- Thread starter
- #1,621
MEMCruiser said:
Capable,but DAMN as hard as I try I can't get past the looks.
100 Series General Tech and Classifieds (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Capable,but DAMN as hard as I try I can't get past the looks.
wngrog said:
Sage advice.
Would love to have TE runner but hard to find in this area. Going to Nashville tomorrow for a anniversery get away. A dealership up there is suppose to have a TE in dark gray color. We might take a look at it. You get a rear locker and the KDSS system
but you pay 5Gs more for it vs the SR5. Not real sure about the KDSS system.
She will get what she wants, always has and always will
but you pay 5Gs more for it vs the SR5. Not real sure about the KDSS system.She will get what she wants, always has and always will
Bomar
SILVER Star
Sway bar front and rear bushing part numbers
Over the weekend I replaced the front and rear sway bar bushings. Mine were worn out and causing a creaking sound when turning off camber and going over speed bumps. The total price came in under $100.00.
I decided to just replace the bushings and not the links as I felt like they were in good shape and undamaged. This does save some money. The stabilizer links are between 17-20 dollars depending on where you get them. If you buy just the bushing, the price is between 10-12 dollars.
If you have over 150K and your bushings look like the ones in the picture, I would highly recommend changing them. Here are the part numbers needed to change the front and rear bushings.
I also attached the diagrams with the part numbers for future reference...
90948-01003 $1.62 ea x4
48815-60111 $8.56 ea x2
48849-60010 $9.23 ea x2
48817-30010 $2.48 ea x4
48815-60140 $9.61 ea x2
90385-11021 $1.49 ea x2
90119-08B50 $0.74 ea x4
90119-10765 $1.12 ea x2
94184-61001 $0.74 ea x2
90119-08834 $0.89 ea x4
90101-10172 $1.40 ea x2
90179-08062 $0.67 ea x2
Over the weekend I replaced the front and rear sway bar bushings. Mine were worn out and causing a creaking sound when turning off camber and going over speed bumps. The total price came in under $100.00.
I decided to just replace the bushings and not the links as I felt like they were in good shape and undamaged. This does save some money. The stabilizer links are between 17-20 dollars depending on where you get them. If you buy just the bushing, the price is between 10-12 dollars.
If you have over 150K and your bushings look like the ones in the picture, I would highly recommend changing them. Here are the part numbers needed to change the front and rear bushings.
I also attached the diagrams with the part numbers for future reference...
90948-01003 $1.62 ea x4
48815-60111 $8.56 ea x2
48849-60010 $9.23 ea x2
48817-30010 $2.48 ea x4
48815-60140 $9.61 ea x2
90385-11021 $1.49 ea x2
90119-08B50 $0.74 ea x4
90119-10765 $1.12 ea x2
94184-61001 $0.74 ea x2
90119-08834 $0.89 ea x4
90101-10172 $1.40 ea x2
90179-08062 $0.67 ea x2
Last edited:
That's how you do TECH! Nice work 
That's how you do TECH! Nice work
Thanks! Hope it helps someone else out. One of my few contributions to the tech section here!
Is a zerk a 2 way mechanism, can it fail? I was pumping more grease into my driveline to quiet the thunk and stopped, like normal, when I had pushed all the old grease out. As I was wiping off the old grease 1 zerk began a steady toothpaste action. Did I just way over fill it and it was just back pressure or can zerk openings fail?
- Thread starter
- #1,629
SHUSH said:
There is a ball in the zerk with a tiny spring.
Get a coat hanger or small stiff wire and push it in there to see if you can get it to stop.
Spot on Nolen. One question though; are you talking about greasing the u-joints gill fresh grease comes out or are you talking about greasing the splines till fresh grease comes out? If it's the splines that is way too much grease and can do damage. Just 2-3 pumps from the grease gun should be fine. You dont want to pressurize the cavity in the driveshaft there is no way for the shaft to colapse without either blowing the seal or doing some other damage.
- Thread starter
- #1,631
I grease the rear shaft on my 80 till it starts to expand slightly. This is more than I would run on a crawler but on a 100 or 80 it gets rid of the "clunk" when starting off.
This.....and Bossman, warning headed.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/674997-arb-sahara-bar-100-series-lc.html
ARB Sahara for 99 - 02 in Jackson.
Not affiliated, just saw it in the for sale forum.
ARB Sahara for 99 - 02 in Jackson.
Not affiliated, just saw it in the for sale forum.
Redcrayon said:Thank you for relaying this. My first ARB.
Glad you picked it up.
We will be adding an '01 to the fleet in a few months and as soon as the front or rear bumpers get damaged, they will be upgraded. Let me know if you want to sell it in a year or two.
Combing the interwebs
A friend of a friend is looking for a 100.
As much as I am on mud I don't look at classifieds, craigslist, etc. much at all.
so if you see one in these parameters post up.
Single female in 30s seeks white, black, silver, or grey 100 series, $9-$12k range, prefer lots of dealer records, stock configuration.
1
2
3
GO!
A friend of a friend is looking for a 100.
As much as I am on mud I don't look at classifieds, craigslist, etc. much at all.
so if you see one in these parameters post up.
Single female in 30s seeks white, black, silver, or grey 100 series, $9-$12k range, prefer lots of dealer records, stock configuration.
1
2
3
GO!
Single 30's? Please post pictures...
I don't have one or I would have 
I thought you had a girlfriend? or is that kinda like us all looking for the "next" cruiser?
I thought you had a girlfriend? or is that kinda like us all looking for the "next" cruiser?
I don't have one or I would have
I thought you had a girlfriend? or is that kinda like us all looking for the "next" cruiser?
don't have one presently...but am always looking
I offered the club's services in inspecting one if she wants......maybe i can arrange something if she calls...
