100 Series Calipers + Rotors?

[FirstToy]

I must say that this completely blows me away. The FJC is 10 years newer, thousands of pounds lighter, has Toyota's newest braking technology....

.... and the FZJ80 stops within 4' from 60 MPH. There is no way anyone can consider those breaks to be a "deathtrap" unless the owner has screwed up the braking system due to poor maintenance.

Case closed.

-B-

Agree, the 80 is no deathtrap.

The other factors of the FJC and other new Toyota suv's is they have EBFD and power brake assist as well as a really fast ABS (in turn, a really great ATRAC system).
I think these things will make the FJC's brakes perform better over many conditions and situations.

 

[Tools R Us]

I must say that this completely blows me away. The FJC is 10 years newer, thousands of pounds lighter, has Toyota's newest braking technology....

.... and the FZJ80 stops within 4' from 60 MPH. There is no way anyone can consider those brakes to be a "deathtrap" unless the owner has screwed up the braking system due to poor maintenance.

Case closed.

-B-

Think about it for a second, brakes are a pretty simple device, that convert motion energy to heat. They have been engineered on for century or more, given the constraints of $$$, what will fit in the wheel and can be operated, maintained by the general driving public, at this point a few feet is a big deal.

The 80 brakes have a long peddle travel, it feels differently than most, some don't prefer it or aren't used to it. I prefer it for the trail, allows precision modulating when power braking without jerkiness. The FJC has a very short stroke, feels like a switch on/off, I haven't mastered them on the trail yet, not very smooth.

 

[Beowulf]

... and both of you guys had to quote my gross misspelling. (breaks... sheesh.)

-B-

 

[Tools R Us]

Happy now.... I didn't even notice.

 

[CJF]

"Them's the brakes!"

 

[LX_TREME]

JDM 80s brake caliper exclusively from TOM's = Toyota Motorsports.

6-piston design caliper both front with 14" big brake kit.

Modification to knuckle required for installation.

Please note that 18" wheels are required for you to be able to fit these rotors & calipers underneath your 80s Landcruiser.

Weight of 33 lbs each.

Price: $5600.00 USD shipping and handling not included and will be added to orders for these.Anyone?


Rotors, caliper pic's below for 100s Landcruiser and 80s Landcruiser KOC brake pads operating temperature range of 2,000°F.

 

[bjowett]

Chibo, I understand what you are after. Here is an old post https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=10467 that has a brief discussion on what I am planning to do... after I complete my 5 million other projects.

One thing that did happen was to install some air scoops on the splash plates, a little improvement there. If you need more power, Toyota T100 1 tons came with a 1 1/16" master which will bolt in place of the 80 series master.

 

[agomez]

kid....SEE "C DAN".......he will make all your problems go away...

 

[chibo]

Chibo, I understand what you are after. Here is an old post https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=10467 that has a brief discussion on what I am planning to do... after I complete my 5 million other projects.

One thing that did happen was to install some air scoops on the splash plates, a little improvement there. If you need more power, Toyota T100 1 tons came with a 1 1/16" master which will bolt in place of the 80 series master.

Thank you

 

[IronYuppy]

FYI, new SS brake lines will also improve brake "feel" though most of us will not tell you this helps with the brake performance.

-B-

My 0.02 if you're going to take your LC off-road with stanless steel brake lines, spend a couple of bucks to cover them with an appropriate-sized plastic loom. SS lines can chafe on a vehicle with a suspension that articulates, and the loom protects them,

Also keeps stainless steel brake-line thieves away

 

[IdahoDoug]

I have braided stainless hydraulic brake lines on my mountain bike, and covered them to protect the aluminum frame (they'll cut right through). Found an electrical supply shop that had various colors of shrink wrap plastic tubes in 5 foot lengths. Found the smallest size I could get over the banjo fittings, cut to size and a few minutes with a heat gun produced a factory looking fitted plastic brake line cover. The bonus was the color, but I'll leave you guys guessing 'cause mountain bike style is a personal choice...

DougM

 

[chibo]

I have braided stainless hydraulic brake lines on my mountain bike, and covered them to protect the aluminum frame (they'll cut right through). Found an electrical supply shop that had various colors of shrink wrap plastic tubes in 5 foot lengths. Found the smallest size I could get over the banjo fittings, cut to size and a few minutes with a heat gun produced a factory looking fitted plastic brake line cover. The bonus was the color, but I'll leave you guys guessing 'cause mountain bike style is a personal choice...

DougM

I have to guess either hot pink or neon green ... assuming you're making a similar fashion statement as my pink hardtail with white fork lowers. Are you running goodridges?

 

[robmir]

Beside the rotors and the pads the biggest difference between the two crusiers(80 vs 100) is the method that they use to generate brake line pressure. The 80 uses vaccuum booster and the 100 uses high pressure electric pump to generate the pressure. You will never get the same brakeing power out of jsut changeing the caliper and rotor. You would need to adapt a HP electric pump in the system.
I do beleive the calipers will bolt straight up and you could use the stock 80 rotor(the pads do fit inside the stock 80 caliper). I have not done this, but have taken measurements and all look good on measurements. Jsut never had the spare part to try this. The calipers are a little different in the cylinders are a little bigger, but not much. I think the biggest difference is how the brake line pressure is generated. later robbie

On my old FJ-40 V-8, 4 wheel disc brake equiped , I adapted a chevrolet hydraboost which is feeded by the power steering pump.

There is no words to describe the pedal feeling of this mod, Is waaay better than any Toyota SUV I tested to date.

This will be my next upgrade on my FZJ-80 ( got already a new hydraboost on my shop), and I bet it will be quite easy to fit in. My concern is my Toyota stock pump which do some funky noise when the oil is hot. I will add a small cooler in front of the radiator (and do a overhaul of the pump), those big tires take a toll.

 

[Bruneti]

The truck has been owned since new by my family (the second, our first was a 92). ... it's got DBA slotted front/rear with EBC greens and motul brake fluid....

Everyone has given you some very good advise for ensuring your brakes are performing "as new" before getting too crazy.

I suspect that the root of your problem lies primarily with either the EBC green pads, a failing master cylinder, or the possibility of needing to perform a more thorough bleed with fresh fluid. I have not EVER heard positive comments on EBC brake pads related to stopping power and fade resistance. Especially the green pads. Especially on a vehicle as heavy as the 80. I only hear them praised for their low amount of break dust. I'd rather stop and make some dust. I believe that a high quality carbon-metallic pad pad should be used on the 80 for best fade resistance.

I personally have ventured outside of the "all Toyota parts" camp, and am trying the following combo:
Fronts - Performance Friction Z-rated carbon-metallic pads with Brembo OEM replacement rotors (good quality rotors and cheaper than CDan)
Rears (Not Yet Installed) - Hawk LTS carbon-metallic pads with Toyota Rotors (no Brembo rear rotor available and I don't know if I trust the cheaper parts store brands to hold up and not warp)
Fluid - Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid
Stainless brake lines (future)

As far as your quest for a Big Brake Kit, the chance of keeping the cost reasonable is slim. The only cost effective changes that I see MIGHT be:
1. Larger master cylinder from a different Toyota application to improve brake response. This should shorten the brake pedal stroke required to achieve high braking force at the risk of now making your brakes touchy.
2. Larger diameter rotor and caliper mounting spacer. This would increase your swept area, and mass for heat dissipation. Would definitely advise pads with a compound capable of handling the increased heat, as well as more frequent fluid changes. Also may require larger rims to fit the rotors and calipers. You may have to use a two-piece style rotor and machine your own hats and caliper spacers. Possible, but will require a fair amount of work and investment on your part.

Good luck!

 

[RavenTai]

1. Larger master cylinder from a different Toyota application to improve brake response. This should shorten the brake pedal stroke required to achieve high braking force at the risk of now making your brakes touchy.

will also require more force from you to stop.