Disagree. I've had two "relatively low mile" 100s that have had that problem. It's not a certainty it'll happen, but it's a definite possibilityThat is a 1% issue that gets blown to a 25% issue on Mud.
2006...not likely to have rubbed.
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Disagree. I've had two "relatively low mile" 100s that have had that problem. It's not a certainty it'll happen, but it's a definite possibilityThat is a 1% issue that gets blown to a 25% issue on Mud.
2006...not likely to have rubbed.
Yes, they can be removed relatively easily. It's just that the rubber gasket around the upper side of the flares can rub on the paint making marks in it or actually rubbing through. I had a RR Green 98 once that I pulled the flares off early enough that there was no damage at all. On the other hand, I had a couple more that had wear marks in the paint. smm3 pulled his flares off of his 2000, and I think he got away with no (or very little marking). One other thing: Toyota came up with a novel way to mount the forward part of the rear flares to the door where it opens. That's the point that one of mine had the most damage. They used some "cushion" tape on the mounts, and they can sometimes wear through................I wouldn't let this discussion run anyone off. They just need to be aware that paint scuffing is likely (and wear through is possible). The lighter the paint, the easier any imperfections will be to correct.Can the flares just simply be removed? Or the damage has been done?
Yes, they can be removed relatively easily. It's just that the rubber gasket around the upper side of the flares can rub on the paint making marks in it or actually rubbing through. I had a RR Green 98 once that I pulled the flares off early enough that there was no damage at all. On the other hand, I had a couple more that had wear marks in the paint. smm3 pulled his flares off of his 2000, and I think he got away with no (or very little marking). One other thing: Toyota came up with a novel way to mount the forward part of the rear flares to the door where it opens. That's the point that one of mine had the most damage. They used some "cushion" tape on the mounts, and they can sometimes wear through................I wouldn't let this discussion run anyone off. They just need to be aware that paint scuffing is likely (and wear through is possible). The lighter the paint, the easier any imperfections will be to correct.
smm3 may have some remarks on what he did with his. I think he was able to correct all problems on his white paint.
Gap covers for rear window wind deflector......anybody have a part numbe
I found this great thread on roof racks and parts but I can't find anything for the rear "spoiler" I want to remove it but don't want holes on the back of the truck...any ideas?
Remove or Install Your Factory Roof Rack - TLC FAQ
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 12037 75-52 Moulding Parts
I had planned to martin, but a tree kind of ...well removed it, while wheeling
one of the side effects of owning a Land CruiserI was on a tight trail I shouldn't have been on.....oh well
OME t-bars, replaced the 863 rears with 866s. Not sure which shocks f/r. I'm told the PO turned up the front bars, so once I turn them down, it'll be just like I want it to be.What suspension kits are on yall's trucks? Specifically what rear springs?
I'm leaning towards OME865's with the N100/N101 Shocks.
Dunno, but I followed Nolen's experience when I changed out my rears. My objective is to get it sitting completely level. Ive got an ARB combo bar and MM 9k winch (steel cable) in front with a BIOR dual swing out in rear (with a fair amount of internal gear -a/k/a crap - in weight), and it's sitting nearly level now. Once the bars are adjusted, I hope it'll be like I want it to be.Nolen prefered the 866's over the 863's as well. I'm wondering if the 865's would be the best of both worlds.