In order to do front rotors you need to dissemble and repack the front wheel bearings so just be prepared.
100 series brakes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter anw0625
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Rotors are the same
My OEM pads have plenty of bite, but those Akebono get great feedback.
Toyota has the slide pin boots if needed, I got mine from McGeorge Toyota.
You'll have to do a bearing repack. The rotors are captive, so it requires taking off the hub. It's a good time to do the wheel bearing inspection and service, and grease the spindle bearing on each axle.
Cruiser outfitters has excellent bundles with everything you need minus the grease, rubber gloves, and lots of towels to do the bearings and make sure everything is done right.
Thanks for the info! My records show that the front wheel bearings were serviced 9,000 miles ago, before I purchased. I wonder why the brakes weren’t done then?Rotors are the same
My OEM pads have plenty of bite, but those Akebono get great feedback.
Toyota has the slide pin boots if needed, I got mine from McGeorge Toyota.
You'll have to do a bearing repack. The rotors are captive, so it requires taking off the hub. It's a good time to do the wheel bearing inspection and service, and grease the spindle bearing on each axle.
Cruiser outfitters has excellent bundles with everything you need minus the grease, rubber gloves, and lots of towels to do the bearings and make sure everything is done right.
- All 100 series rotor are the same fittment.
- Pads, we get what we pay for. But get ceramic for sure. I don't make part source recommendation. I favor OEM. Let the FSM (factory service manual) be your guide.
- See FSM
- Any damaged or shown as non reusable.
A few thoughts (long..LOL):
Brake disk (AKA brake rotors)
If rotors are within spec thickness ( fronts 32mm std., 30mm minimum). You can have machine turned on the vehicle. Shop use, OTV (On The Vehicle) brake Lathe. A minimum of about 30.75mm thickness is needed on front disk. Even if run-out within spec (front 0.07mm). The Parallelism (front 0.02mm) may not be. The parallelism of outer and inner disk surface, is leading cause of "bucking" from what I've seen.
Run-out are rarely checked these days. People just slap on new rotors. But with the fronts wheel hubs of the 100 series. This requires wheel hub/wheel bearing removal. Which you do not want done at just any shop. But even when brake rotor replaced, run-out needs to be checking and so does parallelism.
The factory recommends. Running-out each new rotor, in the 5 different position (lugs). Which we need to first run-out wheel hub (AKA axle wheel hub). Then place rotor on hub, at best (lowest run-out) position. Which on rear brakes is a little time consuming, but do able! We should then mark location, so brake rotor always place back on hub at same orientation. But with fronts, running out at the 5 positions to get best, is not piratical nor ever done. As it requires removing wheel hub and exposing wheel bearings and reassembling, 6 times. This would be a full days job on just one side!
My 03 restore project, was bucking like cazy. I'd never seen any vehicles braking cause bucking this bad. Run-out was withing spec. Hummm! But parallelism was not. After using my OTV brake lathe, they're now smooth as silk. No pulling, pulsing or bucking. Sweet!
FSM also states wheel bearing must be properly serviced (no play), before running-out or machining with OTV Lathe used. As do all OTV manuals.
So with front rotors. A simple solution and very big time-saver is the OTV brake lathe.
Brake pads:
Many good choices on the market. Basically you get what you pay for. Number one thing to look for is ceramic pads. These last longer and produce very little brake dust.
I've installed many OEM pads. The are a very good choice.
I've also installed many Akebono and a few DBA. Which also are very good pads.
One of the reasons we install the Akebono (they're a few variation) front pads. Was they came with inner anti squeal shim attached. So we would save on OEM shim kit.
But, I no longer install any pads without the OEM shim kit. Which we've two sizes shim kits in the 100 series front. IIRC 98-02 smaller and 03-07 to accommodate larger piston.
Anti-squeal shims (AKA Shims)
The reason for the inner shim on front, has to do with the 4 seals (1 on each piston) in each caliper. It an O-ring with squared edges. As we brake, piston presses outward (toward brake disk). This result in seal roll/curling. As we release brake pedal, seals elasticity rolls back seal to its flat position. This retracts piston(s). The outer shims have clips, retain them in piston. Shim is clipped to pads, with hooks inside (nearest rotor hub) and fitting kit on outside (furthest from rotor hub). With this pulling back or off disk of pads. We increase life of pad, get a more even wear, produce less heat needlessly, reduce brake pad sounds after release, etc.
Non reusable parts, are if removed:
Races are not removed, unless replacing wheel bearing. Always keep wheel bearing with their race (do not mix-up are swap from side to side). Flexible line is not removed, unless removing caliper (AKA brake disk cylinder assy) to rebuilt or replace. Fronts stop using a separate washer in 2000. When replacing caliper mounting bolts ( should IMHO), uses new bolt without the separate washer shown. If hub flange nut(s) in good condition, you can reuse. Just use a medium sealant (locker) on threads.
Factory recommendation, for non reusable parts list. But also rusty or damaged parts should not be reused. Which with shims most times are not reusable. Note in 2008-up Toyota FSM state brake caliper mounting bolts are non reusable. The bolts are the same as 98-07, but use a thread sealant. For which torque compensate by reducing, for lubed (sealant) threads.
Note non-reusable parts. Piston seal & boot, are not removed unless rebuilding caliper.
The bushing is replaced (comes with slide pin) if worn or removed from slide pin. We can remove slide pin from caliper, without replacing it or its bushing.
That's is interesting. Is that both the front and rear on all 100 series?
Probably worth it to just do the brakes and repack the front anyway. The wheel bearings on 100s are different from other vehicles that most shops work on and a lot of times messed up. The service records for my LX showed having the fronts repacked with new brakes at a Lexus dealership a few months before I purchased it, but I got them apart and found the locking ring wasn't installed correctly (both tabs bent the same way) and loose. If they didn't do the rotors at the same time that's a red flag because a new set of rotors is cheap and easy at they point.
Yes. Historically for all Land Cruisers.
