday lifter 100 with N101 and without bumpstop reduction (lots of rubbing) then my 100 only gains 0.6" over the norm which isn't much. That I agree with . The trouble is that the 35's rub too much without lowered bumpstops.

Now....the ideal travel setup....N74L and 33-inch tires! With 33's you don't need to lower your stops to eliminate rubbing, however you do need to lower them by 0.5" to protect the shock. With this outfit the math is easy. Compared to N101:

N74L adds 2.6" travel less the 0.5" for the required bump stop lowering. This nets the user an increase of 2.1" travel over the typical N101 setup. That's a great advantage! One would have to opt for this setup would they not? Yes!

BOTTOM LINE: Regardless of critics, measuments, numbers, and the like, this swap change TRANSFORMED my 100 out on the trails. It's MUCH more stable, remains level, articulates, and handles MUCH better than it did with the N101 100-shocks. There is NO WAY I would EVER go back to the N101! It takes ONE TRIP to compare the setups. Trust me...the N74L is the ONLY way to go if you have the taller spring to match (863/864 by themselves or 865/866 w'20mm trim packs atop).

I have travelled on trips with other lifted 100's. On each trip the other drivers could see that my 100 just flexed better and was more stable. I'm no physicist, but I am the owner of this fine vehicle that I've driven on so many trips and with different suspensions. It's not rocket science to tell the difference this made off the pavement. My challenge for those who are considering this shock option: Don't listen to the forum folks who have never even tried it! They are wrong. Dead wrong. There is a difference! The longer L-shock is used 24/7 on the 80-series. It works on the 100-series too!

Here's more pictures of the 100 since the N74L upgrade:

COMMENTS:

*There is no more travel to be added on the rear with 35's and an aftermarket bumper. I am at the limit now! At full compression the rear tire will just touch the Slee bumper. Any more and there'd be trouble.
*Because of the above situation you would have to lower those rear stops the 2" like I did if you run the 35" tires. If not, the tire and Slee bumper would stop progress.
*If you don't mind rubbing the 35's and wanted more travel, you could lessen the bump stop reduction though you'd not be able to have an aftermarket bumper. This scenario I have not tested....it might be OK with a stock bumper, though you might need to cut it some. I think this scenario would push you into territory where negatives come into play?

DO THIS MOD!

More N74L flex action shotts:

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

OH! HERE'S ANOTHER BEFORE AND AFTER COMPARISON:

This is as far up this rock that I could get before lifting a rear wheel. Compare it to the same rock with N74L on the second picture. AMAZING!

OK...on to more action shotts:

And in conclusion....pictures from the left side of the Three Feathers obstacle on the Chiva Falls Trail. I started up this a few times in the past. the 100 began lifting wheels EARLY. I always backed down. With the added travel and stability I went for it. There was not a slip on the climb though I was so off-camber it was my slider that kept me from sliding over on the climb. Thank God for sliders.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

SO WHAT'S LEFT?

Here's a few minor wants:

*LED interior lamps
*Tires that will never get chewed up from running trails.
*A new steering wheel that's not chewed up

Here's my major wants:

*None....really. Equipped as is I think this truck is the best combination of all talents in one package. In my opinion it exceeds even the 80-series vehicles overall.

What would I like to see happen though I do not need:

*4.88 gearset (not worth the cost of upgrade to me)
*Longer traveling front suspension
*Taller suspension lift (4-6") which would compensate for the truck's extended bumpers and overall size.

 

[pkfj]

That's a pretty incredible thread! The pictures are amazing; and the info detail is impressive... You also have some major driving talents..As I don't see any dents on your 100!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

That's a pretty incredible thread! The pictures are amazing; and the info detail is impressive... You also have some major driving talents..As I don't see any dents on your 100!

Thanks much, HOWEVER......I've dented my front ARB bumper twice. BOTH times were when I was hurrying to get out of somebody's way. I never learn. It needs fixing and painting again.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

GREAT QUESTION WAS JUST ASKED ABOUT THE N74L SHOCKS AND BUMPSTOP LENGTH:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colicious
shotts, what are your thoughts on your 2" bumpstops? do you feel like that is the amount to lower them? do you think 1" stops could work?

Two-fold answer:

1. Rubbing-wise, at 2" I have almost none. I would bet at 1" the amount would be tolerable. If the 100 was my main trail rig, I'd go with 1" stops.

2. On MY 100, with my Slee Bumper.....2" is needed. At full compression my tire will just make contact with the bumper. It's not enough though to stop progress. At 1", the bumper might stop the wheel from rotating.....not good.

 

[-Spike-]

Bump stops are generally also used to prevent overcompressing your shocks. Got measurements?

-Spike