03 LC100 Durham (2 Viewers)

[GabDags]

Finally got my hands on a 1 owner 03 LC100 and going through the maintenance items.

Any auto shops you recommend for doing work? The valve cover seal seems to be leaking, and watched the DYI videos/guides. The passenger side seems straight-forwardish but im worried about the driver side. Im not the most savy gear head so trying to see quotes around the areas. best quote so far was $500 without tax for both sides.

Also, i got the car from the east, doesnt have any major rust on the frame, some surface rust which i would like to tackel and not think about. Doing some googling and couldn't find any auto body shops that did undercarriage rust treatments. Any recommendations?

Thanks a bunch!

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

Do you have pics of the rust you want to address? I work on my own stuff so no mechanic recommendations, sorry.

 

[GabDags]

Do you have pics of the rust you want to address? I work on my own stuff so no mechanic recommendations, sorry.

I attached a couple of pictures, i was looking to treat/resurface

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

Looks like surface rust to me. If you can't use something like Fluid Film, I bought 6 cans of CRC heavy duty Corrosion Inhibitor, which dries like a waxy covering that is tough to get off. It's not a rubberized coating, so it will need to be reapplied every few years. But I like it as it can soak in while it's wet and seals nicely. I bought an 80 series that has a little crust on the under carriage and once I knocked off the loose stuff sprayed this liberally all on the underside and it has held up nicely. It's about $10 per 10 oz can, and I used 5 cans to coat the underside of my truck.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-06026-Heavy-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B07N1VXTVW

 

[GabDags]

Looks like surface rust to me. If you can't use something like Fluid Film, I bought 6 cans of CRC heavy duty Corrosion Inhibitor, which dries like a waxy covering that is tough to get off. It's not a rubberized coating, so it will need to be reapplied every few years. But I like it as it can soak in while it's wet and seals nicely. I bought an 80 series that has a little crust on the under carriage and once I knocked off the loose stuff sprayed this liberally all on the underside and it has held up nicely. It's about $10 per 10 oz can, and I used 5 cans to coat the underside of my truck.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-06026-Heavy-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B07N1VXTVW

So just go under the car, and go on spraying everywhere including the inside of the frame? Should you use a rust remover first/ wire brush before tackling it?

and yes got it checked out and everyone stated its surface rust, frame is solid. Just want to tackel it all, and not think about it.

Thanks for your input and help

 

[Hokie LX]

You should come to our monthly meeting tomorrow at Backyard Bistro. The thread is at the top of the clubhouse page.

I did POR on my LX 470. You’re welcome to check it out as I’ll drive it tomorrow.

 

[GabDags]

You should come to our monthly meeting tomorrow at Backyard Bistro. The thread is at the top of the clubhouse page.

I did POR on my LX 470. You’re welcome to check it out as I’ll drive it tomorrow.

Ill be there!

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

So just go under the car, and go on spraying everywhere including the inside of the frame? Should you use a rust remover first/ wire brush before tackling it?

and yes got it checked out and everyone stated its surface rust, frame is solid. Just want to tackel it all, and not think about it.

Thanks for your input and help

Yeah, mine was worse than yours, for sure, and I just knocked off anything loose. I actually used a pointed planishing hammer (basically a body work hammer with a pointy end on one side) just to break away scale, but I douby yours is that bad. I cleared away any dried mud and basically got down as close as I could to base metal. BTW, almost all of my "bad" area was from the rear doors back. So there wasn't a massive amount of area to cover. Anyway, once it was prepped, and I'm not talking about the surface being "clean" just cleared so the spray came permeate and seal, I then went crazy spraying as much of the rear area as I could reach. It's been a couple years now and I've driven up north a couple of times and see no degradation in the coverage. Most likely I'll take a pressure washer and wash as good as I can underneath, this summer, and buy another 6 cans and reapply. It will just keep building up and will stop the rust. Also, because I'm paranoid, I'm going to try to wash out the inside of the frame rails and use the Eastwood in frame sealer, that I used on a FJ62 project. It's a very good internal sealer.

 

[Hokie LX]

@GabDags if you want to poke through my 60 build thread in my signature you will see what I did on the frame to seal it inside and out.

I also used Eastwood internal frame coating which is great stuff. I found a pressure washer attachment on Amazon that has a free spinning tip that creates a reverse cone that is great at cleaning the inside of the chassis!

 

[uzj100]

The valve cover gaskets usually just need the nuts tightened/snugged up. We have 3 100s in the family and they all needed tightening and stopped leaking. Snugged up, do not over tighten. If more than that, take it to Jay at Renaissance in Cary. He can help you. I need to do the rust treatment on my 2004.

 

[GabDags]

The valve cover gaskets usually just need the nuts tightened/snugged up. We have 3 100s in the family and they all needed tightening and stopped leaking. Snugged up, do not over tighten. If more than that, take it to Jay at Renaissance in Cary. He can help you. I need to do the rust treatment on my 2004.

Was doing the job today. Tried tightening based on spec, then One of the screws snapped off clean. Had to remove the head again and redo it. Fun day. The gasket needed to be replaced not even tightening would've helped.

Let's do a group rust treatment session.

I really think the rubber spacer on the screws affects the torque spec.