1-ton TRE Hysteer

[Isotel]

i know this isint the most "Hard Core" mod ever but i just wanted to share my project..

The Hysteer arms are done by a local person here in colorado and bent up at 20 Degrees.. The 1 ton TRE are off an 85 Blazer Part #'s off this site worked good www.pavementsucks.com/tech/steeringupgrade.php

The TRE's were $140 Thru Car Quest, i found them cheeper thru autozone or Cheacker but i went with the better ones.. I dont want any more steering issues!!

I had the Tubing Cut and Taped Localy and my Draglink was only like 13", the Tie Rod was about 35".. Taped for 7/8 18 Left and Right handed.. Cost was $65 for parts and labor. including tapering

The Tubing was .28 Wall, i think ID was like 3/4 or maybe the OD was 1 1/4

Everything is coming together good, except i had to send the Tie rod Back to be re taped, The Threads got Real tight as it went in and eventualy i couldint turn it at all without a breaker bar..

My steering is Saginaw GM and my Springs are Shackles reversed right up to the end of the frame with stock Spring mounts.. there should be no bump steer at all, I used a stock pitman arm (Chevy Impala) and had everything taperd..

 

[woody]

nice...not quite as beefy, but similar to the 4x4Labs arms I'm using...and yes, those 1-ton ends are suhweet!!

Outta have my "tweaked" drag link in this week....1-ton 7/8" thread on the passenger-knuckle side, 3/4" tapped for a 3/4"thread-5/8" bore heim for the pitman on my Scout box. (NO way to use the 1-ton end with a Scout box....zero clearance.)

working on a custom pitman idea now too....

 

[Gumby]

Very nice. That's what I'm planning on for the 40 since a similar set up went very well on the T-100. I do believe that those are 1/2 ton GM TREs though. I think the 1-tons are 1" thread. I ended up going with the SpiderTrax weld in inserts as it was cheaper than having them tapped locally or buying the two taps.

Looking for a set of arms now. Prices look to be in the $100 each range.

 

[HI^C]

about 85 and newer chevy 4x4 7/8" shank has a tierod with removeable ends, both left and right jam nuts and retain the same ends use, the one with the draglink/ex shock hole. These tierods can be cut to length and retapped, if you cut off the rh thread side you only need to retap that rh side. Cost are $10 complete tie rod at the local PNP, last check the jam nuts run $7 each, kind of a no brainer.

Chevy 1 ton TRE are a solid mount tre with shock hole, or a 1" shank TRE on the other end.

dodge and Ford retain the 7/8" shank tierod on the 1 ton solid axles, on all i have seen, and have both ends removable. Ends vary alitte between manufactures. Jeep also has a version of the 7/8" shank TRE.

The highangle DRAGLINK tre ends would be a only chevy application, others are bent or a different style.

Is your draglink lower then the tierod? can you flip the pitman arm over and spin the TRE to match. EDIT the taper on the pitman would prevent this.
Do you hit your springs? OR is the pic just given me a weird look.

 

[HI^C]

its also 1.5" per ft taper, not 7 degrees. there are no degreed tapers that work, unless custom.
well i guess its your own steering and your own life.

 

[Gumby]

Don't know why it never occured to me to just get a stock tie rod, cut it to length and retap the RH thread side.
Could have saved me some money in 1.5" DOM.

 

[Isotel]

Yea they Arent Actualy 1-ton TRE because they come off of a 3/4 ton Blazer, But I orderd some test Samples from Carquest for Actual 1 ton TRE's and found them to be smaller then the Blazer ones..

The taper i assumed was 7 degrees... Local Machine shop (colorado Quality Machine - Paul) Did the tapers and they are all perfect, he knows what he is doing!!

Anyway Everything is together and painted i will put up some pictures of the finished junk soon.. I Still have about 5 Degrees Play in the steering, i think its due to the Steering box, I think i will replace it anyway with a 4 turn box rather then the 3 turn i have now..

The Draglink is a little bit lower then the Tie rod. Maybe like 1/4 inch I could have put the taper out of the top of the Pitman arm but the "High misalignment" Drag link ends may not have misaligned enughf at full flex, plus less bump steer this way!

Steering stabilizer is needed but not Crucial.. i think its got more to do with the Bias Ply 35/15.50 Swamper SX's then anything.. All and all no issues..